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dgk22

Lupo 1.4 16V AHW problem.

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Yeah 1-3-4-2

Edited by mk2

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So i've started doing the swap and can't really see a way when i remove the dizzy, and to use the AHW loom and ECU where does the camshaft sensor go?
Maybe use the output on the distributor, not sure if signal is the same?

Edited by dgk22

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So, some updates, seems like the AHW works perfectly well without the camshaft sensor, doesnt even throw a check engine light. Even if it does i can code out the error as long as it works fine. Everything else seems to be bolt on. Will put a new crank seal with the ring for the crank sensor and looks like the AFH should work with stock ecu and loom. We will see in the next few days how it goes.

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Sweet

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Old engine is out, a lot of oil leaked out of the inlet manifold, clean like new oil sign that there is pretty much no piston rings left, also a lot of aluminium filings up in the head, even some on the camshaft position sensor, probably that block is done for... 
Any advice on "while i'm in there" repairs?

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Bit of an update, fired it up today all is well so far, gonna have to finish it up so i can test drive it. 
Any advice for the exhaust? Probably gonna leave the stock manifold but the cat is clogged up, since it's a 1.6 now, thinking about going to 55mm after the manifold and adding a resonator and a muffler but can't seem to find what size would fit. 

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Stick a bigger cat on from a golf or passat... or even bigger :) no loss of power and clean emissions.

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I was going to get a new universal cat an original one would be too costly.
Idles fine, but on petrol there is a bit of hesitation at 3k rpm like there is not enough fuel, ordered new bosch AFH injectors these old one's probably need cleaning and filter changes who knows not much point refurbishing them when the new one's are cheap. And the garage put the AHW throttle body on in because it was brand new. So now when i change the injectors i will swap that out too and probably fit a new cold air intake and get rid of the tube that goes to the exhaust. 
Otherwise on LPG runs fine so probably the injectors or the o2 sensor is crapped out. 
Anyway here's a pic of it in the bay.

 

83897548_813404712465962_8432689474151907328_n.jpg

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Buy a simple O2 /lambda sensor gauge that you can connect to the O2 sensor. Then before spending any more money, you can see instantly if the mix is running lean... Also works well with LPG. When I did LPG mods, you can tune them really well with a gauge in the dash. I made my own for £3 and used a spare plastic blank insert. Essential for every petrol car...

http://www.scirocco.org/tech/misc/afgauge/af.html

Is similar.

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Will do that, injectors were old from a car that hasn't ran in a long time anyway plus new Bosch ones are like 15$/piece might as well, changed everything else on the engine anyway. 
Now though new problem, look like the AHW exhaust manifold is a bit different the ports are taller and not as wide while the AFH head has short wider ports, so don't know whether to put the cast iron manifold or get a cheap chinese 4-2-1. Can't seem to find anything else for the AFH.

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Afh on LPG

Nice

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1 minute ago, Rich said:

Afh on LPG

Nice

It's a lot cheaper to run, basically halving the money spent on fuel.

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Which LPG system are you using? I can't see a vapouriser or regulator anywhere, just the injectors... Have you set the system so it switches over automatically when warmed up, from petrol to lpg, or just a switch? Nice :)

 

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Forgot the make, regulator is hidden bellow the coolant bottle for a better look, yeah it switches over when coolant reaches 30C. you still have a manual switch and force LPG start. 
Need to tidy up the injectors when i get rid of the air filter and put a CAI on it will move them a bit and make the hoses shorter and same length, don't know if there will be enough room to get it under the intake manifold. 
New injectors are here and got a AFH throttle body that i had to fix. One of the coils somehow was broken off, so it had unsteady idle. Soldered it back up put a few drops of glue on it to stay in place and gotta test it out.  
Don't know when because it's snowing and cant work outside. 
Plus having too much fun in my audi :D.

84075419_417334592409656_4140033214154539008_n.jpg

84111779_613090889255948_8833821050023182336_n.jpg

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So guys, what would you recommend for an exhaust system on this car. Anyone knows the size of the rear silencer? 
I managed to get a AFH cast iron manifold, because the AHW one has different size ports. Though it's cracked, still thinking if i should look for another one or get this one welded. The only other i found so far have cracks right across the face, not sure if its supposed to be like that? Because the one i got doesn't have that.

 

86232597_116903596426149_8730837178898186240_n.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

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First one is mine, it's cracked on the other side. But the second one see how it's cut is this a normal thing? I've seen a few AFH manifolds like that but mine does not have that cut. 
Edit: What do you guys think 50mm exhaust should be big enough. Looking at the 1.4tdi/1.7SDI system it will be bolt on and is bigger than the stock one. 

Edited by dgk22

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Well i tested it out, put the AFH stock manifold, extended the O2 sensor wiring, got the SDI/TDI centre exhaust and muffler brand new from Polmostrow polish ones, absolute pure sh*t have not seen worse made exhaust seriously sound like sh*t, rattles like sh*t, 100% would not recommend! It's pretty much like the boxes are empty no baffles or packing in them at all. 
The LPG system is Tamona Progas got it sorted out today, it was running lean. Now it's a lot better but i might have to change the injectors for bigger ones.
Interesting enough AHW electrons + AFH brand new Bosch injectors runs too rich and i thought the 200cc injectors wont be enough for the 1.6 stroked AFH, maybe timings are not the best so need to get it mapped but can't seem to find someone to do it or or at least to find a map pack for winols so i can poke around in there.

Edited by dgk22

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If you go for big injectors, you might get a rough idle. When your squirt pulse goes sub 1ms, metering is difficult... They're good for high RPMs though.

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I meant bigger for the LPG system, seeing how the AFH injectors are over fueling don't think i will need bigger ones.
To be honest 200cc are quite big for a 1.4 engine it's really strange it comes originally with such big injectors. 

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Maybe, who knows. If i manage to find a damos or a map pack for this ECU maybe i would be able to charge it without going with an aftermarket one. It quite basic works by map and tps there should be an easy way to calibrate a different map sensor to it so it reads boost not only vacuum :D . And maybe actually remap it. 

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You can just set a new level (MAP). If above a certain level, then in vacuum, if below, in boost. Imagine simply shifting the standard map down (on a graph), like moving the Y axis. Most MAP sensors can measure boost up to about a Bar and a bit. Else, you can trick it, by changing the ambient reference level.... :)

Using VCDS, you can measure ambient. Then plug in a bike pump and GENTLY and very slowly increase the pressure. You'll see when it flat lines, so that's the limit.

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Well as long as i find a map pack or damos because cant find the maps, easier done on diesels, on my audi i calibrated for a different map sensor easy enough. 
Not sure how it goes on these to be honest. 
Could just have it on petrol until it warms up and then switch to LPG as it's the main used fuel. Not sure if i can change timings when on LPG though.

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Most LPG setups allow you to set the ambient by connecting the ambient pipe to the filtered side of the air filter, so the mix doesn't go rich at high revs. 

If your system is 'electronically controlled', you can switch over to LPG after a programmable delay (so the ECU will think you're still on petrol). Or use a Lambda emulator. The way I setup LPG to changeover is just by using a 60c thermostat switch and a relay. It turns off the fuel pump, which depressurises after maybe a couple of seconds after which time the LPG is programmed to start working (open the vapouriser or regulator valve). Then you have a seamless transition. At the same time you can use relays to switch over fuel tank sensors to the standard fuel gauge and make the regular ECU think that the car has almost run out of fuel (so it won't throw any codes).

You can always move maps the old way by using resistors with the sensors.

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