Sausage
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Everything posted by Sausage
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I know but he's possibly putting a front subframe in the back with an engine.
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Can't help feeling sad about this one. There's still time to sell it on to me you know....
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Grease proof paper in between the adaptor and hub? Or a smear of grease. i tried copper grease once as used to have sticky wheels (no adaptors) on a mondeo difficult to remove and thought it might help, it made it much worse, copper, alloy wheels and steel hubs didnt get on. So dont try copper grease.
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Expensive? that's per strut mind. Is this for the rear or all round? Is this going to be fast road or built for competition?
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This guy in latvia will do them and a lot cheaper than UK ones: http://stores.ebay.co.uk/5-spacers?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 You want hub centric so avoid any cheap ones that arent.
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Anything is possible if you throw money at it, but a set of adaptors will probably need to be a minimum of 20mm thick to be safe unless made of steel will cost £260 a set and make your chosen "perfect offset" wheels now stick out stupidly far unless you are factoring that in already. If you cant find wheels in 4x100 then look at 5x100 and do VAG hub conversions instead of adaptors. I did look into 4x108 using audi bits but lost interest as was looking at running ford 13" wheels. But I'll stick with the Revolution RFX 7x14 in 4x100 that I already have that need refurb instead.
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Gearbox will be an 085 either the original one or the one from the polo gti (again he doesnt say enough info) so it will be a weak point and especially so if it is the 1.4 gearbox it will have a short miserable life. It's way over priced as it is, seen tidy 1.8T conversions for that money.
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Shouldnt you be asking the seller this question? You cant tell too much about the brakes as he doesnt say enough about the car like wheel size or brake mods, they are drilled and grooved but look pretty worn, if the wheels are 15 I'd say they are 280mm but he'd be best placed to answer all that.
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Yep, prob go 280mm at the front same time depending on what wheels I can get over them.
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Oh, I want your rear beam for my TDI if you go ahead and the price isnt stupid.
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I've wanted to see a rear engine one done for a while now, but I would agree that a GTI isnt the place to try and do this in. If you had done this previously to a base shell and knew what to do and not f@ck it up then I would say go for the GTI as well, but as it is fix or sell on the GTI and do it in a diesel with cheap tax on it. Who sells a GTI for £300 anyway?
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Get VCDS on it and read the temperatures there, if the ecu is reading very wrong temps from the sensor it will be throwing a wobbly, if the temps look about right then it is elsewhere.
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I'd say £2k at the moment.
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Take starter motor off and try it direct on a battery, there will be vids out there on how to do that, you can use jump leads but be warned cheap jump leads wont carry the current and the starter will turn slower than expected, just do it straight on the battery if in doubt. Here you go (might be crap havent really read it tbh): https://www.apexinds.com/blog/basic-bench-testing-starter-motor/?print=pdf just hold the starter motor body on the earth pillar on the battery and jumper the other bits with a wire and a spanner, but make sure you are holding it tight.
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Pics might help as it depends on the damage, if the frame is bent as well as the skin and your dent goes thru bonnet lines then you wont get it out to any satisfaction. You will make it look better but you wont remove it with plunger, puller, shutting it on various shaped lumps etc. Not that it isnt worth a well thought out try though. The problem is that a damaged vehicle often attracts more damage from low lifes so probably better off with another bonnet.
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2001-VOLKSWAGEN-LUPO-SPORT-TDI-BLUE-/232304272338 Mileage will kill the price plus people are dumping diesels now sadly hence a sudden spike of Lupo TDI on ebay so your price is very very optimistic.
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List it on here if you decide to sell it as I could also be interested as long as it is Y plate or newer.
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Same struts both sides or does it have an odd strut on the front? (have a peek under the arches) Defo looks odd.
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What code was it? It helps because you can look it up and narrow it down some more... If you have 2 keys try the other one for starters. Otherwise temp sensor is a good candidate if your temp gauge is reading off.
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Well whatever floats your boat i guess...
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LOL
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Christ, did the ****s working there have unusually long arms with evidence of knuckle dragging?
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Probably turbo but no point buying another until confirmed unless the time argument counts for more than having a spare turbo siting about if it isnt that. Ecu can kick it into limp modes which feel exactly like very little or no boost so you cant just assume it is tbh. Bought a Mondeo tdci with no boost years ago, compressor seemed all right for play, but despite that turned out to be snapped turbo shaft, that was a year old recon unit with 1K receipt, you must prime oil feed before starting engine on replacement turbo otherwise it will have a short life. Top end will need inspection if it got low on oil anyway before spending out.
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Get the codes read with vcds. Check static timing is right and that it hasnt jumped a tooth as white smoke is usually unburnt fuel so timing issue or duff injectors but can be head gasket as said above, you need to smell the smoke to find out which but that's tricky if it isnt starting. Take off the cam cover and make sure the injectors are seated right and cam lobes etc look normal. Remove turbo pipe and manually check the shaft for play in / out and radially and that it spins without obstruction. Compression test. Would be 2nd choice in the list but likely you wont have the tool and it will cost money. Edit: did your oil light flicker or come on at all on the drive home?
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http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=204001 ecu connections was his problem, unplug the big plugs do a visual inspection for green corrosion and plug unplug them a few times to clean the connections, but a few other things to check on the way too.
