old skool Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 hi everyone, well after going throught 2 sets of tyres on the back i think i should fit these camber shims i have. i took the wheel and the drum off the other day to find that i need to remove the hub nut. does anyone know what it is torqued up to? its a 1l lupo so if anyone could tell me it would mint.jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowers155 Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 ill have a look for my auto data sheet for you later if noone come up with this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old skool Posted February 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 ye man if u can thats would be great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecvincent123 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 FT ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old skool Posted February 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 ^^^^^^ ????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty_82 Posted February 16, 2012 Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 With a name like old school I'd expect you to know the standard tightening rating of FT, it's universal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cooper_GTI Posted February 16, 2012 Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 I've never torqued up a hub nut. FT does the trick for me every time. Sometimes even RFT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty_82 Posted February 16, 2012 Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 RFT is used on parts that if they are not done up correctly could come loose and kill you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowers155 Posted February 16, 2012 Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 Auto data says to use new nut / 200nm Then below it says 50nm but ive never used a tourque wrench on mine just did it up tight if anyone wants ill post up the auto technical data sheets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecvincent123 Posted February 16, 2012 Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 FT is the only setting my torque wrench has, does the job. and yeh RFT comes into play sometimes aswell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old skool Posted February 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 (edited) but if u go to FT and crush the bearing then its game over. so thank you bowers155 for a good answer Edited February 17, 2012 by old skool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyBa Posted October 30, 2016 Report Share Posted October 30, 2016 Resurrecting an old post since I'm seeing conflicting info on-line. Can someone confirm the torque settings are as per Bowers155 previous post? My son has a Seat Arosa suffering from a "rumbling"... I checked for play in the front wheels and noticed that there was play on the nearside. Put the 30mm socket on and was shocked to find there was very little resistance to undo it. I tightened the nut to 200nm using theadlock. I thought I check the tightness of the offside and noted that seemed to be tightened to 200mn too?. There is a more constant rumbling now so I guess that the nearside bearing needs replacing. I will buy some new nuts for when I've swapped the nearside bearing as recommended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mobieus_uk Posted October 31, 2016 Report Share Posted October 31, 2016 (edited) from autodata Edited October 31, 2016 by Mobieus_uk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mobieus_uk Posted October 31, 2016 Report Share Posted October 31, 2016 22 hours ago, AndyBa said: Resurrecting an old post since I'm seeing conflicting info on-line. Can someone confirm the torque settings are as per Bowers155 previous post? My son has a Seat Arosa suffering from a "rumbling"... I checked for play in the front wheels and noticed that there was play on the nearside. Put the 30mm socket on and was shocked to find there was very little resistance to undo it. I tightened the nut to 200nm using theadlock. I thought I check the tightness of the offside and noted that seemed to be tightened to 200mn too?. There is a more constant rumbling now so I guess that the nearside bearing needs replacing. I will buy some new nuts for when I've swapped the nearside bearing as recommended. bearing kits that i bought came with new hubnuts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyBa Posted November 5, 2016 Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 Quote I didn't replace the bearing in the hub. I replaced the hub with one from a scrappy. The reason being that my son works away from home and I wasn't going to be able to get a new bearing pressed in on a weekend. Anyway I've swapped the whole hub with the one from the scrappy (bearing ran smooth) and the rumbling remains, quietens on braking as it did before. What I have noted now is mild "warped disk"...I've replaced them twice in 2 years. Also checked the bearing movement on the "old" hub and that seems equally smooth. I might be wrong but I'm wondering if the disk has been distorted whilst the hub nut was loose on the original hub?...ie the disk was firmly on the outer hub, but the caliper is on the inner hub carrier and with the hub being loose there was movement...Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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