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Everything posted by mk2

  1. I think the banjo, copper washers and hose come complete...? https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/lupo++lupo+3l+tdi/lu/2002-231/6/611-611020/
  2. Just had a mad idea, but might be going well off track... I've never done a cam belt change on that specific engine. But i have on others with cam actuators. When I change the belt, I make sure to reset the actuator, so it's in the stop position. Way out there, but is it possible that when the timing is checked, static, the actuator isn't at rest? As in, timing might be out, but looks ok because the pulley has rotated to compensate... Just thinking of when fitting dizzys on old engines which make the bevel gear shaft position pot luck- often they're out too. But I think I'm wrong- there's a setting tool usually used when doing a belt change on your lump. Only thinking out loud. @Rich may have an idea.
  3. There's an option for cruise control?!? Or at least a mention of it on the brake switch. Also some interesting variants for cold climate conditions too. Neat.
  4. Just a dumb question, which I'm sure you've double checked- the cam belt timing is all correct? Just wondering if there is actually a problem at all... There's lots of stuff you can read on TT forums about the thing. I guess what I'm saying is that I'm trying to figure out the problem rather than find a solution. As in, what is causing the messages and CEL. This is curious.
  5. Yeah that'd be great! The engine is linked to just about everything else- even the brake pedal switch and heating controls, so everything you have would be very handy.
  6. I'd like to see a complete wiring diagram for SDIs. No-one has one apparently.
  7. There is the "old skool" way of finding loom or sensor faults... while the engine is running, disconnect plugs. The ECU will try different subroutines to get around the fault. While it's doing this, you can use diagnostics to watch which faults pop up as either permanent or intermittant. Keep clearing the faults while you're experimenting. The regulated precision 5V rail comes out of the ECU. Usually the voltage regulator inside the ECU is fed by an independent 12V line, controlled by an external relay- also controlled by the ECU and ignition. It's so that the ECU can check that the 5V output rail is working ok and isn't shorted or overloaded. It also will know if the 12V feed going into it is ok. There is an independent Gnd rail that also accompanies the 5V line to the sensors. The idea is that the sensors have really clean power feeds, so their outputs are as accurate as possible. There are two types of sensors- analogue outputs which give a voltage that varies between Gnd and 5v and timing sensors which use magnetic pickups with moving metal teeth. The analogue sensors are easy to see if they're misbehaving as their voltages are all over the place, and you can see the numbers on VCDS. Timing sensors can be a pain if they misbehave. Usually they are ok or not. But the thing that affects them is distance between sensor and teeth, and contamination (especially the magnetic ones that can attract particles or metal dust or when the magnetism drops-due to age). It's worth trying to remove and reposition timing sensors that are on the way out.
  8. I don't know the pinout as never had to personally fix the problem you're describing on a Lupo. But very common on many vdubs. @Skezza and @LR5V have the wiring diagrams I think??? Chaps? Yeah, it can affect multiple sensors (usually), but sometimes the ECU can't "see" the other faults until the main one has been fixed. But I think the Lupo loom doesn't share much as there's quite a bit of spare capacity on the ECU. As in, the ECU used can be used for some much bigger, complex engines. What was the build up leading to the fault? Did it just suddenly stop working while driving or was some work being done then the fault appeared?
  9. I've got one of these too- began last week. Trying to narrow it down right now when I get a mo. Like you did- fuses first. Usual culprits are CCM, Radio, aftermarket RKE, interior dash circuit, a stuck relay or like you say- a dodgy alternator regulator... Let us know how you go. I'm seeing a huge 240mA. That's a lot of power for 'off' status. Should be 5mA max.
  10. Have you checked the loom sensor supply bus? You should get on each 3 wire sensor Gnd/Signal/supply. The signal will vary between GND and the 5V supply. Any reluctor pickups go straight to the ECU, so you can ignore them. However, if the ECU is not seeing a reluctor pickup, it could be shorted or open circuit. Unusual.... But I once had one on a Mk4- a mouse had chewed the speed sensor cable going to the box. Fun living in the countryside.
  11. Did any airbags go off?
  12. Yeah, I'm pretty sure is is one of the power busses (main power feed wires) to the engine loom. You have relays that switch on the loom power, controlled by the ECU. What can happen is that the relay contacts get dirty or fail and you get this fault. And you're right- completely unrelated to what's possible. Fun.... Check the relays behind the fuse box under the dash. But believe it or not, an ignition switch controlled relay 'can' also give the same symptoms, caused by either the ignition switch or the ignition relay. Could also be a connection between the engine loom and main loom (unlikely). Could be the ECU connector or ECU (also very unlikely). Let us know how you get on...
  13. mk2

    New look wheels

    Sharp little car. Nice! That one's a keeper.
  14. OMG! Ok, time to buy a few decent GTis and store them. @Rich, how many do you have in your unit now? Actually don't tell us, someone will try and have them...
  15. LOL! Yeah. Been there done that... Especially engine looms. But is is surprising easy to pull out a vdub light switch when you know how (push the switch in and turn to the centre, then just pull it straight out). Handy if you need a low power 12V feed to power something like a dash cam, only when the ignition is on- and you can feed the wire straight up the A pillar with minimal effort from there
  16. Once fixed up, that'll be a nice little motor... I reckon the bit that will give you the most hassle will be the headlight washer! Most of the other bits are basic mechanical swaps. And a bit of bodywork on the left rear corner. What's the inside like?
  17. LMAO! 😂 Oh yeah!?! Would love to know how many hits they've had on that Gti ad...
  18. On a standard shock, the setup to get the camber right is to get the lower edge of the wheel as close into the car as poss, while pulling the top of the wheel out. But my guess is that you have loads of adjustment slop? You could find a level car park and setup the camber using a spirit level. Staright ahead should be vertical or about 0.2 to 1degree positive. I'd start with the ball joints first- push them is as far as they go and lock off the three bolts. Then mess with the shocks to get the angle right. Then finally tracking...
  19. Hmm. A 620 ohm resistor... I think that is there just to dimly power the led lamp inside the switch. Pleased you have sorted it anyway. If the same problem ever turns up ever again, we know how to deal with it now
  20. mk2

    New Arosa member

    Pics please! How bad's the rust, if any? Welcome to club lupo
  21. Good example to use to show insurance companies the true value of a Lupo GTi in good nick.
  22. I thought there was loads of wax in there. At least there should have been? I've noticed on a few Vdubs, the offside of the car has wax, but not the nearside sub frame mounting. I wonder if there was something happening for a few months on the production line. Fritz, the wax injecting waterproofer was off sick or enjoying too many late nights... (or was it Jean-Claude on the Belgium line?) Fabulous pics by the way. Very useful. Shows, if you're careful, it is possible to drill a decent hole in the side at the bottom. Then before attempting to remove the bolt bung a plug of weld in. Then, in theory, if it rounds off, you might be able to weld something onto the threaded part and loosen it. Maybe the action of welding the captive nut may also help loosen the thread...?
  23. Shame. Least you could do is undo/remove the good fabric off them, and then they'd be postable. Germans are always looking for good driver's seats, like we are. The advantage is their driver's seat is our passenger seat (and vice versa). I paid about €80 for a german passenger seat fabric (like new) and some bits. My insides look like new now
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