mk2

You are 100% correct. In fact each bolt should be screwed in and out of its corresponding hole a few times to make sure that threads run freely (lots of oil)- so when torquing everything down, they all have the correct torque. Oil under each seat also helps for the same reason. But there is a counter argument that says that it's irrelevant because when you use stretch bolts, the final pull on each bolt is exactly the same, as they stretch at the same limit (or should). So an extra half turn or less wont make any difference.... all to do with Young's modulus and that (from school...).

There was a silver Gti in Aberdeen a few months back. Can't remember if it sold or not... But being as far away from civilisation as you are, you may need to travel to find a good'un. I did a 6h round trip to get my first SDI. Still almost mint a few years later.

Benvenuto to club lupo! pics of car? Have you serviced the gearbox and changed the balance shaft timing chain?

Post the latest MOT advisory list Price is about right, maybe a bit higher round here (reading area).

Can you id the engine dressing cover you have? Part number somehwere? Then if you put that in the system, it should come up with a pic of that bit of p,astic and any bits that go with it- in theory Oh, and any other dub models that might use it.

He's in a place called Newdigate apparently. About an hour from me here in Reading.

...7013C is for left hand door, right hand drive cars. You can keep the existing locks and keys 😀 But it could just be one of the door modules that's messing you about. There's a Youtube vid somewhere showing how to change door locks on golfs/boras etc. Just realised, I made a mistake- not ...014G, as that is for cars without central locking. Look at the parts diagram and description and you'll see what I mean....

Potholes are the real problem... saying that, it'd take one hell of a wallop to shear an 8mm 8.8 grade steel bolt. And the rubber bush would still be doing its job cushioning any shocks. With so many of us interested, I'm guessing that the starting price will be well over 1k.

Yeah search on here... http://www.oemepc.com/vw/main_group/markt/RDW/modell/LU/year/2005/drive_standart/441/hauptgruppen/1234567890/lang/e

Yes, it's the switches that sense if the doors are locked or not. Every, and I mean every VAG car from about '97 to '08 ish has central locking problems. Or will have at some point. You need a new lock switch assembly, probably for the driver's door. Ebay.... new about £15. Bora or mk4 golf is usually the cheapest. 6X2837014G

Ok, i hate telling everyone my tricks, but I've figured out how to drive it home. It has an MOT after all. All i need is a 2mm steel strap about 40mm wide and about 250mm long. My rechargable drill, 8.5mm drill bit, a couple of washers and an m8 nyloc nut and bolt, about 100mm long. Tada! just a question of price now. Costs after buying would be- Interior probably about £300 ish. Original wheels about £150 for a set. Dunno what else is missing. Guess maybe another £100 of bits. Then fill, rub down and respray. Why oh why, black? It's the most difficult colour to get mint. Pull all the suspension, weld, grind, blast and powdercoat, then waxoyl £120. Perhaps 100h of work. A lupo gti as new again worth maybe £4.5k? Other bits, just for restoration- exhaust, steering wheel, rubber bushes, ball joints, boots, bearings, belts, water pump, door hinges, leccy windows? ICE, floor mats, RKE.... so maybe cost about £850 plus the car buy price? Thoughts people? Might be easier to just buy a poor example that's about complete for £2k ish and do that up. It's always the interior that's hard. Especially the driver's seat. But other cars I've restored, I went on the german ebay breaker site and bought the german passenger seat material for 100 euros delivered- which in a small commuter car is hardly used- and is like new once valeted. There are loads of Lupos being broken in Germany. Loads and loads.... see here https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-lupo-schlachtfest/k0

My dash cam inteferes with the DAB. Nasty cheap chinese cameras... Or maybe i just need to get a better DAB antenna.

The heater controls / flap / diverter thingy are down the bottom, in front of the gearstick. Pain to get to. I've routed my DAB antenna up the driver's A pillar, along the roof and then down through a gap stuck to the drivers side rear window, at the top. @Skajme , do you get a decent signal if it's under the dash?

Ooo er, properly stripped! 🙄 Even the door rain seals have been pulled. Does it leak when you drive in the rain (or leave it parked in the rain). But it does still have the headlining in place 👍🏻 Anyone out there got a complete gti interior for sale?

Daewoo Matizes you could break into by simply bending the door out and reaching in. Or so I encountered on a rental... cars are only made of thin flimsy sheet steel.

Wind the window down. Bend the frame in a bit. Sorted. You need to do it ocassionally as the pressure from the seal and slamming the door shut a lot bends it.

How on earth did you get that dent behind the door...!? Any more pics? Had a think on price?

Every car costs money to run. New cars less so, but are expensive to buy. Old cars cheap to buy, but maintenance costs creep up on you. Normal... But once you've done everything, it's just maintenance and rust you need to worry about. I budget about £350 average a year for bits/fluids, but I do all the work. Tyres are the biggie usually.

Might be the head unit...?

Do you get any sound from any speaker?

Yeah sounds like more than one problem TBH. The clutch biting point can be adjusted on the cable. If the cable 'slack takeup' spring (next to the clutch lever) is already adjusted to be fully compressed when your foot is off the pedal, then it's probably the pedal box. The creaking might be the weld about to go. The clutch pedal might be below the brake pedal at rest (sure sign the weld has already gone). The heaviness is caused by gunge buildup between the clutch release bearing and the input shaft sleeve. You may notice it gets slightly less heavy as the engine becomes fully warmed up after a drive- the gunge is not as sticky. Gearbox out to sort that- just needs a clean inside the bellhousing.

Yes those sleeves or joints are a right pain. The system is usually a type of stainless steel, but the joins are good 'ol rusty flavoured steel. So the system lasts but the join doesn't! They're about £7 on ebay and last about 3 years. Someone makes stainless types but they're about £30. Welcome to club lupo! cars pics?

Pair of snipey nose pliers might help. Depending on type of plug, there may be a release tag. A small pin on the plug locates in the hole on the flat blade. All will be obvious once off.... And welcome to club lupo! Any car pics? Which Lupo do you have?

Which box/flywheel combo are you running?

I've never thought much of paddle clutches. Bit like brake discs with holes or slots in. You actually end up with less friction contact surface. My gut feeling is that you'll need the pressure plate (clutch system) from something much more torquey. Dunno what though. And a bigger/stronger box too.