Bigfoot

lol @ nfbr All it takes to fit the supercharger to the gti engine is 2 brackets... to get it to work is whole lot more bother. Cheaper to charge a sport as the internals are stronger, but not cheap to do. I priced it up at about £2500 all in including a map, but i would be making all of the custom bits myself at my work (adaptor plates, pulleys, ic piping etc) so was saving loads there. Ecu and map is more than £1k itself

I researched a bit round the forum for my sport being supercharged, but decided it wasnt really worth it. Parts needed Eaton M45 supercharger (mini cooper s charger) Lupo GTI injectors 2mm Head Spacer plate + 2 head gaskets Pulley/ belt arrangement Supercharger brackets Intercooler + piping 4 branch manifold 2 1/4" exhaust Emerald ecu + map (Storm Development) Some sort of induction kit, sized for a 2ltr+ car For extra safety a 255ltr/m fuel pump (walboro, etc) and a fuel pressure regulater (FSE) With that setup you should see about 180bhp-190bhp. Most expensive bit is the ecu and mapping at well over £1k

I did this a different way (need to get another lens tomorrow) and rewired the actual light unit so its a plug in, plug out job to go back to the standard lights I'll put up a how to when there on and working

Do the brakes squeel when you pull away from junctions some times as well, whether the brakes are hot or not? Best bet is to check the sliders in the caliper carriers. Had this problem with my sport and takes about an hour to clean up both sides start to finish . Take the wheel off and unbolt the caliper. Where the caliper bolts bolt into are the sliders. They should move freely in and out and be able to turn side to side. If not, guess what, their seized. To free them off turn them using either a spanner or mole grips and work them out of the carrier. Once the slider is removed give it a clean/ slight sand, do the same with the inside of the carrier (screwdriver, pipecleaners and petrol work well) regrease both the slider and the carrier and re-insert. Build everything back up and voila, no more squeeky/ clunky brakes

Yeah I know, with 15mm spacers all round it will bring the et down to 12. Just want to know how low an et i can run with a 7J wheel and 165/50/15 tyre really. I'm sure its been done before (probably a different set of wheels or not) I just cant be arsed wasting £100+ on adaptors...

right o, just bought some camber shims for my mk2 arosa sport and just wanting to know... Hot thick adaptors to run on the front/ back? Will be running a set of cookie cutters, 15x7, et 27.3 (i think low et versions anyway), -1.5 camber shims, 165/50/15 bridgestone tyre. On coilies so getting it to sit flush is the challenge really, not too bothered about rubbing as i could raise the car a little for daily driving then hoop it for going to shows. Dont fance spending a couple of hundred quid on adaptors just to have to go out and get another set made up :S Or even if someone nearby has a set lying about i could mock the car up on and add spacers to the 5x130 side until i get the desired fitment. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers Andy Arches will be rolled (fronts already done)

Wouldn't be able to go low on those wheels really with that ammount of poke/ tyre size. If you got them I'd say you'd only be able to go down 60mmish before you get rubbing. But if you fitted a set of 165/50's then you'd probably get down to about 90-100mm

spray wd40 onto the pas pump belt and alternater belt and whatnot and see if it goes away, if it doesn't put a long screwdriver onto the pas pump near the pulley and place the other end of the screwdriver on your ear, you'll hear it whining badly if it is the pump. Do the same check as above on your alternator. Check your pas fluid as well as if its low, the pump WILL whine like mad. Other than that, could be anything from a bit of plastic cover touching the belts/pulleys to a wiped bearing in the engine...

Ball joints are different design on the mk2 items

check that the sliders on the carrier are free as well as these can cause the brakes to bind on a bit as well. Easy fix as you just remove the slider, give it a clean/ sand and regrease and put back in. Was one of the problems with my sport when i got it

Before you attempt to fit the coilovers (this is from about 9-10 cars experience) remove the top mount plates and crack the spring retaining nuts (between top mount and top mount plate). These are really the only hard points in fitting the coilies and the best thing to use is an airgun (21mm socket) if you dont have access to this, a 21mm swan/goose neck spanner and a 6/7mm allen key. even push your luck at a kwik fit or something and ask if they could slacken the nuts for you and drive home. Other than that its an easy job. (even easier if you buy new front top mounts/ bearings and new spring retaining nuts.

I wont be a self adjusting one tbh. Its a 10mm and a 13mm nut thats on the cable. crack the nuts and tighten the 13mm until the spring is fully compressed, then lock the nuts together, job done.

Just use the standard washers from current coilovers. The washer is there so that the shockie doesn't go too far into your boot and without it you would have no dampening

Fit a set of camber shims. It'll tuck the tyre in. Can get them from a company called regal and there like £20. Will take about 1-2 hours to fit start to finish.

i like the charger whine you get off the eaton charger, and i also like the fact that it could be reverted back to its original for fairly easily. g40 is just a plain no due to the fact that there getting rare now and should be left where they are. 20vt is a no again due to all the problems with the engines and how awkward they can be. BACK ON TOPIC... am i right enough with my requirements list?

Not into throttle bodies as the inlet is at the back of the engine. G40 is a waste of time tbh, too many being stripped out of the mk3 polo in my opinion. Only reason I say under £2.5k is because I'll be able to get all of the custom hardware made for less than £100 all in (work at Rosyth Dockyard and will be made from off cuts).

Anyone supercharged a 1.4s? If I go forward with the sport mike, al make you up a set of brackets

Really bored of the Arosa now mate and need to keep it for moving down south lol The mk2 will still be getting done though for deffo. Smoothing the engine bay and removing the rest of the interior. Decided to strip it out and big arches lol

after browzing the forum for a while and researching a bit, it seems that supercharging a sport is much easier than doing the same to a gti. in saying that ive made a sort of short list and want to know if theres anything ive missed out. its just that i could get all the parts and do all the work myself for less than £1500 before a map just want to see if im right before i take quite a bit of cash away from my other project. lupo gti injectors big induction kit 4 into 1 manifold eaton m45 off a mini extra pulleys and belt. tubular supercharger inlet flange tubular supercharger exhaust flange. intercooler piping intercooler blow off valve 2mm head spacer with a head gasket either side timing belt kit and a head bolt set. storm developments remap/ Custom ecu costing lots (1000-1500 quid) that about rite? cant see anything mentioned about a fuel pressure regulator or uprated fuel pumps. even if so there not too expensive. this is for info only at the moment as im bored to death with my arosa and want to know whether to call it a day or not lol cheers Andy

I've heard that some folk heat wrap the exhausts to relieve some faults. Not got a 4 branch myself but heard that heat wrap helps

bloody marvelous g60 brake time at pay day lol

changed the front wheel bearing on my arosa on friday and noticed that i need pads... also noticed that the calipers looked quite mahoosive, and was wondering if there the same as the lupo gti. if they were then i might as well get g60 carriers and discs to match the new pads lol if its any help the current carriers look squarish lol. cheers andy

yeah a know what you mean mate, the clips just weren't game for coming out at all lol. need to ammend one of the photos as there's 7 bolts on the peddle box lol

NOTE the spring has to be fitted onto the flat of the brake servo clip. spring to be fitted onto here... Also this is what my pedal box looked like when it was removed... Looks like the heat from the weld made the metal next to it more brittle, therefore, I would personally advise NEVER to weld a knackered pedal box. Especially when I paid... Peddle Box (S6X2721115G) = £25.82 + vat 2x Sheer Bolts (SN90583001) = £1.79 + vat Brake peddle clip (1H2721169) = £3.81 + vat Cobalt Drill bit (SWT1250460A) = about £5 each from Cromwells From start to finish I'd say it would take, maybe about 4-5 hours with tea breaks lol