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RobArosa

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RobArosa last won the day on May 4 2020

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  1. Hi, thanks for the reply. I meant to say that my daughter took the car in to her local mechanic the other week and they put it on a diagnostic and it showed up nothing. But that's not to say they looked for running faults as such. I'll change the plugs, leads and fuel filter at the weekend and plug in my OBD and then she can take it for a Italian style drive and I'll see what comes up on the reader, if anything. Thanks
  2. Happy new year all and apologies if this post comes up in the wrong area My daughter's car (Arosa 2002 1.0 MPi AUC Engine) seems to have developed an intermittent issue which she describes as feels like it's losing power or being a bit jerky or juddery over 50-60mph. She says it's done it a couple of times and it seems to be when the petrol tank is at the lower end of things. So I've ordered a new set of platinum plugs and some new HT leads and I said I'll change the fuel filter too as it's never been done to the best of my knowledge. Has anyone else had any similar issues and if so how did they resolve it? And also, the fuel filter on the Arosa looks straight forward but as with most things probably comes with its own issues. Can anyone confirm if it's an easy job or not? Thanks in advance for your advice and any suggestions are greatly appreciated Rob
  3. Hi, and thanks. It's the daughter's car which has manual windy windows and no central locking but we found an aftermarket locking kit had been fitted but disconnected. So after a bit of faffing it now has central locking but like you say..is a pain in the bum. Not totally reliable and definitely not as good as factory fitted. Oh well, it's her first car so hopefully at some point she'll upgrade anyway. Thanks for the response
  4. Hey all, has anyone used a universal fit electric window kit on their car? I'd like to fit one but as the window winder pokes out of the metal part between the two removable door trims I don't think it'll be possible or at least not pretty. So the other option would be if I were to get hold of genuine electric door components would I be able to effectively retro fit it to a manual windowed car? If anyone has tried this or has any bright ideas or tips then please let me know. Many thanks guys and girls
  5. The back padding is identical apart from the lupo being foam and the Arosa being a heavier denser plasticised weave stuff. But the Arosa base foam is thinner but contoured to the seat frame so I used the old foam base and the lupo foam back. The lupo has two wires holding the lining width ways on the base whereas the Arosa only has one. I thought about cutting a channel into the foam and putting a second wire in but in the end I took the wire out of the seat fabric so it retains just one. Headrest mountings were different too. Arosa had larger diameter square pegs whereas the lupo has thinner round ones. Luckily they fitted into the square holes and hold in pretty well actually. Thanks for the link, didn't even know you could get iron on patches
  6. Thanks, got round it in the end by swapping the seat fabrics to the old frames but made use of the new back rests. Only issue there is the tilt release lever is in a different place. So I cut a hole for the lever and covered both with some fabric I had left over from the parcel shelf I made. Overall I'm pleased as they now look the part and give the car a whole new look inside. Painted the door cards and handles too. (Bottom pic shows seat before the cover up patch was added)
  7. Have just managed to get hold of a set of lupo seats to swap into an arosa. Backs went in fine but the fronts have a different anchor point. On the original arosa seats they had slider at the rear of the seats and a monorail at the front. The lupo seats have rollers at the rears and a sturdier rail that has a mounting on the front that is held by two bolts. How can I get these seats to fit into the arosa? I can maybe get the rollers into the tracks but the front fixing will need some sort of modification. Maybe a couple of steel right angle brackets might help Has anyone experienced this before on what should be a straight swap?? Image below is what I have on the arosa and image at bottom is what is on the new seat.
  8. Hi all Recently joined and asked advice on the input shaft seal which returned excellent replies. Well the seal has been done, and holding oil nicely. Took the door card off to find out why the door pop up button didn't seem right and was pleasantly surprised to find a central locking kit had been fitted previously but the wires had obviously been fouling the window and so one had been pulled out hence no central locking. Reconnected it and made sure it was clear and now it works again. A nice little bonus. Fitted a new exhaust as its the daughter's first car and the straight through pipe probably wouldn't have helped her insurance! Fitted a reverse cam too as she's used to one in her learner car. Got oil, plugs and filters on the way. And finally got new tyres and wheels on today. Thanks for having me here, it's been a great club for info so far. Hope you like the pic Cheers everyone!
  9. Well I replaced the seal today and so far so good. Apart from being a bit of a faff to get the old one out it went pretty well. Shaft looked ok too so I greased the new seal up and knocked it in square with a socket. I'll see how it goes when it's warmed up as that's when it seems to drop the most oil but for now I'm happy. Thanks everyone for your help so far
  10. That's great advice. Thanks 👍
  11. Brilliant, thanks guys. I'll give it a whirl and see how it goes. Did anyone ever settle on which gearbox oil was best to refill with? Standard or the heavier stuff? It's on 58000 miles so shouldn't be over stressed. Thanks again
  12. Hi all, new member here. My daughter's Arosa has the pretty common oil leak from the gear selector shaft so I thought I'd replace the seal. Is it an easy job? I'll drain the gearbox and replace obviously but how easy is it to remove the seal? And do I remove it around the shaft? Thanks guys and girls
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