pieface

175/50R14 I would say, or if you want a bit of stretch, go for 165/50R14

Youll need to spend a good weekend on the arches. Dont rush it. There is no point in starting the job at 5pm and rushing to get it done as you need to be home by 10pm to watch TerraNova. It takes time. A grinder would be alright, but you really need a nibbler for the tricky parts, and a dolly & hammer. Speedhunters put the glorified cars on their site, heres a few of my mates cars; Hux's KE70 (SR20 Powered) Dazes Kouki S13; Bens S14JZ These cars are used and abused, whereas the majority of the featured cars on Speedhunters are show cars, that rarely see a sideways moment, or a wall coming towards them. Bens S14JZ has had both rear quarters replaced in just over a year. It was also stolen and written off a week before the opening round of this years BDC yet with hard work, it was at the 1st round.

Steering wheel is 330mm sorry.

As above, only fair to put prices, think this is in the forum rules too. Means you cant bid people against each other. If you want to do that, stick it up on fleabay

How much collected? Not free this weekend as im in portsmouth, possibly the weekend after though. Where abouts are you based?

And if you read the original post, so does he

Mini Spares is your friend; http://www.minispares.com/Shop.aspx?ty=sv&cid=2001&title=Wheels~Nuts%20and%20caps

That is awful. The arch needs pulling rather than rolling the lip. If you pulled and flaired the arch propperly then it would look alright. One of he quickest and easiest ways to sort that is to hammer the arch back into a "standard/normal" arch, and get a big scaffold bar. Get someone to help you, what you need to do is one of you move the car SLOWLY forwards and backwards. Whilst this is being done, the other person needs to hold the scaffold bar between the wheel and arch so it pulls the arch rather than rolls the lip. This is my mates old BMW that we did; Final Fettling; As you can see they arent perfect, but after a skim of filler, and some sanding down, then a coat of paint, they looked awesome. You can see in the last picture that the arches are "pulled" as apposed to "rolled" This is how the car looked before we sold it; And there are videos on youtube; Pie

The above method is how I did it to my drift car. Drift cars don't ALL look shabby.

You still up for a straight swap? I own a 1.4S

The job hasn't been done properly then. If you cut the arch, then you need to roll/bend the lip left, otherwise as Staffgfx said you will be left with a sharp egde. Heres my step by step guide; Mark two lines on the panel of the wheel arch with a foil marker pen. Use red (unless the panel is red) to mark the upper line where you will fold the wheel arch. Use blue (Unless your panel is blue) to mark the trim line about 1/2 inch below the fold line. Make cuts every 4 inches from the lip of the wheel arch up to the cutting line. A hacksaw or nibbler works best for these cuts. This makes it easier to trim the wheel arches as they are divided into approximately 4-inch sections. Cut away the area below the cutting line with a pair of hand nibblers. Be sure to follow the curve of your cutting line. File away the sharp edges using a metal file or a rasp. It doesn't need to be perfect as this will be folded away out of view. Line up the nose of a pair of pliers or mole grips with the folding line so they can pivot on it. Pull down and push the handle of the pliers away from you. This will cause the nose to pull towards you and dig into the fold line, making a sharp crease. Bend the panel to 30 degrees for the first bend. Work your way around the arch. Start again from the beginning and work your way around bending it another 30 degrees. Hammer along the wheel arch after you reach a 90 degree angle. Place a chisel on the inner side of the fold line where you are hammering to make a sharp fold. Smooth out the imperfections with the hammer. This does work better if you have the correct tools, as in a dolly and hammer, but I have done it using a chisel, so it works. Follow this, and you will ace it. Pie

Just read this thread from start to finish. What ECU are you using? Is it a DTAfast Pro S60? I've been looking at putting Throttle Bodies on my 1.4S just to give it a little more umph and a nicer sound. Did you buy the Jenvy set up directly from them, and if so, how much money was it? Also, what else was needed for the conversion? I noticed that you have a very clean, and spacious, engine bay, what would I need to remove/relocate? Cheers in advance, Si

GLWTS but I think you will struggle to get that much for it. I struggled, but finally sold my 1293 for £3000 and that had a full strip down rebuild replacing any panel that had any rust, it also have over £1000's worth of engine and gear box in it, including s/c c/r box and a DCOE40 weber. It was rolling roaded nd got 88bhp at the wheels. Lower your price, and you'll have some interest.

My old mini at the ring; and at MITP

PM Bikerz, he said his mate has it, which reminds me I still need mine hooked up. Maybe he can sort a weekend out when we are all free.

No, I used a boss adaptor for the wheel. If you buy both the wheel and boss then ill chuck in the adaptor for free. EDIT: Just found a pic from when i bought it;

or parcel2go or Pacelmonkey OR if you have a computer, or access to the internet, im assuming thats most people who post on here go here; http://lmgtfy.com/?q=uk+couriers Not that hard

PM'd

Just looked at mine and the one is bent

Right, got a few bits left over from the S13 that need shifting so here goes; Quick Release Steering Hub; Was never fitted to the car, has been sat on my shelf for months now, so never used. Silver in colour, snaps nicely (don't get your finger trapped, it hurts!!) £40 posted Steering Wheel; 350mm or 13" wheel. Dish is aprox 3inches. Not had much use, comes with bolts. Suede in good condition, doesn't have a horn button. £40 posted Luke 4 point harness; Now, I'm not desperate to sell this, but for the right price, it will go. Its a Luke Pro 575 3 Inch Harness Its a 4 point Luke Harness. It has the option for a 5th strap (in the buckle). It has the aircraft style release, and is the most comfortable harness I have ever owned (including Luke, Willans, OMP and the DW ones). Its had approximately 3 months use, and if I have them, which I think I do, then the eye bolts will be included. These sell brand new for £160.20 (INC VAT) --> http://www.demon-twe...rness/1755/1411 I'm asking £120 POSTED. Now for the boring bit; NO DIBS - CASH SELLS (BANK TRANSFER PREFERRED) NO CHEQUES. MAINLAND UK POSTAGE ONLY IS STATED - IF YOU WANT IT POSTING ABROAD THEN PM ME. IF THE MONEY IS IN MY ACCOUNT THE ITEMS WILL BE SENT THIS WEEKEND (I WORK AND THEREFORE SATURDAY IS THE ONLY TIME I HAVE TO POST THE ITEMS). ALL ITEMS WILL BE SENT RECORDED DELIVERY, SO BOTH YOU AND I KNOW WHERE IT IS. Any questions, please ask. Pie

Can you stick a pic up please? Where are you located?

Anyone??

Location?

Basically the panel that goes around the headlights and indicators and the grill. It's the panel above the front bumper

How desperate are you for them? I'll be taking mine off soon, just need to buy a fudge wheel.