mk2
-
Posts
4,433 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
246
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Everything posted by mk2
-
Checked mine today, and sure enough the central spindle looks like it's snapped off. Looks like someone forced it off when they fixed the pedal box... Rich do you have a pic of the clip thats meant to hold it on? I'll fabricate a new one, when i know what it looks like.
-
Yeah, i meant sku. I'm used to using the bosch ecus where you can lock out 'sections'... Don't mean the locks. I'll buy a vag tacho thing and when it arrives next year give it a go... I have vagcom already. Yet another plug in lead... I'm amazed that you can simply swap out the clocks. Even on old golfs you can't do that. You need to match everything, keys, cluster and ecu....
-
I haven't bought the Vag Tacho 3.01 system yet, but at just £9 thought it may be worth a punt... (from Ebay.com not .co.uk). Has anyone had any success coding some new keys or doing cluster swaps, lockouts etc? I've been reading that the Lupo instrument cluster is a bit different to other Vdubs. I've given up trying to find an aftermarket steel key (brass is rubbish), and VW want like £70 for the key plus another £60 to pair it. So I thought I'd buy the ready cut OEM steel key and have a go at doing the pairing myself and save £50- and learn something new in the process. Once I have the SKF number out of the cluster, I can plug Uwe Ross's VAGCOM system in, and away I go (I think...). Fortunately I still have one OEM key in which the transponder works- so in theory I can extract the SKF, as the system will be unlocked. I've read other threads about VT version 2.5 that it only works up to 2002 cars. Not having had a play on a Lupo in this field before, any suggestions very much appreciated. Thanks guys.
-
Rich is right as usual...
-
Interior is all of a sudden on, and staying on!!
mk2 replied to VeeDub Paul's topic in Volkswagen Lupo
It's the interior dimmer controller (not the instrument one), but I have no idea where it is located in the Lupo... When the power transistor shorts out, the light just stays full on. Rich? Skezza? lupogtiboy? mattarosa? One of them will know for sure. -
the cure to our eleccy windows is loads of silicone spray oil. Spray everything that makes contact with the glass. Rubber/seals/fluff/trim/furry dice....
-
I thinks he's already got the loom, or it wouldn't even try to start... Yeah, it's not simple, but since blueboys1 already has worked on the internals of the swapped ECU with software lockouts etc, I'm fairly certain he must know what he's doing. I hope! Otherwise the swapped ECU would have gone pop already since the wiring to the ECU connectors is slightly different. I get the impression that he's now working on the fine tuning, setting up the different sensor values, which is why I was aksing about the interface stuff to other components. The instrument cluster is the classic "tell all" once it's all up and running again. Fuel pump prime is a good first question!?
-
Do the instruments work? Are you getting an RPM signal? Is the immobiliser disabled/paired with the keys/enabled? Is the fuel pump control circuit running ok (prime and then stop, and then running when cranking)? All sensors giving readings at the ECU plugs? Can you interrogate the sensors using VAGCOM?
-
lots more info please on the setup... too many questions! (Electrics mainly)
-
nimble little hands...
-
bump... anyone?
-
Just read that how to which is great! But there is one very conspicuous absence (really important when lowering a car). When you lower a car, the position of the rear beam will have changed compared to the oem setup (it's closer to the body). There is a brake compensator which affects the front-rear braking pressure. If it isn't set right, the rear brakes will be running at a higher pressure than they should be. "So what?" you may ask... It matters. (also the steering tracking changes) If you're braking at speed on a bend and the rear brakes have more grip than they should you could lose it. The rear brakes should always be less 'bitey' than the fronts to help high speed braking stability. The front should always lockup before the rear (even with ABS). That's what the brake compensator is there for. If you have more weight in the back, the compensator automatically adjusts the brakes for the extra weight. If you don't have that weight in the car, you want to adjust the compensator to the 'off' position when the car is on a level surface. A mate totalled his mk2 because he didn't set the compensator correctly after lowering and the rears locked up.
-
Tell me about it... I could spray them with chrome rattle can paint, but the lenses are bonded to the rear section. So probably a non starter. I've found some new units on Ebay for about £8 each delivered, so probably my best bet unless someone has some decent used ones they want to sell???? Anyone? I need a pair! Yes I feel really stupid...........
-
I'm guessing that it's to stop the plastic 'crazing' or going 'milky'. But if it's only the outer surface, I can polish them again every now and then (or T-cut). And clever me decided to wash the indicator lenses last night in the kitchen... Bad move. All the chrome reflective stuff has come off. Now I need some new front indicators. D'oh! The word idiot comes to mind.
-
I was checking the head and indicator front lenses today as they had condensation in... hairdryer time. All dry now. But I had noticed that there were a few unusual looking marks on the headlights. Looked like varnish or clearcoat peeling off which I didn't think of until I got the t-cut out. So ten mins later, having had a good go with the T-cut, the result was bad. So bad, I thought I'll probably need some new headlamps. Then realised that the headlamp lenses were coated with a varnish, which had to come off. And it was very slightly yellowing or discoloured. Out with the wet'n'dry paper. Starting at 320 grit, ending with 1200, lots of water, then rubbing compound and then the T-cut again, to finish with some meguiars polish. 3 hours later, I have some really nice clear blue (not yellowed) looking headlamps again. I'll post a pic when I get a chance. Only trouble is that the lenses are so clear, that the dried condensation residue is now visible inside... Has anyone else got varnished lenses?
-
I'm sure someone on here will be able to help...
-
Anything below 0.2V is earth... so I guess that's ok. The regulator could be in 'on' mode, but I cannot think why. The output would be fine though as that is a different part of the control system. As the RPMs of an alternator drop, the current through the slip rings has to increase to up the magnetic field, which in turn causes the output to go up again. So when not moving it draws max current. At high RPMs almost nothing (from itself of course).
-
ends Monday night (8th Dec 2014) http://smartstudios.info/display.php?M=105316&C=e499d3a0df68a1d7f09748abeee3487e&S=1208&L=39&N=517 Use discount code: XMAS33
-
Yeah, but disconnect the battery first, and do not reconnect until the ECU connectors are back on. Use a pin to measure the volts on the wire (pierce the insulation and seal the tiny hole afterwards). Make sure your meter is in volts measuring mode. Don't apply any voltage to the pin (or a load). Then you can watch the volts change as things around the car happen. I guess you've eliminated the alternator already? I'm curious to know what this fault is...
-
Yeah the looms are a bit different- you WILL need the wiring diagrams of both. Also the ECUs will need some messing with (that's the hardest bit).
-
A. yes my master. Do or do not, there is no try. B. And I've just beautifully sealed the inner waterproof membrane only last week. Looks like I'll be cutting it out again then. Sigh.
-
Hey Rich, A. I don't have the wiring diagram- is that wire you're talking about a sense line to tell the ECU that the doors are unlocked? If it is, is it the same wire that needs to be off (= locked) to get the LED to flash and to pair up new blank keys (which I'm failing to do)? And B. Do you need to pull the entire lock mech to get that microswitch swapped over? (Me thinks I'll need to mine... groan). No C.
-
Not trying to break this thread, but is there a way to spray contact cleaner in somewhere to clean the microswitches without pulling the locks? Every Vdub, skoda, seat and audi I know 1997 to about 2009 has lock faults. Even the top of the range Phaeton. Why did VW get their locks so wrong....
-
Yeah, I'm guessing that you have engine fuses and the normal under dash fuses. Check all of them with a current meter. The alternator usually is connected directly to the battery which is why I thought of it. Try that first. Electrics are just like a house with loads of bathrooms. Somehwere the water is running, and you simply have to check every tap one by one till you find it.
-
Your off current should be no more than the max allowed 50mA. More than that and something is running/on. There is the feed off the end of the fuse block on top of the battery? It shouldn't be that difficult to isolate by pulling fuses and measuring the current in each fuse socket. The only other thing is a dodgy alternator regulator. But really unusual if it is..... The current is about consistent with the rotor winding. 2.5A ish.... Try unbolting the alternator feed (at the battery end) and measuring the current there.
