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Hi,  first time on this forum.  I have a 2003 Lupo 3L 1.2 Tdi where the clutch was slipping.  The local clutch shop has replaced the clutch, but were unable to get the car to move.  I have transported the car back to my drive, where it has sat for many months untouched.  I am now trying to resolve the problem myself.  The car would not start in S (last Friday), but would start in N, but with no response from the accelerator, it would just idle.  Now, I can't even get the car to start in N as the green brake light does not appear on the dashboard.  I have VCDS, but I am a novice at using it.  Can anyone set me on the road to recovery?  Any help would be appreciated.

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Temp and abs easy.

the others sound like a plug hasn't been plugged in. Check the plugs around the gearbox clutch controller.

or perhaps part of the loom has been accidentally broken.

did the car run just fine before the clutch went?

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Is the gearbox actuator connected correctly to the wiring loom? The actuator has four connectors and two different connector types, so there are four possible combinations. The connectors have their own loom but your garage may not have known that. Otherwise the car needs a transmission basic setting, the procedure is here:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/5-Speed_Electronic_Manual_Transmission_(085)

Follow the procedure to the letter!

RAB

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by RAB
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Hi, thanks for the info.  I am trying to do a basic settings.  I have a new battery connected to a battery charger.

Clutch Travel Sender Adaptation:  I can perform this, the voltage for the G162 is 3.81v, which falls gradually (over 90 seconds to 1.89v) when I disconnect the electrical socket from the hydraulic unit.  When I reconnect the socket, the clutch cable becomes taught (ie there is movement).  I am then left with 3 fault codes (see attached file).  I can delete those codes, but immediately the one returns (the 01604).

Gear Actuator Adaptation:  The first field does not move from WAIT.

The green brake light no longer appears on the dashboard at any time.  Provided the ignition is on, I can move the gear lever from S to anywhere without needing to have my foot on the brake.  However, the car will not turn over whether in S or N.

Thanks

 

Log-YV03XTK-108468-17112020.txt

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6 hours ago, Adrian Waller said:

Hi, thanks for the info.  I am trying to do a basic settings.  I have a new battery connected to a battery charger.

Clutch Travel Sender Adaptation:  I can perform this, the voltage for the G162 is 3.81v, which falls gradually (over 90 seconds to 1.89v) when I disconnect the electrical socket from the hydraulic unit.  When I reconnect the socket, the clutch cable becomes taught (ie there is movement).  I am then left with 3 fault codes (see attached file).  I can delete those codes, but immediately the one returns (the 01604).

Gear Actuator Adaptation:  The first field does not move from WAIT.

The green brake light no longer appears on the dashboard at any time.  Provided the ignition is on, I can move the gear lever from S to anywhere without needing to have my foot on the brake.  However, the car will not turn over whether in S or N.

Thanks

 

Log-YV03XTK-108468-17112020.textUnavailable

When you disconnect the hydraulic unit, the voltage should drop immediately, not take 90 secs. I can't read your file but you certainly have a problem with the clutch. Did your garage install a new guide sleeve?

For the gear actuator adaption, is the gear lever in the tiptronic position?

The car won't start until you have succeeded with a basic setting. I also suspect that you have a failed brake switch.

RAB

 

 

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I hope you didn't pay for the clutch. The after diagnostics and post mess up repair will cost even more than a clutch at a vdub specialist. Bill them...

Yeah @RAB is right. The guide sleeve can cause the clutch fork to move slowly. I had the same problem on one of my 085 boxes. Oil leaks out of the bearing seal onto the guide tube. Which picks up dust then turns into a really sticky goop, binding the slider to the tube. Also makes the clutch (on a normal lupo) heavy.

Edited by mk2
More info :)
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mk2, RAB

Thanks both for your comments.  I did not pay for any labour on the clutch (but I provided the 3 piece clutch kit).  I am positive they would not have replaced the guide sleeve.  I thought I would mention the length of time the voltage took to drop.  It seemed strange to me.

Do either of you know of any vdub specialist who works on 3Ls?  Otherwise, I think I will be heading towards an Ebay listing!

Thanks

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Not local to you... But have you had a read of the vdub how it works guide thing? Most german car techs should be able to sort it, or at least find the source of the problems.

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Here's who I would recommend:

https://womautomotive.co.uk/

Near Stoke, they maintain a few A2 1.2Tdi's. They are one of only two garages in the UK where I would take a 1.2Tdi for transmission repairs. The other is Caffyns in Eastbourne; only one of their technicians is allowed to work on our cars. He trained himself on them!

RAB

 

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Hey @RAB, do you think he could pull the starter out and have a look through the hole to see what's going on? I know that there are bits/holes on the 3L flavour gearbox that are different to the regular 085, and am thinking that there might be some neat way to get access to the clutch release bearing lever. I've never worked on one.

If he could get to the lever/release bearing and guide sleeve around the input shaft, he might be able to clean and "lightly" lube it with some molyslip or something. What you think?

Transporting a car across the country on a flatbed gets expensive.

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No, there's no access to the clutch via the starter. It's just a normal clutch that's actuated by other means. If it's the guide sleeve, then it's gearbox out. It's always a good idea to change the guide sleeve when you remove the gearbox. It's a cheap part but only if you change it! Another thing you should do is make sure that the rubber plug at the top of the bell housing is in place.

RAB

 

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@RAB Is there a way of checking the clutch release bearing action- along the sleeve? Isolate the actuator? On a regular 085 you can grab the lever and "feel" it bite as you push on the lever that connects to the cable.

That sensor measures the in-out action like someone stamping on the clutch pedal; Is there anything in the 3L "system" that could cause it to engage slowly like he's describing. My best guess is that you're spot on, and it's the sleeve binding on the little plastic bit on the inside of the release bearing. Just wondering if it's possible to isolate the mechanism to "feel" what it's doing.

otherwise, yeah, gearbox out again... yup.

found the self study guide thing:

http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_218.pdf

pic of gearbox with that actuator thing (never seen one for real...)

IMG_2168.PNG

Edited by mk2
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You can monitor the position of the clutch with the voltage reading from the clutch actuator potentiometer, block 14, position 4. In D, the voltage should be about 1.90v and 4v when you press the brake pedal (clutch open). When you release the brake, the 1.9v value should be reached after about 1 sec., driven only by the clutch springing. If it takes 90 secs then it's gearbox out, I'm afraid.

RAB

Edited by RAB
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The other issue is that the ANY/AYZ has a specific clutch plate. Was the correct clutch plate installed? The clutch plates splines should also be greased.

RAB

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Thanks for your comments.  This might take some time, but let me get the bits sorted that I can, ie clutch sleeve first.  I can get this done locally, replace the brake switch myself, then revert back to you, when I try to re-do the basic settings.  At that point, if the 01604 error is still there, then I will get the car over to Womautomotive.  I am determined that it won't defeat me! 

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