mk2

Good tip and it's the recommended method. It's a right pain when the window sliders aren't running parallel.

Cool and an official welcome You've already found them as an addictive car. My bets is that you'll get another soon... I have a flock of them.

One of the members on here who works in a dub dealer can get it for you for nought. Did for me a couple of times. If only I could remember his user ID... He's south west London from memory. He'll read this post hopefully in the next few days? Can't get SKCs unfortunately, that even dealers can't see on the VAS system.

Yeah the design is awful. The clear cover is very lightly glued to base, so if there's any movement, it cracks/separates and water gets in. But not working is probably the wire with the little rubber socket thing that the bulb plugs into. It may have rusted, preventing good contact. May just need a good clean and a wiggle to get the bulb working again. Let us kniw how you get on pic of car? Welcome to Club Lupo!

Can't play the vid, but me thinks it may just need a deep clean with some brake and clutch cleaner (including the short lengths of bowden cable). Then once you've found where the sticking point is spray some lube on. I can't believe I'm telling you this as you know more than I do... ah, unless the bits of plastic (sliders) that the glass mounts into are running at an angle making them jam? Seriously, they should be finger tip effort to move them without glass.

Yeah they're good if the bearing isn't rusted in place. I've broken one of them before! Now I equip myself with a six pack of ale as a gift, and head to the local gearbox guy I know who lets me use his hydraulic press. Even then it takes a hell of a lot of pressure to push the thing out sometimes. Like 20 tons!

Which bearing puller did you use?

Not the cv joints. And OMG what a lot of gear slop in Neutral; I dunno if normal, but lift one wheel off the ground to check the diff- i could spin mine abiut a quarter turn before it took up the slack. Not much different in 4th, which is gear right on the output shaft. Anyone know of a spare SDI box going cheap (from a Polo will also be ok)? Next job- drain oil and pull off the end cover to see if there's any bearing slop in the output shaft...

Need to go and check it. I'm praying that it's not the gearbox, especially after I had it rebuilt only 3000 miles ago. Symptoms are that it makes a very slight rumbling in 4 and 5th. Not when cornering or speed dependent. So I don't think it's a CV joint or a front wheel bearing. My hunch is diff. I'm gonna check for any play in the output flanges (there should be none). No whine to speak of, just the very faint whining they all do as they age. I did just put new tyres on the front a week ago. I don't believe tyres can be causing it. But still that car ain't moving an inch till I been over it. And just renewed the insurance. Sigh.

Drill a hole in a lump of u section. Weld it to what remains of the nipple base. Cut off remaining u section with angle grinder. Remove...

Yeah there are a bunch of wires for speakers and power. If only front speakers, then 4 for those. If rears exist, a total of 8. Use a meter to measure the resistance (about 5 ohm) between the speaker pairs. Brown is earth or 0V. Check the others with a meter. One is power always on +12v. One is switched power +12v. The other is Gala (automatic volume depending on speed). You may have a telephone silent wire also.

If it goes up and down slowly, even without glass, it can only be the tracks. Pull the track assembly out and have a look at the cable routing. It should be really easy to slide up and down without the motor in place. Like finger push effort- real easy. I doubt it's the motor. See the window "how to" thing... Yeah, the leccy motors are stupidly expensive from vdub. I don't think they can overheat, but the sensors shut it down if they can see that it's turning too slowly or is stopped.

I think might be time to remove starter if plan B from @Rich doesn't work. Remive sump shield remove battery (or disconnect it, both terminals) disocnnect starter activation wire plug disconnect power cable from starter terminal remove the two long bolts holding the starter motor in place pull out starter and then see what you find. Just thought- you could also try plan B another way, just by pulling the plug on the starter and carefully connect a wire between the plug tab inside the starter motor socket and +12v (leave the battery connected, as normal). If you hear a click, but no cranking, then almost certainly the starter has gone bye bye. If while you're holding the wire onto the tab inside the socket it clicks and keeps clicking, without cranking, then battery, power wire or earth connectio has probably failed.

The arches look like they have been well done though. The rest of it wouldn't be too tricky to put back to original. Bonnet swap and then replace the various inserts. You need that VW badge on the front just to make it recognisable. About five years ago, I was looking at some sort of kit for my SDI (yeah...!). And serious lowering. Fortunately common sense and @Skezza and @Rich's comments made me think again. The car was originally going to be a spare back up car while I worked on one of my others. Now it's sneaked it's way in to my life to become the daily workhorse. And I have a flock of Lupos.

Thanks for the info. Didn't know that... I'm gonna have a play at replacing JZW in front of the usual 6X0 number and see what I can find. You can swap 6X0 for 191 quite a lot too (mk2 parts).

Do adjustable shocks exist? (Not height- damping adjustment) I wonder what production starts with 6E0 orJZW...? Is that American or S American?

And those sites contradict each other, regarding fitment details. On one it says fits SDI, the other, not. I know for sure the SDI (what I have) is very different to GTI. And for lowering springs, just use new springs from a lighter car (like vw Derby or old polo).

I cheat. To get circlips out that are properly stuck, I end up cutting them into 3 or 4 pieces with an angle grinder. A couple of thin cuts in through the casting, through the circlip always works. Once in 3 pieces, you simply chisel the pieces out in seconds. No weakness after cutting as it's just thin 1mm cuts right on the edge, not where the strength is needed.

All standard bolts have standard tightness settings, which you can find out by looking at the number or code stamped on the head. Stretch bolts are different of course, as are splined, triple square and hex cap bolts (which I think are usually 10.3 rated?). I use this handy table, which is ISO rated (same as VW use).

Struts shouldn't have loose springs when unloaded (MOT fail). There must be some tension (compression) once the top bearing has been tightened up?

Cool. When you desolder the chip and read the data out, how do you know which address location the hex codes are, for the PIN code? It's just two bytes of data, but two in 64k. Needle in a haystack... Odo meter readings are easy, as the data changes after each trip, so you just look for the changed bytes (like looking for a moving planet on a background of stationary stars). If you compare the chips unsoldered from a few Lupos, it's easy to see what is common to all cars, but there are a lot of data changes between models. Wouldn't it be great to identify all the byte locations and their uses. i guess that's what Uwe Ross spends a lot of time doing to make VAGCOM (or VCDS) work accurately. Secret VAG inside info....

What software do you use to read the PIN code from the unit? I've used a "version" of vagtacho, but i can't get the codes. Can you pair up ID48 chips in keys?

Cool.

Check for loose pipes or fittings... explained here: https://www.autozine.org/technical_school/engine/Intake_exhaust.html

Which pin?