northwick

Funnily enough, VW make and stock so many of these clips that they will be willing to sell you some For the part number look you need someone with ETKA (or the dealership might be able to help). ETKA used to be online (right up until a couple of days ago on some dodgy Russian translation but its gone down now).

Thanks Foxy. Do you reckon I'll be able to sort it without stripping the front end off the car? If so would you go from the bonnet and down up from underneath and up?

When I press the button on the dash it lights up and the revs rise in anticipation but the compressor doesn't start. I've replaced the relay and its the same problem so I'm looking for other wiring problems. I still want to fix this irrespective of the aircon to be honest. I'm just hoping that they may be connected so that I have a lead (no pun intended) in my aircon problem. So, please don't take offence but I'd like to keep this thread to the questions above (unless you know exactly what is wrong with my aircon? )

As you might have seen I've got an aircon problem. When I've been looking around for broken/trapped wires today I noticed this: The bit on the right is the radiator fan. The wiring that comes in from the top of the picture and then to the right into the fan blades wasn't originally like that (I just moved it there for this photo) but the relays/switches/connectors/things on that rusted metal bracket were just flapping around not secured by anything. With enough momentum they could interfere with the fan so its definitely not right. Three questions: 1. Does anyone know what the things are that are attached to the rusty metal bracket and what they do? 2. Where should they be secured to? I presume the metal bracket is supposed to be screwed/bolted to something? 3. Depending on the answer to 2, will I need to strip the front of the car in order to reattach it to its rightful place? Cheers for any help. I'm wondering if this will be the source of my aircon problem. Jon

No but I haven't actually checked whether the 'fuse' is broken under that cover yet. I'll be doing that tomorrow. My old relay looked fine. Gonna investigate a bit more tomorrow by swapping them round and seeing if its exactly the same effect and checking that the radiator fan comes on with them both.

What part number relay have you used? Maybe its not the right one? There are several ones with the same numbers but a different letter suffix (as per here: http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=53585&st=0&p=662565&%29)

I'll keep my eye on this, given we have exactly the same aircon problems and have both tried to replace the relay. My aircon specialist reckoned that if a new relay didn't fix it then it would probably be a broken/melted wire somewhere. A broken wire would cause a short circuit perhaps and therefore possibly the symptoms you describe? Was your old relay showing signs of water ingress?

But if there's a gap can't the trumpets pull in unfiltered air?

Thank you. You must have to get that snug up against the trumpets for it to work effectively?

I've always wondered if/how the air gets filtered?

Passenger side sill --> Up towards passenger side seatbelt mounting point (underneath the cubby hole). If you are looking for a leak see here: http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=15734&view=findpost&p=202723

Best Top Gear episode for about 5 years. Looking forward to seeing the Senna film.

Cheers for the reply. The picture above is the struts with the bumpstops placed as far down as I can get them. The Weitec is top and FK beneath. It shows the extra length of thread 'available' on the FK. When I dismantle the bumpstops I'll probably have a better idea? Hope so! Jon

£300 is what you would pay a 'normal' person to paint correct etc. a 'normal' car.

With the £35 road tax it depends on your insurance I suppose. If you can get them to do you a policy that acknowledges you have two cars but won't be doing any more miles and therefore discount it heavily it will work.

I haven't gone to the trouble of finding the 'going rate' so what are you thinking its worth?

Bloody ETKA! Thank you though - its good that you replied or I'd have been fitting it like ETKA I did wonder about whether or not I had 6 pushed far enough down on the strut. The picture I took shows the difference in the amount of thread when 6 is pushed as far down as I thought possible on the strut. The Weitec is the top strut and the FK the bottom one. The difference in the length of strut above 6 means that I couldn't get enough thread to do the nut up on the Weitec. Do you need to rotate 6 so that it fits over the strut in a particular way? How do you take the 8,5 and 6 assembly apart?

I had FK AK coilovers on my GTI. I saw jon273403469.0 had some Weitecs for sale. I've fitted the fronts no problem. I'm struggling with the rears. When I took the standard dampers off I reassembled in reverse just with the FK dampers. It went back together no problem. I've tried to repeat the process for the Weitecs but came across a problem doing that. The thread at the top of the strut was too short! I couldn't get all the mounts, plates and rubber things in the same way and still get the nut on the top. Majorly confused I went onto EKTA: Now... that doesn't resemble what I had on the car when I got it (or what I subsequently decided to run with my FKs). I'm assuming that items 8,5 (hidden) and 6 (torn at the bottom) are what I have on the strut in this picture: I'm also presuming that 10 is a black softish rubberised item? Although its called a bearing ring on ETKA? If so, I had one of those between the mount (8) and the mount point on the chassis then another one above the mount point and below the plate (11 on diagram). Item 4 sat half way above the mount point and half way below it so that it kind of half went into both of the 10s. ETKA indicates that this was wrong and there should only be one above the mount point so that 10 should be in contact with the mount point? Running with only one 10 will mean that there is enough thread on the Weitecs to get them to fit so it seems to make sense. So... Q1 - are my assumptions on parts 8,6,5 and 10 correct? In particular is 10 a black softish rubberised device that I presume is to isolate the suspension from the chassis slightly? Q2 - assuming my assumptions are correct does everyone else run with just one of 10? Q3 - my 6 is torn. Can I just order replacement 6s and add them to 8 and 5 because to me it looks like they come all as one? Thanks in anticipation.

Its only two plug fittings. They both clicked in so I'd like to think so.

Don't get your hopes up too high. After looking at this (http://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=53585&st=0&p=662565&) and this (http://abella.net/vw/acrelay.shtml) I replaced the relay and its made no difference. Although mine showed no signs of ingress.

An independent place that is round the corner from me. Cheers for that - can rule that out. Wonder if theres a way to test if the new one is working? It is strange that it has affected the behaviour of the problem.

// Thread resurrection alert // I had the exact same symptoms as above (AC switch illuminating, revs picking up but no compressor kicking in). I took it to an aircon specialist and he checked a few things including the system for leaks etc and believed that it was an electrical fault and likely to be the fan control module so I bought one (part number 1J0 919 506 K) off Lupoboz. Fitted it today (1J0 919 506 Q was original part and looked intact - no signs of water damage) and now the revs don't even pick up. No fuses have blown though as in John's case. So... I have three options 1. The new part is DOA 2. The new part isn't the right one (K not Q) although evidence above is that K supercedes Q 3. The problem is elsewhere What would you do next? How can I rule out 1 and 2? The aircon specialist said he had seen a problem like this before on a VW so ordered the part as all signs pointed towards it but it made no difference and it turned out to be a broken wire.

Found it today. Its behind/underneath the left headlight. Think easiest access will come from removing front left wheel arch. Will do it when I put my Weitecs on this weekend.

This was what I was trying to say, yeah. I prefer the Rainsports but the T1Rs I inherited were towards the end of their life so it wasn't really a fair comparison.

I've recently had a few different sets of tyres on the GTI and I wanted to take the opportunity to say the following: I took worn (down to the wear bar but evenly) T1Rs off and temporarily replaced them with Nankangs that weren't brand new but had plenty tread left and had worn evenly. The T1Rs were good in dry and wet conditions even in their last miles but the Nankangs were absolutely horrendous. If I'd have had to change direction suddenly at any speed I would have understeered straight to the scene of the accident. I swapped front to back so to see what the effect was like and barely (if at all) legal Michelins that were on the back gripped by velcro in comparison to the Nankangs on put on the front. Then as soon as I put new Uniroyal Rainsport 2s on the car it gave me a real feeling that I could actually manoeuvre round something if I had to. I genuinely believe that if insurance companies thought they could properly monitor it, I reckon they would adjust premiums according to quality of tyre, it really is such a significant variable. So... basically what I'm saying is 'get good tyres, they can stop you having a crash.' Does anyone else have any experiences like this (or otherwise?)