Sarkie83 Posted August 12, 2016 Report Share Posted August 12, 2016 (edited) I'm part way through a cambelt change on my Arosa. However, how the hell do you remove the mounting bracket the engine mount connects to? They seem to be 3x 16mm bolts, but there isn't enough space to get anything on the end of the socket... Thanks Edited August 13, 2016 by Sarkie83 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sausage Posted August 12, 2016 Report Share Posted August 12, 2016 Polo 1.4 tdi but it's going to be very similar: http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/polo-mk3/power_unit/3-cylinder_diesel_engine/engine_cylinder_head_valve_gear/cylinder_head/removing_installing_and_tensioning_toothed_belts/ Special tools can be improvised... I'm guessing you have to adjust the height of the engine to get access to the mount bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted August 15, 2016 Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 i jack it up/down and wiggle it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarkie83 Posted August 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2016 (edited) This is turning into a total pig of a job... I managed to use a socket/bent pipe to get the bolts and jacking the engine up gave enough space to wiggle it free. Got everything locked using the locking tools. Somehow I managed to remove the old belt (The tensioner seems to be of a completely different design to the other PD guides i've see everywhere else). However getting the new belt back on - had anyone got any tips as how to get the new belt on? I was outside for about 2 hours tonight trying different ways..bottom cog first, then water pump, top, tensioner....then waterpump last...nothing seemed to work. Edited August 17, 2016 by Sarkie83 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sausage Posted August 17, 2016 Report Share Posted August 17, 2016 (edited) Assuming you are running out of slack even with the tensioner loose? Feed belt on initially only about 1/4 or 1/3 its width while maintaining tension on it as you go, in other words you are keeping it tight and minimising slack as you feed it on with your fingers. Start at the crankshaft end and leave the camshaft for last as it will be at the top and easier to get on (it's a bigger radius too). If you angle the last few inches up they get on the camshaft pulley easier. Once all the teeth are on then ease the belt home a bit at a time. If that doesnt work you might find some extra slack by taking up any slack in the camshaft and crank with a socket (with the locking tools still in!) 1st so you arent trying to drag them around with the belt in your fingers to get the last bit of slack available. That is probably as clear as mud. Edited August 17, 2016 by Sausage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted August 17, 2016 Report Share Posted August 17, 2016 You have well fucked up here. You haven't locked the hydraulic tensioner. You're going to have to take it off and put it in a vice, use a g clamp, that kinda thing. That is why there's a mini fork thing in the timing kit. Alternatively use the allen key socket of the tensioner to push doen the L shaped bit of it till you can slide the fork through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sausage Posted August 17, 2016 Report Share Posted August 17, 2016 I've not done one of these yet, but reading the manual now yes there's your problem, the tensioner needs putting back together as Rich said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarkie83 Posted August 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2016 20 hours ago, Rich said: You haven't locked the hydraulic tensioner. You're going to have to take it off and put it in a vice, use a g clamp, that kinda thing. That is why there's a mini fork thing in the timing kit. Ah...click moment! That's what the fork is and where you are supposed to put it to lock it. All the other guides/YouTube clips didn't seem to have the same style tensioner. Now it makes sense, thanks :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Posted August 18, 2016 Report Share Posted August 18, 2016 I did this on an ATD engine last weekend, it didn't have the good tensioner. Odd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sausage Posted August 19, 2016 Report Share Posted August 19, 2016 My spare BNV engine is like this one (i.e "normal"): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarkie83 Posted October 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2016 In the interest of closure - I put the old adjuster on and pushed it back down that way: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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