Sausage

Heat always helps, unless your parts are flammable or plastic, but still heat nearly always helps. What puller was it that stripped? I got a set off ebay a few weeks ago which i havent used and wonder if it's the same one. If it's just the large long bolt or nut you can just find another with same thread pref harder grade steel though.

those are your only two choices are they?

Photos?

Dont bin the shell just yet then as i may be interested after all. (goes off to look at lupo A pillar / floor corner)

I'm pretty sure all the arms are the same except the gti has longer bottom ball joint because of wider track, so they are talking ****. You can get the bushes on their own if you can get them in and out.

Which part? http://etka.cc/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/LU/year/2001/drive_standart/231/hg_ug/407/subcategory/407010/part_id/3705862/lang/e

I realised after posting that was probably a private plate. Is the A pillar / body twisted as the door pillar is taped up?

If there's enough of the clip showing, you could drill some small holes or indents in it to let your chisel / punch get some traction. Maybe use the puller or whatever you have to crush the circlip into the bearing a bit and see if that frees it up as it sounds like the bearing is pinching it in the groove.

Yeah not worth repairing sadly and as it's pre Y plate i wouldnt have been interested anyway unless it was cheap enough. Good luck with the sale. I dont suppose the tyres are 195 55 14 (usually 185) and have good tread?

Why are you breaking it? What year is it and how much for the whole car?

According to that it needs to be approx 40mm shorter depending on how you have mounted the engine. I'm not sure how GTI figures translate to a mk1 arosa though. Just make sure the shaft wont bottom out with suspension travel and engine / gearbox movement, i.e hard cornering etc.

What are you using on the circlip, big circlip pliers or prying it with flat blade screwdrivers (or some other method)? Soak it and stick the knuckle in a vice if you have one and get a punch or blunt chisel in one of the holes and tap it in towards the centre (right angles to the groove) to get it moving, then do the other hole. if it aint moving then heat and soak (flames ) then do it some more. the ends will bend in and you can get a big flat blade screwdriver in there and work your way around, circlip should be resusable if you dont bend it about too much and reshape the ends back to normal. Or get a new one obviously. If your circlip pliers arent man enough for big circlips get some old mole grips and weld some short metal bar on the ends of the jaws the same size as you circlip holes and use that.

Look at the linkage first as it's free and not nearly as much effort as taking out the gearbox. If you can manually select the gears on the selector mechanism on the gearbox under the car especially reverse as it makes that distinctive reverse gear metallic clunk when selected then it's your cables or linkage adjustment. If you cant manually select them using the selector mechanism (and throw in the whining from the gearbox) then it's reasonably safe to say it's the gearbox. You'll probably have to disconnect the cables btw. In neutral and stationary (with the engine running obviously) if you have whining with clutch up and it goes away with the clutch down and comes in at the bite point then it's probably the bearings on the input shaft. If you only have whining while moving then it's probably output shaft or differential bearings. The 085 box has a very weak bearing on the nose of the output shaft near the diff, so my money would be there.

Defo easier to sell yours and buy a 1.4, insurance will be cheaper and easier too.

You could get a reasonable guesstimate by looking up the kerb weights of a 1.8t donor car and it's 1.6 equivalent and finding the difference then add that on your lupo base cars weight. Mk4 golf 1.6 16v fsi 1125kg Mk4 golf 1.8T 1240kg Mk4 golf 1.8t 20v 1279kg Difference = 115kg or 154kg depending on engine (according to auto data net website) So that gives a reasonable figure to work from. Although some of that may be larger wheels and tyres extra interior weight from extra features and other factors.

Naw, i think it's worth losing the timing and starting from scratch at least once in your life for educational purposes.

Use 240 grit and mask off the black edge so you dont sand that, then go finer once thru the lacquer. Or else some careful application of paint stripper again with the centres and tyres masked off. The marks are under the lacquer.

Look at the fuel return pipes on the injectors and if they are weeping or looking tired replace them as air gets in there if they arent up to snuff. If i had suspicions of air in the fuel then i'd also change the fuel lines from the filter to the pump for clear reinforced pvc so any air is visible. If you have air in the fuel and nothing obvious as to where it is coming in then it is worth looking at the fuel strainer on the pickup in the tank. I had a mk1 Golf diesel with a blocked strainer in the tank many moons ago (oh the memories). If this started after a filter change then double check all the pipes etc disturbed during that procedure, also make sure the pipes are on the right inlet / outlets.

Locking them or not depends on the engine tbh, on some they want to kick round because of the camshaft position, others will stay put or near enough. At any rate you should always rotate the engine around by hand at least 2 full revolutions after the belt goes back on and double check that your marks line up again before restarting the engine, it's always worth doing this a couple of times as well just to make sure, so no chance of running it with the timing out. If you have "lost" your timing and need to start again, determine which is cylinder number 1 and make sure it is at TDC (plug out and thin clean rod down the bore feeling top of piston).

That's some weird localised rust, is the other side similar condition?

Likely the cracks are from whatever impact happened on the rear end, that arm must have taken quite a whack. Have a look in the boot floor back edge and corners / wheel well for creases and dents.

Yep check for damaged sills, expect the window switches to be iffy, the gearboxes on the tdi are miles better than the 085 gearboxes in other non gti lupos but seem to have a weak 3rd gear synchro, and listen out for any scraping noises from the balance shaft / oil pump chain in the sump area as it is catastrophic if the chain fails.

When cold mine is fine 2nd to 3rd, but wont go 4th to 3rd for love nor money until it's done a few miles. I live with it, maybe I should get off my ass and check the oil level and quality though. Defo get the TDI if you want to have some power though, very simple to DIY map to 100bhp and with some tinkering plenty more is possible.

Not much point in buying one below Y reg as the tax wont be £30 and the value will be lower as a result.

You would need to bleed it, no real way around that if the flexy pipes are thru the beam anywhere.