Skezza

central locking seems to be straight forward according to a lot of people but ive not found a guide on the internet to suggest that. i doubt the wiring loom is already there so you'll need splice a cable off a perm live and a cable from earth.

there is, but ive not found like a definitive guide that has said its easy or hard to be honest

I too want to buy one of these kits BUT, mine is no central locking, no electric windows. I've not had my panel off looking for any disconnected wires but having seen yours that is what I am expecting

christ, im a lucky lovely person. My car has never leaked lol!

It's a cheap engine that's probably been thrashed to ****

Tragic tbh! The gear box is ****ed. Someone needs to save that car.

Yeah, Halfords definitely mugged you a bit there (sorry to say). eBay and scrappies are full of cheap alternators. I've seen reconditioned ones at under £100 so I definitely think they had you a bit there I'm afraid.

Sounds like you're almost finished with the fix then

Poor Lupo. 1 less beauty in the world ;(

Nice one

I do suggest approaching them, but as you can imagine, because it burnt out on your drive and not their forecourt, they pretty much have blissful ignorance so it will depend how they act. It's definitely worth telling them though, while I agree with Silver! that some car's have an appalling reputations for electrics, this does seem a little bit coincidental.

Ashh, it sounds to me as though he's still missing the adapter, so swapping red and yellow as you put it would not work, in fact I don't think there is a yellow on the OEM block (??? can't remember, haven't touched the OEM block in a long time). darvey, to sort your issue with the memory settings, I recommend getting the adapter PC2-69-4 despite the device coming with its own connector. This adapter basically standardizes the ISO block from the car so as the poster above says, you can just swap red and yellow. If you want to be clever, stick a multimeter on the pins, work out live, work out switched live, then bullet them up and switch them, but I recommend the adapter personally. Easier, quicker, and safer. Plus, it will sort any other issues you might have such as the disco dash which I had with my old radio which was essentially the radio being fully illuminated after I had turned my car off. Fixed by the PC2-69-4 adapter. If its a single DIN JVC, you should have no problem fitting the adapter at the back, even if it is tight.

Oh, okay. Does it keep the memory settings etc?

That is definitely the easiest option if you don't need AM. I've not heard of anyone getting any kind of improvement from the booster with regards to FM.Without it, you won't hear much on AM, but FM will be totally unaffected. If you already have the ISO-DIN adapter, that is all you need. I suggest buying one slightly better than a 99p job, simply because they can make a difference on sound quality, that said, I've not heard anyone complain about the 99p ones being bad. I didn't realise that JVC supplied their own wiring harnesses. Sounds like a right bitch. Mine has a specialist plug on the back of the HU but it comes with a converter to standard ISO block.

You shouldn't be getting any switched live from the rear of your HU, that's not how it works. The switched live comes from the block, but I don't suggest tapping straight into the block. Have you fitted the standard wiring harness? The PC2-69-4? If so, there is a blue wire that is unattached that you connect the aerial booster to. The aerial booster will also have a blue wire so they match. I suggest snipping both ends and adding bullet connectors because I found the original clips to be horribly insecure and they caused static. For what it's worth, the aerial booster signal separation filter is only really necessary for AM. I personally use AM all the time so I need it, but if you don't then I would avoid using it as it takes up a reasonable amount of space. I suggest the PC5-90 as your booster, not the more commonly used PC5-52 as that requires you to buy a second adapter. Couple that with the chance of an extension cable (I had to because the antenna socket was on the opposite side) and you turn the little space you have behind your HU into a rats nest and it makes it very hard to manoeuvre. Plus it works out a little more expensive. Going from the cheapest places PC2-69-4 off eBay is £2.62 PC5-90 off eBay is £2.47. In most cases that'll be enough, but if your antenna socket is on the other side of the head unit, you might need an extra 30cm extension, which is about 3 quid too. That is enough to get the booster fitted okay. If you follow the Halfrauds experience (and most VW forums), they suggest you buy: PC2-69-4, again £2.62 PC5-52, on eBay, £2.63 At this point, you'll likely have a problem because your PC5-52 is an ISO plug as used by VW's OEM radio, but most aftermarket HU's use a standard DIN connection. So... you'll have to buy the adapter, about 2-3 quid (i don't suggest 99p adapters). If you buy the adapter, and you can't reach, then you'll still have to buy the 30cm cable!! It comes to a few quid more, which is just unnecessary. That should just about do it. Let me know if you need any tips, I have quite a lot of experience fitting radios in a Lupo. Is there any desire for me to write a bit of a guide on it? I've fitted DIN and Double DIN, so I've come across most of the issues people experience. That said, my amp fitting and wiring knowledge is fairly limited, so I'm only talking wiring the radio itself. Edit: Of course, the alternative (if you aren't bothered about AM) is don't fit a booster, for that, you'll just need the ISO - DIN adapter I talked about in the second option. Plug it straight onto the aerial cable and into the back of your HU and you'll have FM no problem. Don't expect AM though.

Nice Walked right into that one.Pics with and without plastic surround. You can see where I've not been so precise with the grinder: Close up with surround. Again No surround. Bit imprecise down the right hand there. Better down the left but still not good. The little bit of plastic underneath the corner was from the plastic film that the device came in. I didn't peel all of it off lol! Nice big chunk missing there. So as you can tell, the surround for me is quite useful because it just takes the edge off those marks and masks the fact it was a DIY noob job lol Not my finest hour of DIY, but hey, it does a nice job and it's securely held in to my dash

I can get mine out slightly easier than that. I use an iPod pry tool, which just allows a tiny bit of movement, then once I can get my fingers under, pulling the device up and away releases it. If I just pull though it won't come.

Might buy a kit, seems like a cheap fun, mod

Well, my FP-17-00 was from Motorguard, a Birmingham based company. They are usually very good, I've bought lots from them over the years, but for this, it seemed the cage was not good at all. Well made, very strong plastic (as I found while angle grinding and sanding), but clearly the wrong dimensions. Very unsuitable if you don't fancy getting a bit stuck in with some DIY modifications. I don't mind making the modifications to stuff like that as the alternative is returning it and waiting (not really worth it when it only cost about £6).I do wonder though, because some companies like Motorguard and Liquid Ice are able to sell the FP-17-00 for cheap, when others are selling them for £15.00+. If Autoleads simply license the CAD design, any company can produce them for pennies but with that comes the issues of precision as seen with mine. If I'd got it from a more expensive distributor, perhaps it would have slotted in perfectly first time.

Was it an easy job?

If you are on a public highway, then there is absolutely no reason you cannot take photos. Otherwise you wouldn't be allowed to take photos of someone committing a crime for use in court. Demand a justification for the fine. If they can't give you one, don't pay it.

I hope you're going through insurance. If you were giving way to traffic, I imagine you had been stopped for a few seconds so the idiot probably wasn't even concentrating. Probably playing on their phone.

yep, 15 quid temp sensor fixed mine.

I also have a bottom of the scale Lupo. Anyone fancy doing a tutorial for this?

Despite, everything in my previous reply, I still prefer the look and style of the FP-17-00 over the others, especially those Universal Double DIN Cage's, which normally result in loads of metal around the outside and just look crap.