Dblock Posted May 13, 2013 Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Hi guys, So I want to replace the front speakers with some new comps. Now I'm no stranger to ice etc but I've never fitted or installed a system myself. Now I'm handy enough with spanners these days so I want to fit my own system. I have done some searching and have found some info but some stuff I still need to know. So I'm going to get some comps 6.5" mids and probably 1/2" tweeter. I'm just going to use the crossover that comes with it for ease of setting it up. I also want to amp the speakers. I have a tdi so battery is in the front.So basically I need a guide if possible on:how to hide the battery wiring from the front to the back. which screws etc I need to actually fit the speakers with the adapter rings.How to replace the tweeters. How to replace the speaker wireHow to connect the speakers up to the amp. Yes alot I know! But all help is always appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver! Posted May 13, 2013 Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Can't help with the ice stuff, but you will need some of these to screw the adapters to the door as the originals are riveted in.U clips: You can get them from Halfords. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted May 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Cheers mate. Thats a good point. Any ideas on which screws I will need? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver! Posted May 13, 2013 Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Self tappers, can't remember what size I used in the Arosa. Sorry.Buy the U clips and screws together and you should be fine. Obvioulsy take the adapter ring to make sure the screws fit the holes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete91 Posted May 13, 2013 Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 To hide the wiring you're best removing the seats and the trim around the dash. Once all that's out you'll be able to run it under the carpet. Your best shout is to run the power cables on the opposite side to the RCAs to stop interference.To get it from the bay to the cabin there is a grommet on the passenger side that you can run the cable through.Dunno if you need a guide on the trim removal...?For the screws just what ray said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete91 Posted May 13, 2013 Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 The tweeter can just be popped out by carefully levering them off with a flat head. The tweeter then twists off and the cover comes off. The covers will need slightly modified to fit the new tweeters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted May 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Ahh fantastic. A guide for removing all that if its out there would be handy. Are the tweeters not in the dash? Do you not have to take off all the dash to get to the tweeters? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete91 Posted May 13, 2013 Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 To replace the speaker wire just buy some new stuff and run it from the crossover to the speaker in the door. Again this will be easier with the trim off and you can run it through the plastic tube things that are next to the door hinges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete91 Posted May 13, 2013 Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 To connect the speakers to the amp you'll need to run the speakers to the crossover and then from the crossover to the amp. The crossover will have a pos and neg for both inputs (the woofer and tweeter) and then will have a pos and neg for the output which will run to the amp. The best place I found was to put the crossover up under the trim in the passengers footwell (the bit with the foam stuff that comes off if you get me). Take off the passenger trim to make this a lot easier. To run the cable from the tweeter to the crossover you're best taking out the vents as it will give you loads of access. The vents just pull off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete91 Posted May 13, 2013 Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Ahh fantastic. A guide for removing all that if its out there would be handy. Are the tweeters not in the dash? Do you not have to take off all the dash to get to the tweeters?Nah the covers will come off with the dash in place. Just lever them and they'll come off. Once you know how it's done you'll see how easy it is to do. You can have the tweeters out in seconds For the trim basically just look for torx screws...they're ****ing everywhere!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted May 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Fantastic mate your a legend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted May 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Need to look for some speakers and an amp. Will have a route around tomorrow. Thinking about adding a sub aswell now Running the RCA's down the drivers side as power will be down the passenger side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete91 Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 No worries mate. Any questions feel free to ask Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trx 33 Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Rivnus are a good solid alternative to U clips, i have bought some (M4) for the doors but am yet to decide weather to use them or not as there a bit more effort, just a bolt and a nut on the back will be good enough. To get the original speakers out you will need to drill out the 4 rivets holding it in, speaker rings will be needed to space the new speakers to clear the window, the size/amount of these will depend on what speakers you buy and how deep they are. You will want to be using M4-M5 bolts to secure the new rings in place.I'm currently doing an install but havent got around to the doors, i've got all the materials though so will be using threaded inserts to secure the speakers into the rings. These will allow the speakers to be removed as many times as i like without risk of damaging the wood. Something else to consider will be crossover placement. Where are you going to hide/show them? Another thing to consider is moisture inside the doors. My old speaker rusted quite severely on the back in the drivers door. Regarding power wire, there is a grommet on the passenger side of the engine bay as said before. You want to pop a slight hole in it and get someone to feed your cable through. Make sure it is NOT connected. The cable will come out BEHIND the insulation, run your hand up behind till you find the grommet hole and wires. You should be able to grab the power wire as your aide feeds it through from the engine side and pull it through. Run the cable alongside the factory wires so you can fasten it into the clips, should make a tidy job Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete91 Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Defo wouldn't go for rivets. Just a pain in the arse to get out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted May 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 Cheers guys. If nuts would work then I'd prefer just to use nuts. But the speaker rings I'm looking at are made of plastic? Does anyone make MDF ones? If I do use the plastic ones should I still use threaded inserts? I have some knukonceptz 0awg wiring but I think that will be silly overkill. I am looking for speakers but I think I am looking for an older/cheaper genesis/PG etc amp. This build is pretty budget conscious but the money saved by me doing it myself will be ploughed into better equipment Talkaudio used to be a great place to get second hand stuff but since they changed to classifieds it doesn't seem as busy. I will keep checking around though. Don't worry I will have many questions to come I'm sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trx 33 Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 Defo wouldn't go for rivets. Just a pain in the arse to get out.Rivnuts, slightly different to rivets, they are nuts that secure into place using the same principle as a rivet. The rivnut is screwed onto a mandrel which gets pulled as the head of the rivnut is held in place, this collapses the nut like a rivet. Rivnuts are like threaded inserts for sheet metal, absolutely BRILLIANT things for audio installs, in particular securing woofer boxes and boot builds to the floor of the car. You can either buy a tool to set them or make your own (i made my own) they are very simple to make, just a couple of washers, a bolt and a nut.Threaded inserts are for wood only. Plastic rings should come with fitting instructions i presume? MDF rings would be the best i would say because you can tailor them to your needs. I am torn between the rivnuts and just using bolts, washers and nuts to secure the rings to the doors in my build, but it's up to you what you choose to do. There is no one right way to do it, its just personal preference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted May 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 Cheers mate I will check them out. Also another thing I know im needing info for everything. On the power cable I will need 2 ring terminals and a fuse. For the speakers how is the best way to connect then to the speakers? Crimp then with some spade connectors, solder or something else? Crossovers will go above passengers feet under the dash slightly. That's where they where in my last arosa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete91 Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 For the speaker cable I just crimped them onto a ring connector so that they would never fall out of the crossover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted May 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 Good idea. Spade connector for the speakers or solder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete91 Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 Yeah use a female spade for the speakers. What I do for every connection is strip 15mm of the plastic off, twist the copper, tin it with the solder and then crimp the connector on. If you want to go balls out, go for gold or silver plated connectors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted May 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2013 Ok so. Got a headunit. Looking currently for an amp. Don't know what but what ever is decent and cheap. About 50-100wrms each side. Speakers again looking for something cheap/second hand. 6.5" comps. Cables. How much power cable and speaker cable do you think I will roughly need? About 2-2.5m of 4awg power and about 0.5m of earth and about 5-6metres of speaker wire? Since it will be speaker wire from the amp to the xovers then to the speakers or is that too much or not enough? How long do I need the rca's to be roughly? Cabling will be a mix between stuff I have which is knukonceptz stuff and other cheap bits and bobs. Altough I always try and use good wire and especially good RCA's but if it works out a fair bit cheaper and I can do it I would make my own. Need to find out what size the ring terminals I will need but will probably wait till the kit turns up first so I can double check. but are they usually standard sizes like 10mm and 6mm?Also I'm fairly new to electronics lol I know but why tin and crimp the wire? I have only really ever just crimped stuff is that wrong? Also 16awg speaker wire ok or overkill?Please note I really do appricate the advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted May 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 (edited) Small update. Budget is going well. Picked up an alpine ida305, 12" diamond sub and box and a dls amp for under £150. Edited May 25, 2013 by Dblock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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