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Anyone into arcutecture/design?


Tigz™
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If the garage is attached to the house, you might want to think about whether you're building a garage or a shell for a future extension. If the latter, then you could insulate and think more carefully about positioning of access doors and the level of garage floor. If the latter, then you would definately want to build cavity walls, even though it's just a garage

Fire protection is the main problem - if the garage is completely external to the existing structure (i.e. you're not knocking holes in the house's external walls), then you shouldn't have too many problems. A duuble leaf brick wall should be fine for the one hour(?) fire resistance required The moment you start knocing through (i.e. a door), then you need to be really careful to ensure you comply with the building regs.

Otherwise, it's just standard things like damp proofing (dpm, dpc, and I would argue for a cavity wall if you don't want a damp garage), how is the roof held up, do the walls need piers - really basic construction technology.

And there's also the planning regs for the maximum volume of enclosed space you can build without needing planning permission - I think it used to be 70m3 - but that was ages ago. If you want a garage plus some workshop space (i.e. 1.5 cars long), then this is a factor. Also remember that the most expensie bits of the garage are the door (insulated, sectional?) and the windows (i.e. if you're also adding some workshop space).

Other things to pay attention to are location of boiler flues on the existing building, downpipes/svps, manholes, gas and eletric metres - they all need be thought about.

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I could whip up something for you on autocad, solidworks maybe depending on what you want. If you could supply pictures of the house as square onto the front or side as possible i could draw a garage over the picture? with rough dimensions also supplied.

i spend all day everyday on the damn thing anyway.

Andy

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Ok.

As far as I can tell, if I want to avoid planning permission I need to keep the roof line under 4 metres and keep it off the side of the house.

I would like to build it without planning permission but within building regulations so if we have more kids I can join it to the house at the rear (I have more space to the rear I can build to which would join the garage easy enough)

Either way I want it to be insulated as I want to be able to use it all year around.

From ground to the gutter at the front of the house it is exactly 3 metres.

The line you see on the left hand side of the picture posted above would be at gutter level.

Sizes are:

Width 3.82 metre

Length 12.10 metre

High 2.50 metre

door width 3.08 metre

door height 2.15 metre

Is this pic good enough?

IMG_5631.jpg

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I rent it.

20ft, i should have got a 40ft one though lol

I'm gutted, we through a load of truck bodies away only a couple of months ago.

A week before I needed one!

was annoyed I didn't get any workers free with it though.

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lol. Nice. I might rent one and put it on my neighbors drive since the cnut keeps parking his shed of a "Pajero" right opposite my drive instead of on his drive...

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I'm having trouble with my ancient version of autocad so ive just quickly done this one up as a prelimnary illistration, sorry for the poor quality i'll try and refine it. i'll post it up when i can get my plotter working properly. lol

TIGZGARAGE.jpg

Edited by Toi gulp
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Take a look at the pictures on this thread:

http://www.avforums.com/forums/members-hom...mes-room-8.html

this guy, is doing pretty much everything you'd need to do to build a suitable shell for a garage that could later become a room.

Ask me if you want an explanation of anything in the images at the start of the thread - it's all standard stuff.

I would make two changes to the floor slab, though:

- install an anti-crack mesh - A110 or A120.

- I would get the levels with the dpc and the existing ground level just right so you can frame out the floor and put a suspended timber floor in when/if you want to make it habitable. This will give you space to insulate, run heating pipework or any additional wiring.

It also look like he's only laying what he calls a "sub floor" direcly on his DPM. This is v. odd (cheap, but wrong!). For a garage anyway, you'll need 150mm of concrete, with the said mesh in it. No point screeding on that if it's a garage - if you then put a suspended timber floor in (or even one using resilient battens) then you won't need the screed. Screed is cheaper, though. But I hate the stuff.

It also has the massive advantage of not needing you to wait for the screen you would otherwisde have to lay onto of the exisitng slab to cure - takes ages. Plus, I personally love the slight give of a timber floor - I hate walking barefoot on a solid ground floor slab - unfortunately, my house has them.

And, it you are having any drainage (drainage is expensive - but massively more so if you f it up and have to dig it up again, or have to dig other stuff up to install it because you never though it would be needed). If you connect to the sewers, you will need a building control insepction, but if, say, you want to lay a foul sewer run under the floor slab for a later toilet in the later-converted garage, then this would absolutely be the most cost-effective time to do it. Just cap off both ends for the time being. You would probably need a cheap polythene insepctio chamber just so you could find the burried end again. Also, if you are going to be packing cars on the slab which these pipes run in, better to bed them in *well compacted* pea gravel and then cover them again with the same amount, also well compacted before burrying. Or bed them in concrete and then cover in concrete. Not so much a problem with the pvc pipes nowards (although the joints are weak), but point loads (i.e. acar wheel) sitting on a drain is a bad thing.

Edited by dxg
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