mk2

Finally got some screen grabs of VCDSlite and VAGCOM... Can't make much sense of either numbers TBH. I'd like to know how to log the injection start points when cranking. I can get the numbers when stopped- like it says 5 degrees expected; actual degrees '0'- obviously. Then as soon as I start and idle, the software resets (as it loses the comm link for a moment), then shows me the following: I'm guessing that the duty cycle number is the pulse that switches on the injection pump timing valve N108. Am I right in guessing that the higher the number, the further out the static timing is? (as in the position of the injection pump is slightly out) If the duty cycle number is 50%, that is perfect, or is ideal 0%????? I understand whats going on, but can't make much sense of the numbers. I have discovered some wierd quirk of the SDI however. If you rev a warm engine up to say 3000revs pull your foot off the throttle pedal and at the same time momentarily cut ignition, then when i turn key back on at about 2000revs, the ECU resets and fires loads of fuel in (at the wrong time) knocking badly until about half a second later it resumes 'normal play'. Is that a sysmptom that my static timing is too advanced??? Just thinking aloud here....

Did you end up removing your 'A' pillar trims? I still haven't had a go yet as I don't want to break anything....

If you pull the plugs out, are they all the same colour? If one is super oily it could be something more serious. But like skezza said, try thicker oil... Or even EP90!

How many miles and how much did you pay? Any problems with it, although it looks mint?!

Very professional pics

Oil level or maybe bearings have gone? A bit worrying. I'd disconnect the breather pipe, as the oil fumesnever help any engine. Add a length of 20mm flexiduct down towards the road....

Nice. And a 2004 edition too. Very envious! I got my metal plates from eBay from europl8r. Both my loops have em now. Takes at least a year off the age of the car

Tell us more... skezza, what experiments have you done? I've not messed with the SDI exhaust so I don't know- just a wild guess. With many american cars, they rely on highish back pressure to lower the torque curve. In fact the cam profiles rely on it! They sacrifice power for torque. Makes their cars gutless (compared with euro engines) with lots of revs but a lot more relaxed to drive. What effect has a decat on the SDI?

It could be that vdub designed the SDI to rely on high exhaust back pressure to give better torque across the band like a lot of american engines. Chances are that you have a sharply defined torque peak at about 2500 revs. Try keeping the revs around there and see how it goes- Noisy yes, but it might be more responsive around those revs. High back pressure flattens the torque curve making the car easier to drive....

If it's just for fun, get a car that you can buy at price 'x', use for a few years with just fuel and maintenance then sell again at price 'x' or even make money. Maclaren, Lambo, Bugatti.... But realistically, get a hot classic and really enjoy it. Classics make much more of a statement, and generally command respect on the road (if they're looked after). And they're rare too. And an investment. A bit like the Lupo Gti... Personally you can't beat a mk2 golf rally. Or a mk2 golf with 4WD and a 3.6FSI lump in...

Could be the EGR is stuk open if you're showing no power. Both my SDIs have "more than adequate power" (like RR used to describe their engine power specs!) Is the exhaust smokey? If you run the SDI with no exhaust you get lots of noise and the peak torque moves from about 2200 to about 3000 rpm. Also about another 6HP we measured on the dyno. To get good power from any diesel, you need to help it breathe. Clean air filter and everything on the exhaust clear (like sausage said). Only other thing could be blocked fuel filter or water in the fuel filter. There's a little water drain point at the bottom of the fuel filter for exactly that purpose.

more info please...

Plastic is more brittle when cold. I might have a go when it warms up a bit, or dig out a hair dryer! Less chance of cracking it when it's warmed up.

I'm fitting a full HD black box cam, that neatly fits just behind the rear view mirror (I don't have a tinted sunstrip windscreen). I'm routing the cable up the inside of the 'A' pillar, but I need to get the trim off to put the wire behind it. Then it'll be connected to the ignition circuit, so when I turn on, the camera powers up automatically. Anyone done this? I've tried but it seems quite well attached and I don't want to break it....

Do you have hydraulic lifters on the shocks? Looks like you're actually in contact at the front! Nice...!

When I got my first lupo, some numpty had fixed the electric windows, but failed to grasp the purpose of the stick on foam sheets over the gaps in the doors. So when I removed the door cards there was lots of ventilation, and easy entry for water. Both front footwells wet...

Here's my thoughts for all you potential buyers out there: Check the following very carefully as well as all the usual stuff like brakes, tyres, lights, interior etc etc Gearbox Pedal box Door straps Heater controls Front wheel bearings Roof channels Electric windows Central locking system Rear wash wipe Indicator/wiper stalk switches Rear shocks and bump stops both keys? radio code? SDI specific: not smokey (when hot) smooth running (not knocky) power when accelerating (should be strong with good torque) Anyone on GTI, and the other models? What have I missed?

You can fill it the old way through the speedo pickup

Just changed the 18 month old tractor diff oil (straight mineral EP90 GL5 because it was whiney) back to fully synthetic 75EP90 GL4-5 as it's easier to change gear when the oil is cold. After a year and a half (15k miles) this is what I found on the little magnet I stuck inside the sump plug (in addition to the built in magnet you cant get to). Gives me an idea that all is still ok- no major chips- just very fine black dust. Also the oil came out nice and clean which is a bonus. I'm still going to rebuild it when I get a chance. 90k miles and counting on my SDI no.1.

any updates?

Trouble is there are two types of lupo buyer... There's us lot, enthusiasts who appreciate the car and all its finer details, especially the GTI and the SDI. Then there's the lot who simply see a lupo as a cheap runabout or a first car. Consequently GTIs and SDIs hold their value and the others don't. But I am generalising, and there are many exceptions of course!

So long as there are no lights on the dash during the test, it won't affect the mot.

That's rubbish. There's a shut off valve in the pipe. When you unscrew the switch, the valve in the pipe shuts off the gas. It's like a car tyre valve. You might get a little "ptssss" sound for a second, but not enough gas escapes to need a regas. Reading this just makes me mad at those stealership mechanics.

I had the exact same problem on a mk4. My first step was to prove the system still physically functioned. I made up a lead so I could power the compressor solenoid, using an old fuel injector cap (they have the same plug). With the engine idling, I powered the compressor for max 30 seconds which duly clicked in and then started running. Inside I had the fan on plain fresh air and simply felt the air being blown out of the vents. Yup, icy cold, which told me the system did indeed work just fine. So it was an electrical problem. If you try this, don't run it for too long as the system can over pressurise. There is a dump valve on the back of the compressor which will vent refridgerant if the pressure goes too high to save blowing any pipes or downstream components. Vagcom messages were all useless. Everything else on the car worked just fine. So it had to be the fan control relay thing. Regular engine cooling fan control worked ok; no engine overheating or anything. Bought a used, 'working' unit and tried that. No change. Hmmmm. Might be the over/under pressure switch, or connection. So unclip and measure the output. All fine. I've never ever seen one of these fail. At this point I started to think the same as previous posters. I read the other forums about the fuse near the battery connection, but it was just fine. That lead me to think that if just one fuse can give rise to all those symptoms, it could be a +12V supply problem from the fuse to the fan relay thing. Found it...! There is a little plug that has wires hanging down vertically from the battery mounted fuse pack. In non ac cars, it has just one wire which I think is for the radio. On ac cars there is a fat wire which is for the ac. Somehow when working on the car I must have bumped it and the plug was not fully clicked in. I clicked it back in and sure enough, the ac started working again.

Those symptoms point to the vacuum advance.