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brakes, wheels and all things nice


silvio
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Hi all

Now I have fixed by clunking doors and upgraded the speakers, its time to think about improving the braking power. To be honest I am worried that my rear brakes shows are non existent as it sounds a little bit like metal on metal :ouch:

I have the standerd 14" wheels that come with the 1.4 TDI

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And I would like to keep them but I want to do the 280mm disk upgrade, but changing the carriers and disks and keeping my current callipers.

Question 1 - Will I have to get 15" wheels or will my current 14" ones clear the brakes?

Dose anyone have a set of carriers for sale that I can buy? I have seen some sets / kits on ebay but they are all looking a bit on the rusty side as they have come off cars from the early 90s. This would not bother me if I just bought carriers but they are selling callipers with them also and not sure how good 20 year old callipers will perform.

Question 2 - Is there a noticeable difference in stopping power if I upgrade the callipers to G60s also instead of keeping my 256 (1.4 DTI) callipers?

Question 3 - Will any steel / alloy wheels with an stud pattern of 4x100 fit over the G60 brakes?

Also I think one of my wheel bearings are on the way out at the front, is this something that can by done at home or is it a non DIY job?

Thanks for you help

Silvio

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I was just thinking, if I was to put spacers on the front to make the wheel come further out would that work? if its just the wheel touching the carriers then I think it might but it its the disk touching the top of the disk or calliper then I guess it wont.

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Get some carbone lorraine pads from kamracing and some brembo high carbon discs. Cheaper than doing a g60 conversion and give over 2 g of braking power. Enough to put abs on at crazy speeds. Also last and incredibly long time. Wouldn't have to change wheels as you're running standard disc size. No fade until over 1000 deg c, work from cold and the more you brake the more they grip. Seriously I don't understand why more people don't do this for good braking.

My friend has a set on his clio and my stomach nearly fell out of my mouth when we tried them out

Edited by grazo22
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Well after buying some brake carriers (not ever arrived yet) and looking for some 15" wheels to fit over 280mm disks, I am talking my self out of it,

Its going to cost me a good 300 - 500 all in and I just cant justify spending that money when I have a new baby on the way.

I will need to check out the front pads and rear shoes and just have to get them replaced.

Is there any one in the Cheshire area willing to help me replace them to cut costs down? was thinking new pads and rear shoes and replace brake fluid should make a big difference.

Dose anyone want to buy some 280m carriers :thumbsup:

Edited by silvio
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http://www.kamracing.co.uk/car-tuning/volkswagen/vw-lupo/brakes/brake-pads/vw-lupo-1-6-16v-1-4-tdi-1-4-16v-100hp-cl-brakes-rc5-front-brake-pads.html

http://www.kamracing.co.uk/vw-lupo-1-4-16v-100hp-1-4-tdi-256x20mm-brembo-front-brake-discs.html

Give the brake changing a go yourself as it's mega easy. Just wip the carrier off the hub, take the disc off, take the pads out, push the piston back (with a lever of some sort) and then put new pads in, new disc on then bolt all back on.

People are scared of doing the brakes but if in doubt just use loads of loctite and do it all as tight as possible.

Bleeding the brakes is very easy with a gunsons eazi bleed, use this all the time, quick and easy, 200ml from each nipple and 100 from the clutch and the fluid will be changed

I'm changing my discs and pads at the weekend if you want me to take some pics :)

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Right here are my pics from the weekend.

To change the brakes in about 20 mins a side.

  1. Jack up the car and take the wheel off WP_002793.jpg
  2. Undo the caliper sliders bolts that you can see me pointing at WP_002794.jpg
  3. Take the caliper out and with rubber grease clean and lube up the slider pins WP_002802.jpgWP_002796.jpg
  4. Remove pads
  5. 17mm remove the carrier WP_002798.jpg
  6. Remove disc retaining screw and take off the disc WP_002800.jpg
  7. Push back the piston using a clamp or something (no screw on front pistons) and clean up the movement surfaces for the pads and carriers WP_002806.jpg
  8. Clean up hub
  9. Put on new disc after removing protective oil and put in retaining screw, doesn't need to be tight as it's only used when the wheel is off. WP_002807.jpg
  10. Bolt carrier on
  11. Insert pads, put some copper slip on the back of the pad WP_002809.jpg
  12. Bolt the caliper back on, don't do the slider bolts too tight as the caliper won't move back and forth freely. Do it tight enough though, use your discretion man!! WP_002810.jpg
  13. Wheel back on then do the other side.

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