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mk2

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Everything posted by mk2

  1. Wot no pics?! How can you do this to us @Rich
  2. Ok, car is going to be 100% fine as these little problems are really common for all us Lupo/Rosa folk... The crank sensor is a regular here on CL. Have a search. An aftermarket one will work, but might not last forever. Even on ebay you can find OEM equivalents for peanuts. Like a tenner. The thing is literally like a nail with fine wire wrapped around it, all encapsulated in plastic. Biggest thing is changing it, as it's a bit tricky to get to. A twenty minute job. Power steering hoses are also a regular on here. Have a search. There's a company that can receive yours, do a complete refurb and send it back for about £80 last time I checked. Bit more fiddly, maybe about half an hour to re-install it. And about a litre of fresh hydraulic fluid- the green vdub stuff. Alternatively, any local hydraulic hose specialist (think JCB excavators) can re-swage the end ferrules for you. And they charge about a tenner a swage. Let us know how you go!
  3. mk2

    Upholstery

    Jon Boy (can't remember his ID) in south africa did a cracking interior on his Loop. Tartan. Have a search... Maybe about two years ago or so.
  4. Yeah, they're a 2 piece assembly. The base (with 2 holes) screws to the door and the push on cover hides the screws (if it is the same as in my Lupos). Actually, same concept in most vdubs. Got a pic of your's (the other side of the car)? Should be easy enough to find at most breakers yards. Like £2 or something.
  5. Good to know about the three legged engine cover clips. I need three. And the indicator to front panel clips- i need a set of 4... Rubber stuff is fine in storage for ages, so long as its kept out of sunlight... The UV makes rubber perish. No idea on the other stuff.
  6. Could you run the sign up process through a different server and then use some sort of approved token or something? So imagine a new punter- they arrive here, start the sign up which then takes them to a service which has all the filtering stuff (all hidden in frames or pixels or something?). When they pass, they get dumped back here again. You know, a bit like a paypal merchant payment thing. Or would that also cost money? Hey, maybe the different server could be an AI bot to check the person is a person... AI blocking AI?
  7. I thought it's the same as a standard Lupo? I'm guessing you mean the door 'pull'? Removable by prizing off the cover using a thin spudger, then using a number 2 philips driver to remove the two screws. @Rich or am I wrong (they're different?)?
  8. Yeah, messaged Matty, but not sure how often he checks his inbox. I think that the forum will need a different confirmation method. But matty uses a template for this forum/site, so might not be that easy. All you moderators must be well fed up. It's really picked up in the last few days. Thanks for keeping on top of it 🍻 Red C3PO eyes indeed
  9. Checking in this morning, it's pretty obvious that CL is now becoming victim to our "we welcome everyone" attitude, where anyone can chime in if they have something to say. Sadly AI algorithms have learned that they can get around the simple join and verify procedure, meaning they can SPAM the forum effortlessly. All to help the Rusbots and CCP shills. Besides a complete site rebuild, or more complex sign up or sign in procedure anyone got any ideas?
  10. Just had a thought- if you have or know someone who has a snake inspection camera, you could look down the entire length on the inside, all the way to the front. Inside the back arches, there are 45mm inspection bungs, just under the noise/stone chip dampening felt. You need to take the back wheels off to remove the felt- at least the front part of it. Torx screws hold it against the metalwork. Easy enough to inspect then. There are also bungs underneath, where the rear beam pivots. I removed the whole lot last summer to spray lots of fresh wax into all my Lupos. And replaced any that were missing afterwards.
  11. Holy crap! Er, yeah, I've only ever seen it that bad on a South African imported mk4 (with minimal wax injection)- mine. And I too sold it as I just couldn't be bothered to fix it. But that was a regular cheapo, common as muck mk4. Not a Lupo GTi, worth a shed load more in good condition. And a lot more desirable. And in Raven Blue!!! (I'm talking myself into making you an offer here...). Looks like you'll need to run an angle grinder right down the entire length, both sides? What's the inner box section like? The construction is 3 pieces- inner box, vertical stiffening plate and outer sill. Time for an exploratory dig?
  12. Good info 👍🏻 @ObjectiveAwayDo you have the details for other Lupo gearboxes- and the cross references - which other cars use the same types?
  13. You need the right ball joints. Regular type, not gti. Same problem I have- I need regular too. On the gti, the hub is different. The shocks are different and the ball joints are different. But I think- not sure, the control arms are the same (but the bushes are different). Subtle stuff thats easy to miss...
  14. Holy thread revival! Undo everything... Either way if you remove from below or above. You need to slide the thing sideways by about 60mm to clear the clutch.
  15. Yeah, regular ball joints are slightly smaller. I bought one the other day as a spare, and it's definitely a GTi version. Bigger. So if anyone needs a LHS gti ball joint PM me... The thread and the nut is bigger too. They will fit, but kick out the hub carrier more, which means the wheels will be toeing out a lot. Which makes sense when you said that the track rod ends are almost unscrewed to get them back in again. The camber will be completely wrong now.
  16. Yes. You may need to change the gear shift linkage, speedo pickup and clutch connection.
  17. Here... https://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/101571-how-to-set-up-the-right-camber-angle-non-gti/
  18. The main difference is the gear ratios (and minor linkage changes). If you put a box in from a 1.0, the car will simply rev higher. What happened?
  19. I'd say still worth a lot more as a whole than as bits, even if a non runner. How much did that crashed non runner go on here for a couple of years back? Like £2k ish? Needed about £750 worth of bits, now worth £5k. Valuable bits are things like tailgate, wings, front and rear bumpers, exhaust, lights, glass and interior (but not everything). Engine and box are still easy to get. @Rich will rebuild it...
  20. Start with your design first. That's the hardest bit. Post lots of your idea sketches pics on here for critique... 👍🏻 Most vinyl cutters (sign writers) can do whatever you ask. If they are pros, they'll usually have a vast selection of colours and finishes. Application needs a still day if doing it outside, and always absolutely clean. Not a speck of dust, which ends up being a bump - really obvious. And wax the car first, so you can always remove them later. Applied either dry with a backer release sheet or wet, using a dilute mix of washing up liquid and a plastic spatula.
  21. You can drill out the worn cup then turn the link around. So the opposite good end goes where the worn one was. Add lots of CV joint grease. Worked for me
  22. Check the gearbox pulse sensor unit...
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