Picola Posted October 29, 2006 Report Share Posted October 29, 2006 Howdo old chaps and chapettesAfter been away I came home to my mahoosive package, of my new suspension set up! Yay!Anyway, I asked my dad and he's gladly going to fit it next Saturday. He said I need to find out the torque wrench setting.How tight do I need to go? Tight as a mouse's ear? Or loose as....well anywayIt says the TDI has around 144 lbs per feet. Is this what he means? Cheers! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoopyLing Posted October 29, 2006 Report Share Posted October 29, 2006 It says the TDI has around 144 lbs per feet. Is this what he means?That's the torque produced by the cars' engine. The kit should have torque settings for each bolt in the instructions. eg this bolt need 100nm and this one need 80nms etc...Si. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teflon Posted October 30, 2006 Report Share Posted October 30, 2006 you wont be able to torque up the nut on the top of the strut because you cant use a socket on it becuase you need to counterhold it.the torque setting for the lower pinch boltsis 60nm and you will need to use new nuts and boltsfor this.and it's also 60nm for the strut top as well.make sure you get the camber angles checked and adjusted afterwards too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubya Posted October 30, 2006 Report Share Posted October 30, 2006 (edited) You'll need a 21mm socket welding to an open ended spanner, and a 7mm allen key socket on a ratchet, in order to release/tighten the strut tops. They bottom out as you tighten them up, so they need to be tight, but not wrenched up. The rear bottom retaining screw is held captive under load, so to release it you need to undo the top mount, then jack the car up to extend the strut (re-fit in reverse order). There's no need to replace the retaining screws/nuts unless they are badly rounded/corroded. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Edited October 30, 2006 by Dubya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picola Posted October 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2006 Cheers for the info guys, I'll forward it to him. make sure you get the camber angles checked and adjusted afterwards tooAye he will be doing that aswell, which leads to my next question: Where would I find the camber/castor angles?Why the hell didnt Haynes make the manual. They can afford to make a lawnmower one and bloody gypsy vans but not for the Lupo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teflon Posted October 30, 2006 Report Share Posted October 30, 2006 (edited) the camber setting should be 1 degree negative....if in doubt the settings are the same as the 6n polo year 94-99oh and you dont need a welded socket nut spanner bodge up job! you can do it with a normal 21mm offset ring spanner Edited October 30, 2006 by Teflon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoopyLing Posted October 30, 2006 Report Share Posted October 30, 2006 I just about managed to get away with a standard issue closed end spanner on mine - just gotta be patient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubya Posted October 30, 2006 Report Share Posted October 30, 2006 (edited) the camber setting should be 1 degree negative....if in doubt the settings are the same as the 6n polo year 94-99oh and you dont need a welded socket nut spanner bodge up job! you can do it with a normal 21mm offset ring spannerBodge it? You not seen the VW tools then? Besides which a closed socket is safer style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> Stock camber settings are 0.30 to 0.50 degrees. 0 toe in/out. 1 degree of negative camber on the front will scrub the inside edge of the tyre in no time style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> Edited October 30, 2006 by Dubya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picola Posted October 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2006 So we have a disagreement. Hmmmmm! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubya Posted October 30, 2006 Report Share Posted October 30, 2006 So we have a disagreement. Hmmmmm!Everyone has a different method for doing things. I've said how i do it, and what tools I use to do it. I've been changing shockers for years, and on many different cars.I've also given you the stock camber settings. They're the settings VW and most garages will set your camber to.If you choose to work in another way, or set your camber to another setting, then that's down to you... style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picola Posted October 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2006 Hey, I wasnt saying your figures were wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teflon Posted October 31, 2006 Report Share Posted October 31, 2006 (edited) Bodge it? You not seen the VW tools then? Besides which a closed socket is safer style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />yeah, i've got loads of genuine vw tools,and how would you counter hold the centre piston on the damper if you used a closed socket then???? or am i missing something?? maybe i've been doing it wrong all these years!in fact i've even got a vw jig for setting the suspension geometry up for a mk4 polo/lupoStock camber settings are 0.30 to 0.50 degrees. 0 toe in/out. 1 degree of negative camber on the front will scrub the inside edge of the tyre in no time style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />the camber setting should be between .50 and 1.50 negative on a lupoand the toe in is 0.10 n/p each side Edited October 31, 2006 by Teflon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubya Posted October 31, 2006 Report Share Posted October 31, 2006 Your clearly missing something...You'll need a 21mm socket welding to an open ended spanner, and a 7mm allen key socket on a ratchet, in order to release/tighten the strut topsRing VW directly and ask them for the camber settings... NO lupo runs toe in, and the stock settings on a GTI are 0.5 MAX. But hey, I'm not gonna argue... If you want to run a degree of negative camber and toe in, then go ahead. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teflon Posted October 31, 2006 Report Share Posted October 31, 2006 Your clearly missing something...Ring VW directly and ask them for the camber settings... NO lupo runs toe in, and the stock settings on a GTI are 0.5 MAX. But hey, I'm not gonna argue... If you want to run a degree of negative camber and toe in, then go ahead. border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubya Posted October 31, 2006 Report Share Posted October 31, 2006 i think camber settings are a matter of personal choice to be honest, whatever works best! a allways prefer a little negative.........Exactly. But you've told him to go 1 degree negative... Based on what? What you think a mk4 Polo should be, or how you prefer your car to be set? Should you not point out settings based on VW fact? - seeing as he doesn't know his ass from his elbow, and chances are, his diesel is otherwise stock..?I agree that a little more camber makes a world of difference. My GTI runs 1.25 degrees negative camber on the front, and 0.5 degrees negative on the rear, but I cut my teeth on the track, and I can live with the increase in tyre wear and bush stress. Does he need that when he's crawling round a roundabout at 25mph? style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teflon Posted October 31, 2006 Report Share Posted October 31, 2006 I cut my teeth on the track, and I can live with the increase in tyre wear and bush stress.me too! i've been racing mk4 polo's since i was 12 years old!i more recent years i've used a lupo for hillclimbs where i would set the front camber to 8 degrees negative for increased cornering stability, also i would normally adjust the rears to about 2 degrees as wellseriously though for a stock lupo the specfied setting is .50 to 1.50 negative, and also that's what autodata says too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picola Posted October 31, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2006 (edited) Exactly. But you've told him to go 1 degree negative... Based on what? What you think a mk4 Polo should be, or how you prefer your car to be set? Should you not point out settings based on VW fact? - seeing as he doesn't know his ass from his elbow, and chances are, his diesel is otherwise stock..?I agree that a little more camber makes a world of difference. My GTI runs 1.25 degrees negative camber on the front, and 0.5 degrees negative on the rear, but I cut my teeth on the track, and I can live with the increase in tyre wear and bush stress. Does he need that when he's crawling round a roundabout at 25mph? style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />Him is a sheAnd yes, I know f uck all, but thats why I asked. Edited October 31, 2006 by Picola Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubya Posted November 1, 2006 Report Share Posted November 1, 2006 Him is a sheAnd yes, I know f uck all, but thats why I asked. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Picola Posted November 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2006 Anyhoo, I rang a VW garage today and after alot of 'Eh's' (Carlisle thing)the guy said 0.25 for the right and 0.45 for the left. Thanks for the replies people Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teflon Posted November 2, 2006 Report Share Posted November 2, 2006 surely you would set the camber angles the same both sides?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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