Skezza Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 (edited) I bought one of the remote central locking kits. Decided to go for the one with the small but quite fashionable remotes that aren't attached to the key, rather than the flip key one. Don't know why, but after reading peoples woes with the flip keys rattling and stuff, I figured I'd save myself the hassle.From reading various RClick + Central locking in general threads, I noticed people were not clear what to do with the boot release trigger. I too have this (didn't think about it when I bought it) so I just wondered what inventive things people had used them for? Flashing the headlights I saw but no-one put which wire to connect too for that.Is it actually possible to wire into the boot so it just unlocks the boot? Seems pointless because the boot opens on CL on mine, so kind of seems a redundant feature lol!Also, I spotted that to wire the indicators in required going under the steering column, can I do this when I attach the box to the side of the fuse box? Edited February 24, 2013 by Skezza Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete91 Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Also, I spotted that to wire the indicators in required going under the steering column, can I do this when I attach the box to the side of the fuse box?Are you meaning to get the headlights flashing when you lock/unlock the car?If you are then i did it slightly differently cos i figured it would be easier. The way i did it was by splicing it into the cable behind the hazard light switch.Not sure if that's what you're asking about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted February 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Are you meaning to get the headlights flashing when you lock/unlock the car?If you are then i did it slightly differently cos i figured it would be easier. The way i did it was by splicing it into the cable behind the hazard light switch.Not sure if that's what you're asking about?Erm, well. I'm not sure as I haven't fitted it yet I just saw most people said the indicators flash when they get it to unlock, but obviously this is a feature you have to wire in. I read in another thread that it was necessary to connect those from the bottom of the steering column, not down by the bonnet release pull, I was just checking I didn't have to remove the entire steering column lol. Otherwise I'd just leave them not flashing because that sounds like an absolute nightmare. Although flashing headlights would be a good compromise, any really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete91 Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 meant to say indicators not headlights...my bad!Yeah to get the indicators to flash most people seem to use the wires in the colum. You won't need to remove the whole column...just remove the plastic trim around it and you'll see the wires you need. All it is holding it together is two t20 torx screws and one larger torx (can't remember the size) and it'll pull apart.For mine though i just took out the center consol (again, really easy to do) and spliced it into the hazard light switch. I did it this way cos i wasn't brave enough to go cutting and splicing wires in the column but it work perfect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeA Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Did you already have central locking and fit remote r have you gone for motors too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted February 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 (edited) Yeah I already have central locking. I am just fitting the remote part.I might just fit the main remote unit to begin with. I'm a bit you know, reluctant to start splicing wires in the column, but I didn't want to take the entire centre console out either. I haven't really got enough time today to do that now What a bugger, should have started earlier. erm, ok, will go and remove the bonnet release pull and the piece of trim below the dash so I can start placing it and what not. If I just get the remote part working that'd be really cool today, then I could always sort the indicators another day I guess. Edited February 24, 2013 by Skezza Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted February 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Well that was a total ****ing disaster. Got the trim off, got down to the plug, scotchclipped the wires, was sure it would work. Nope. Nothing. Not even a click. Neither lock nor unlock worked so I've removed it and given up lol. I thought about bullet clipping but that requires me to start chopping wires in half and I wasn't sure if I'd make it worse. #pussy.Does anyone in the Stafford, Stoke, Cheshire area fancy doing it for me, I'll pay if you give me a quote?Otherwise, I can see me going some auto-electrician and them turning round saying "nah, we only fit our kit, £200 **** face" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeA Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 My auto electrician is based in Buckley north Wales and would do it for £50 or less iirc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted February 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 (edited) Joe, could you PM me his details. It's a little further than I was going to travel, but if he's good it would probably be worth it.The problem is, at least from my perspective, I have no way of actually testing if the box is working. It doesn't have an LED on. Some of them do, but this one doesn't, so how am I supposed to know if it even works :'( I've opened it up, it's only 4 screws and it looks pretty simple inside, just a fairly bog standard PCB with a few connections and what looks to be the receiver, nothing too extreme.Can anyone think of a fairly foolproof way of testing if this box actually works, because like I said, no LED Edited February 24, 2013 by Skezza Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeA Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 A multi meter would test if you have power, once power is confirmed, you can test if the box is sending a signal down the wires when the unlock button is pressed etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted February 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 (edited) A multi meter would test if you have power, once power is confirmed, you can test if the box is sending a signal down the wires when the unlock button is pressed etc.I've removed it from the car for the moment. The box and wires were obviously exposed and with it not working I felt it might be a really bad idea to leave it as it was, so I removed the box and tucked the wires back in. It's a job for an auto-electrician, but testing the box I need to do, and I will have to do it outside of the car.What kind of voltage or current, should I be looking for? Like when the Lock signal is triggered, is there a 12v trigger or something? I will meter it outside the car and I can't see why that wouldn't work...If I'd gone for the RightClick one everyone goes on about with the flip key, that has an LED on the main unit lol, would have certainly made diagnosing it a lot easier. I don't know if it's worth simply buying one of those as well haha. Edited February 24, 2013 by Skezza Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeA Posted February 25, 2013 Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 Just look for activity, anything really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skezza Posted February 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 (edited) Just look for activity, anything really.I'm going to hook it up to a powerblock sometime when I get an opportunity. Like, I don't have any reason to believe that the box isn't working, but it's a case of, there is no way of actually knowing and without an LED, the task is 10x harder. So yeah, the plan is, I'll get a multimeter out and a powerblock with 12v on, then I'll look for a 12v signal on the door unlock and lock. That should be enough to tell me whether it's ****ed or whether I wired it up wrong to begin with.The only other thing is whether it's to do with the remotes not being paired. Apparently, the box has to learn remotes, but I have absolutely no idea how to set that off, so I've e-mailed the seller lol.Will let you know I may end up asking for a refund on this one if I decide it's ****-diddily-ed up and just going for the bog standard right click one everyone was looking at. Just didn't fancy the flip key lol! Edited February 25, 2013 by Skezza Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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