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Finally got chance to have another look today and decided to check the immobiliser, got it out and took the plastic covers off and there is a lot of corrosion on the board. There are multiple breaks in the tracks on the board which have been fixed but there may still be more which I haven’t found yet. I have tried putting the immobiliser back in but it still won’t start, I am wondering if the immobiliser needs resetting somehow to remove the block on the engine starting. Does anyone know if this may be the case? Also does anyone know if it’s possible to replace the immobiliser? Thanks

Hi All, My 2005 Lupo GTI has started blowing fuse 30, which I understand is exhaust gas recirculation value and activated charcoal solenoid valve. I have an MOT in a week so I'm keen to correct it. Does anyone know of a common failure in this area, or could recommend an approach to this particular fault? Pictures welcomed! All the best!

Yeah, it's going to happen to everyone I reckon. I spotted a ghetto strap fix on here a few years ago but can't find it. Was an elegant solution from what I remember. Anyone have any ideas where it might be?

Most of the OEM belts are made by Contitech, but Dayco and FEBI are decent brands too Have a look on Autodoc

Ross Tech Wiki shows this 17978/P1570/005488 - Ross-Tech Wiki and this for the other fault 18010/P1602/005634 - Ross-Tech Wiki

These are the codes that are coming up.

That really helpful thanks!! I’ve seen some stuff saying p1570 is a hard code and is difficult to get rid of does anyone know anything about this? Originally there was a code about low voltage which went after the battery was charged so wondering if it just needs hard clearing. I’ve cleared the code on vcds but it just comes straight back so I’m wondering if it isn’t fully clearing it? Thanks

Does a GTi have 109? Location?

You already have the immobiliser response code... it's the ECU that's given that code above, not the immob? Positions are the same, so you might be right. Might have been changed before? @lupogtiboy, do you have a relay position diagram? I can't find one for the Gti.

I’m thinking it’s more a power issue than a key issue, because if it was a key issue would there not be some response from the ecu to the immobiliser? I'm also struggling to find relay 109, I’m not sure if it has been replaced with a relay with a different number on it. There is a 95 which I’m not sure about all the others seem pretty normal. Do the positions of the relays vary from car to car? Thanks

Yeah, the immobiliser... There's a pick-up coil around the ignition key barrel. You could very carefully, remove the chip from your only working key and tape it to the pick-up ring. But you might already be getting a key symbol on the dash? Not sure if your version of GTi has it.

Been trying to get it started over the weekend with no luck. Tried charging the battery and checked all fuses but can’t find any issues. Getting 1 fault code which is p1570 Engine start blocked by immobilizer. I have also found on VCDS in the immo measuring blocks all numbers are 0 except 2 keys adapted and immo status 6. I’m going to check relay 109 and if that’s ok look at the immo itself but not sure what to do after that. Anyone got any ideas? thanks

need to change the fan belt and tensioner on my Lupo 1.0, can anyone recommend a quality make to use or where can i get the original equipment manufacturer, VW Audi fan belt from?

Time for a bit of a shake up! I'm sure that this'll split opinions, but I like it

Superb! ❤️👍🏻

Hey all! Writing to you from our holiday destination, lovely Bude, North Cornwall on this fine morning Otis made it all the way from Kent to Bude yesterday, a staggering 277 miles! No issues whatsoever. My longest drive by far (I had previously only done 70 miles as my longest in one hit!) and honestly? Very comfortable! I ♡ my Lupo As you may've seen, I'm making good use of these roof bars by strapping some bodyboards onto them!

You won't get a code for crank sensor... Fuel problem then?

Had a carly code reader on it and didnt get much back, so borrowed a Vagcom lead and read the codes on that. Come up with low voltage to ECU is preventing start. Going to charge the battery up and have another go over the weekend. Didnt think it would be battery related as it turned over no problem! Yeah spark seemed fine so hoping the cranks sensor is ok. Thanks for the replies!

Can you smell any fuel at the exhaust? If not, could be fuel system related, like pump, filter, pressure regulator, that sort of thing. Not ECU. Not temp sensor. Not ignition or plugs. And like @lupogtiboy says, crank sensor? You'll get no or intermittant sparks if it's the crank sensor.

Have you put a scanner on it? My bet would be the crankshaft sensor, utter b@stard to change

Have you tried putting a jump pack/trickle charger on the battery?

Hi, I’ve got an issue with my Gti it cranks over and tries to start but cuts out sometimes it just keeps cranking but doesn’t fire. The fuel pump seems to pressurise sometimes when the ignition is put on but other times it doesn’t. Checked spark and all ok. Battery voltage is 11.7. Checked fuse for fuel pump and that’s ok. The car has been stood for a week or so. Does anyone know what might be causing this? Thanks

Heated seat is basically just a long wire which heats up when attached to low voltage electricity. You just read what ever ohms you have and then check if that is not too much. The heated seats should have to 14V on full power. The plug connected or not connected dont change anything.

hi iv got an issue with my seats not heating up what should the voltage read and witch wires to go off as i think theres 4 on the plug and also what are the omhs suppose to read and do you read them when the seat is plugged in or unplugged thanks