lupoluke

Buy a new one, there not very expensive from the likes of euro or gsf

I would say 195 45 15s, no strech but they look right, if you really have your heart set on strech 165 50s will be your best bet.

I would say it was priced a little on the high side if I'm being honest, but it's worth what some one will pay. Also stage service history, cambelt ect that always helps.

The pipes should only really have oil vapors coming our of them, if oil is literary pissing out of them, chances are you have a blockage in the CCV system, it's been a while since iv been near a Lupo but follow all the pipes back and they should lead behind the back if the block to a black box. Remove that box, there's 3 6mm Allen bolts IIRC, clean it all out, will probably be blocked with oily gunky sludge. Refit it all and see if the oil has stopped spitting out of the pipes. It's been 4 years so sorry if its a little vague but it should point you in the right direction. Don't forget to update the thread with your findings.

Well it slots in the block but it is driven by the cambelt, get a new belt and tensioner done while you have it all off.

On the cambelt.

To get the most out of a goosed head gasket coupled with removing the thermostat, or a faulty fan switch / wiring. A bit of a Barry thing to do tbh

Use the search function (top right) this has been coverd a bazillion times lol It's easy enough to change if you know how to use a spanner, can get hold of them from any decent motor factors or euro car parts ect, get some coolant too .

Thermostat, have a search.

What he said plus, if you would have kicked off and threatened to complain to VW head office, or leave them bad CEM about them leaving your car in secure and open to the elements you would have got loads of free **** lol

Check your servo pipe hose for splits, but it sounds like you need to calibrate your TB with vcds, how ever it will self learn after a while how many miles you done since you have had it off. Disconnecting your battery for 20 mins then running it may speed up the process.

From what I can remember on my tdi the thermostat is after the bottom hose, I haven't checked to see which way it flows or if it comes our of the top house when cold but it feels like it does, before I blocked the bottom half off it would take an age up warm up and struggle to maintain constant running temp with heaters on full whack, and that was with a new stat, blocked the bottom half off problem solved, also if you have an egr delete take it off this also improved my warm up time. Please note this is a tdi.

Some imaginative use of tinfoil can help speed that up, my tdi warms up in 2-3 miles compared to the 12 when I first got it.

Yes 1-4 from the left as your looking at it from the front.

Seen this tonight on the way home from work, was near Chester at About 5.15 PM Lowered on black rims, with tinted windows. Anybody off here?

Piece of piss, have a search.

I'd say your thermostat was partially stuck open, there only peanuts to replace, does the temp gauge drop when your driving.

If it was me I would do everything, ie valve guides and get the head skimmed as well, some might say it's overkill or it doesn't need doing, but the heads off so why not. Also are you using a valve spring compressor, or one of those crappy hand push things, the right tools will make all the difference, a dab of grease can aid fitting the Collets too.

It appears to be the same principle as the 6n2, but motor factors either do not know or are to lazy to check, and just supply the one listed when you give them your reg. So I assume you have a sport, which means the off side ball joint is essentially a near side ball joint on lesser models, so when the car is took an "independent" garage they phone the parts guys and they send the correct part listed for the car on the lesser models, not your sport. But more often than not the part will be thrown on and no one will give it a second thought, untill it's scrubbing through tyres that is. I have come across this a few times since I figured it out and judging by the info you have got off etka it's the same case on the lupos. Glad you got it sorted dude, motor factor places piss me off with this lol.

The 6n2 does have a slightly different set up than a Lupo, so the different ball joint doesnt surprise me, but I was more referring to the principle. May be this should be stickied, could save some one a head ache and some pennies and tyres . How did your old one look when fitted, mine was so ill fitting I don't know how a garage let the car go, (the bolts that hold it on was fouling the hub.

I would imagine so, im not to familiar with the sdi.

Go In to vcds and see if you can activate / switch on cruise, if you can then i would have a go wiring it in. I know the mk3 golf tdi had cruise and they wasn't a PD.

I just re read your post, see the following info I put on club polo, it may possible relate to lupos you would have to check. Let us know how you get on. Recently bought a 6n2 from a member on here, and it was pulling to the left slightly and wearing the tyres out on the inside edge. No biggy i thought, thinking the tracking was slightly out, how ever i got it on the ramps for a quick check over and it appeared the wrong ball joint had been fitted, as it was leaning the wrong way and one of bolts was fouling the hub and was actually bent. I'm not holding a grudge against the guy off here as he was genuine enough and the work appears to have been carried out before he got it, how it passed its mot i will never know tho . Any way orderd a new ball joint and got it delivered, pulled it out of the box to find it was the exact same, even had an L stamped in it for left, phoned euro up to make sure he sent the right one but all was good which left me scratching my head for a while. Luckily i work at a vw dealership, so went on the workshop manual for this car and it appears they had 2 different ball joints for these cars depending on 13 or 14 inch wheels from factory due to differences in the hub and the need for different caster angles ect. A quick look on etka shown the exact same part numbers but swapped around. (i will update this thread with genuine part numbers in the near future) So basically 13 inch wheels from factory requires N/S ball joint fitting to the N/S on the car (ECP part # 617440430) O/S ball joint fitting to the O/S on the car (ECP part # 617440440) 14 inch wheels from factory requires O/S ball joint fitting to the N/S on the car (ECP part # 617440440) N/S ball joint fittiong to the O/S on the car (ECP part # 617440430) Hope this saves someone alot of time and leg work

There different and at different angles to provide the right geometry. Why are you changing both.

If you do alot of milage, especially motorway milage go for the tdi, still nippyish, effortless on motorways and get great mpg, not to forget bulletproof reliability. If you only do short journeys, or If you are an official B road blaster get a sport. There's pros and cons for the both, just depends what you want from the car.