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80k Service


Bubbles
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Well the little tractor is in need of its 80k service... can anyone tell me if this is a major service and whats involved?

Has anyone else had this service and how much did they pay? smile.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

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Im not sure but i dont think its a big service is it? i thought 60K is the biggy.

Just the usual i guess, oil, filter, pollen filter, air filter, fuel filter and a general check over of the car, brakes etc.

Brake fluid change (needs it every 2 years)

Has the cambelt been changed?

Price depends where you go, Seat will be around the £250 - £300 mark i would think, but a good independant, maybe a VAG specialist, would be much cheaper.

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Weve had a quote from our friends in Bletchley? who did the heater matrix, theyve quoted £180...

And yes the cambelt has been done

same as cardaft saids really it should have all been done at 60k (does histroy prove this?) but for piece of mind on that millage id be doing

oil filter and new oil (quality not the cheap crap garages can get in barels)

fuel filter

air filter (could go after market while your there?)

glow plugs (not cheap but will make a difference)

pollen filter (just below scuttle many dealers especially forget them)

and again a proper check of the brakes and suspension, id bet on at least 1 or 2 shocks being dead especialy the rear its a common fault and is only diagnosed when someone is in the back or you can feel the back end isnt as taught

brakes, especially behind of the discs both mine and mums have for some reason corroded on the back of the discs so check this on yours, if anything feels at all worn then replace the parts arent that expensive and the car will feel totally different when done

my car is only now on 18k miles and i had it at 8800 and did a service at just under 15k and it made such a difference then

wayne

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same as cardaft saids really it should have all been done at 60k (does histroy prove this?) but for piece of mind on that millage id be doing

oil filter and new oil (quality not the cheap crap garages can get in barels)

fuel filter

air filter (could go after market while your there?)

glow plugs (not cheap but will make a difference)

pollen filter (just below scuttle many dealers especially forget them)

Yep, but really the glow plugs are only for starting i think, could be wrong confused.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":confused:" border="0" alt="confused.gif" /> . But its not like spark plugs i dont think, they are only used when starting, and usually i never wait for the little light to go out anyway, starts fine without. Not a performance or economy related item.

Pollen filter could make a big difference to the fan speed if the current one is chocked up, i find they are cheaper from SEAT than a motor factors, also better quality.

and again a proper check of the brakes and suspension, id bet on at least 1 or 2 shocks being dead especialy the rear its a common fault and is only diagnosed when someone is in the back or you can feel the back end isnt as taught

Yeah shockers are a weak point on these i think, my 1.0 Arosa had new ones at 3 years old. One had gone really hard and the other was leaking. But my TDis seem to be fine so you might not have a problem. The little shpocker covers often drop off due to the bump stop perishing. So it leaves the shocker exposed to the elements.

brakes, especially behind of the discs both mine and mums have for some reason corroded on the back of the discs so check this on yours, if anything feels at all worn then replace the parts arent that expensive and the car will feel totally different when done

Yep ive found this too, mine wear fine on the front of the disc but on the back its quite scored and not used by the pads at the very top or bottom of the disc.

my car is only now on 18k miles and i had it at 8800 and did a service at just under 15k and it made such a difference then

wayne

Youve not done many miles tongue.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":P" border="0" alt="tongue.gif" />

Edited by cardaft
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What oil does the 1.4 TDi Arosa need? Is it VW 505 00 or VW 505 01? It states diesel engines with a pump injector MUST USE VW 505 01.

Mine is due for a change real soon. It says in the manual to change the oil filter every 100k miles....is that right? I wouldn't mind changing it now....as long as it's easy to get to.

Cheers

Steve

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I put castrol GTX magnatec in mine, it's about £30 so it must be good. The oil filter is an absolute doddle to get to, round thing right at the front of the engine, you just unscrew it and put a new element in.

I had to change my brake discs (and pads rolleyes.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":rolleyes:" border="0" alt="rolleyes.gif" /> ) for it's 1st MOT. It seems nowadays the pads outlast the discs on most cars

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I put castrol GTX magnatec in mine, it's about £30 so it must be good. The oil filter is an absolute doddle to get to, round thing right at the front of the engine, you just unscrew it and put a new element in.

I had to change my brake discs (and pads ) for it's 1st MOT. It seems nowadays the pads outlast the discs on most cars

Mine needs new pads and discs very soon, was it easy to do yourself? id like to do mine really.

What discs and pads did you go for and where did you get them from?

Cheers

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You could try German, Swedish and French for brakes?

I'm sure there is an even cheaper online mail order company that do them real cheap....can't thin of their name though...DOH!

Do our cars (1.4 S TDI) have a pump injector?

Edited by stevenb
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Hmm i can pick what country i buy brakes from confused.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":confused:" border="0" alt="confused.gif" />

French ones are always good wink.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

Erm ive heard that in PD engines you need to use a special oil, that i think it retails at about £40-£50 ish from VW.

But ive also heard that thats a 20K mile oil.

But i dont bother with that, i use good high quality oil and change it every 6K miles.

Its worked up to now!, 20K miles is far far too long to have oil anyway.

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GSF are a nationwide parts specialist firm for cars of them countries.....I bet you knew that already though...haha

It says in my service guide to change the oil every 10k miles. The service level indicator isn't flashing yet but it will be soon.

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Oh right, i suppose i did realise that different makes will be from different companies.

I might just go for originals. But ideally i want something good but not too expensive.

Well yes the service interval is 10K or 1 year whichever is soonest, but i like to change mine early.

My 1.0 Arosa gets done every 6 months since it does lots of cold short trips.

My TDi is usually every 6-7K, but i do usually do quite a few miles so i go by mileage and not months with that.

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Ok cool.

Is the oil filter easy to change then?

Can you change it from opening the bonnet or do i need to get underneath the car?

I'm sure the cylindrical filter looking shape I can see is the oil filter...but wanna check first.

LOL

I'd buy the oil filter from a SEAT dealership and use genuine parts....might even buy my oil from the dealership...sometimes they are very cheap to supply stuff like that.

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Ok cool.

Is the oil filter easy to change then?

Can you change it from opening the bonnet or do i need to get underneath the car?

I'm sure the cylindrical filter looking shape I can see is the oil filter...but wanna check first.

LOL

I'd buy the oil filter from a SEAT dealership and use genuine parts....might even buy my oil from the dealership...sometimes they are very cheap to supply stuff like that.

Fairly yeah, you pop off the engine cover and you will see it there, obviously you need to go under to take out the sump plug but the filter is on the top.

Its just the inner filter you bu, not the casing.

But i do buy Seat oil filters, just not oil, i dont really see the point, i just get a good branded oil of the right quality.

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Sounds good mate.

SEAT filter it is then......will enquire about oil but if too much money will get some after-market oil instead. wink.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

Thanks for your assistance.

smile.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

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I have a question to add to this thread style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

The next service on the Arosa will be at about 75K, so like an 80k service...

He had his cambelt done at 50ish, so I'm guessing it will be fine to leave it until his 90k?

He has also recently been having a smoke issue - if I rev quite high to take off quickly, he has a big drop in power and puts out a cloud of smoke? Should I be very concerned, or is this likely because he is due a service? He's completely fine the rest of the time!

Edited by lunalupi
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I have a question to add to this thread

The next service on the Arosa will be at about 75K, so like an 80k service...

He had his cambelt done at 50ish, so I'm guessing it will be fine to leave it until his 90k?

He has also recently been having a smoke issue - if I rev quite high to take off quickly, he has a big drop in power and puts out a cloud of smoke? Should I be very concerned, or is this likely because he is due a service? He's completely fine the rest of the time!

Yeah the cambelt should be ok till 90K, Depending on how long it takes to get there and how many years ago it was done. But every 40K or 4 years.

Hmm the smoking issue could be either spark plugs, have they ever been changed?

Could also be dirty fuel injectors, you can try using a fuel additive and seeing how it goes. Get good stuff though, not any rubbish or it will do nothing.

What kind of smoke is it? Black? Steam? i hope its not blue as then you have big problems.

You can also get some stuff for older/more worn engines which quietens them down and gives more lubrication.

When was the last service done?

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To answer all your questions:

Spark plugs were changed a year ago, when we last serviced him (hence me thinking, 'hmmm, might just need a service')

Will try the fuel additive one, worth a go anyway - anything you would recommend?

Its not blue, I'd be very worried if it was blue...its more just a mucky cloud.... Oh, and he will only do it in first, and will only do it once! He has little drops in power sometimes, but will only ever have this massive nosedive once, in first gear huh.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":huh:" border="0" alt="huh.gif" />

Last service was done about a year/10k miles ago! As it's due now, so just waiting for my dad to get back off holiday

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I got the discs and pads from my local Seat dealership, they were cheaper than PCS and they had them in stock. £106 springs to mind.

They are easy to change, no bleeding required. The calipers on the TDi are held on with normal bolts so a socket set is needed. The 1.0 caliper uses allen keys.

Unbolt and remove caliper, hang it on a piece of wire so you don't strain the pipe.

Remove pads and press the cylinders back in.

Remove No.3 pozidrive screw from disc.

Whack the disc with a hammer and it should drop off (it might be siezed on).

Then put it all back together with the new parts. Don't forget the wheel ha,ha.

Oh, tip time: Put a very thin film of oil on the inside of the new disc so it doesn't sieze on for next time wink.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> .

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Nope its drums rear and discs front (same as sport and GTi front brakes i believe)

Only petrol sports and gtis have rear discs.

Im going to whip off my front wheels later on today and see how my brakes are getting on, think they are a bit thin blink.gif style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":blink:" border="0" alt="blink.gif" />

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