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My Car Diary

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Found 8 results

  1. Hi all, This is my first post on this forum so I hope I'm doing it right! I am switching my '52 plate Arosa to a cone filter. I understand that I will be removing the air filters from the box. I have also purchased a small filter: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Air-Filter-Oil-Breather-Cold-Small-Mushroom-Intake-Crankcase-Turbo-Car-Vent/163689109250?hash=item261ca19702:g:1XgAAOSwUYpc2nHv to go on a breather pipe. My concern is that there are multiple pipes going into the box so what do I need to do with each of them? Which pipe is the oil breather requiring the smaller filter? Thank you in advance. PS. I know that this will not benefit the car's power output. I only want it louder Also it's my first car so still a bit of a noob!
  2. OllieDewar

    Air filter

    This is my first post so go easy... So i've been running my 1.0 arosa without an air filter for the last week, mainly because i think it sounds great. But now i'm thinking about buying an aftermarket filter or putting the air box back on, because running with no filter is sketching me out. I've read that drilling holes in the air box, or removing the intake pipe from the wheel well to the box, will still sound good. Will this be easier/better than buying a cone filter?
  3. So I was getting a bit sick of smelling fumes especially from the shitty tractors that are on the road to work so I decided to home brew a cabin filter for the Loup and it seems to be working pretty well. its pretty simple to do. Here's a link to the Filter Materiel I used. Pretty much just cut to size then popped some cable ties around so the blower doesn't suck the foam out of the cradle i cut it a bit big so it would wedge itself in there.
  4. Having recently searched for a guide on changing the fuel filter on a 1.0MPI Lupo and not finding one I thought I would throw together this little guide based on one I found for a polo. Apologies if there is one out there and I've missed it Its not the hardest of tasks but sometimes its useful to have a few pictures and steps. - First step is to either jack the rear of the car up and support it on axle stands or roll the rear wheels onto a set of ramps / sturdy wood blocks. Though not 100% necessary even another couple of inches clearance will make this task a lot easier. - Unplug the fuel pump, This can either be done by removing the fuse in the fuse box, or unplugging it from under the rear seats. - Next run start the car up and run it until it stalls, removing as much fuel as possible from the fuel lines. - finally loosen the fuel filler cap to release excess pressure - Look under the back of the car just next to the read drivers side wheel (UK), you will see this little beast clipped into its bracket. - Give the screw a heavy coating of WD40 and go and make a brew whilst it soaks in - Unfortunately for me the screw head was well beyond functioning so I had to dremmel a new slot into it. (Remember to have a suitable fire extinguisher on hand when doing any cutting near fuel lines) - A good tip when dealing with dodgy / corroded screws is to use a rubber band in between the screw head and screw driver - http://lifehacker.com/5462520/remove-a-stripped-screw-with-a-rubber-band#c18998275 - Now the fuel filter is free you should be able to drop it down out of its bracket - Press in the small button on the fuel line clip and pull the fuel lines off the filter. Expect a bit of fuel remaining in the filter to flow out when undoing the lines. Not entirely sure what the white clips that came with the filter are, couldn't see a part like them in my fuel line fittings... possibly for a variant model or Seat. New screw and washer, ideally would have liked a hex head / allen head bolt but this will have to. - Finally ensuring the arrows on the filter are pointing in the correct direction (Forward in my case) push both of the fuel line clips back onto filter. you should feel a good click when correctly installed. - Pop the filter back into its bracket and tighten up the screw, I also applied a good coat of vaseline to the screw head to make it easier to replace in later years when I forget i'm not driving my diesel polo and fill it up with derv. - Plug the fuel pump back in, replace the cover, and tighten up the fuel filler cap, and give it a crank over, it should fire up after 2 or 3 attempts! Disclaimer: This guide is not an official guide, and though a fairly easy task if you are not sure about anything make sure you ask for help.
  5. So Im pretty happy with my Loop cosmetically, (at the moment) so I thought for the new year ill get some of the maintenance and service stuff out of the way so she'll be running smooth for show season 2014! I've already compiled a small list including: Spark Plugs. HT Leads. Oil Change. Brake pads &Discs. Oil Filter. And was wondering if anyone else had any suggestions on what else to change or upgrade?
  6. Hi guys, I have just bought a Arosa and looking at giving it a few new filters and replacing oil etc... I have a Arosa S, 1.0 2003. As far as I know I need the following: Oil Change (inc new filter, sump plug and washer) &10w40 semi-synth oilAir Filter ChangeFuel Filter ChangeBrake Fluid Change I have found these 2 kits on eBay anyone recommend, should stay clear from either or recommend another kit? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seat-Arosa-1-0-i-UFI-Service-Kit-Red-Mag-Sump-Plug-09-99-/310721217839?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item48586d852f http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FULL-Filter-Service-Kit-SEAT-AROSA-1-0-97-04-/290328690122?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4398f03dca
  7. Should be a simple job,I would have hoped. Have removed the two bolts but unable to lift off the filter box because there are various rubber pipes attached to it preventing this. I see that the filter box is screwed together but the screws are underneath and impossible to access without lifting off the filter box and turn it over. Your help and advise is required here. Many thanks OBS
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