Lowering Guide

[TWL]

Ive been trying to find a lowering guide on here and cant find it anywhere, ive tried to search for it but the search doesnt seem to pick it up? can any1 help please?

cheers

[Tan_zam]

You can do it in 2 ways:

1. Lowering springs (cheap and not very good for ride)

2. Coilovers (expensive but improve ride and can be adjustable)

If you dont know much about cars, you will need to get them fitted by a garage.

P.S I think I have some lowering springs in my shed, PM me if you want them

[marcusgrant]

^ Coilovers rairly improve the ride, better handling though sure.

[CopeyCupra]

you can get TA technics which are quite cheap but be prepared to feel everything!

handles awesome though

[PaperWeight1]

Fitting is easily DIYable if you have some basic tools - it's only 4 bolts.

A couple of hours is all it'll take first time round, less if you're doing coilovers.

[Ralphy]

Why do u want a lowering guide can i ask ? The is a guide to fit coilovers thats about it !

Edited April 22, 2010 by Ralphy

[PaperWeight1]

The only difference is you have to compress the standard springs on the front struts and undo the top nuts. That's it.

[TWL]

Ive already got a kit, bilstein b10, ive got all the tools needed to do the job, i just wanted a guide just to use as a reference, are there any tourque setting that are needed on the bolts?

[PaperWeight1]

Probably, but I don't know them off the top of my head. Just do them up tight

Jack car up.

Axle stands.

Open bonnet.

Remove wheels.

Remove strut top plastic covers.

Undo top nut (think it's a 21mm).

You can wizz it off if you have a windy gun if not get torx/allen head, put it in the middle of the strut to stop it spinnint and use an offset spanner to undo the nut.

Undo lower 2 suspension bolts.

Unclip any hoses.

Remove strut.

Get your spring compressors, tighten them up till the tension is released from the sprint (should be a gap between top mount and spring).

Get a deep 21mm and wizz the nut off with a windy gun or do as per the other nut on the strut top and use an offset spanner.

Remove top mount and housing.

Remove spring.

Release tension.

Refitting is reversal of removal although you can normally get away with fitting new springs without any need for spring compressors (get a mate to press down on them as you do the nut up).

When refitting shock put it in place and put the top plate and nut back on first then do the bottom 2 bolts.

Pull the disc towards you or push the strut away then do the bolts up tight.

Once done clip things back into place, wheel on, drop the car and do the top nut up properly (it's easier this way IMO).

If you don't pull the disc towards you or push the strut away the camber will be different on both sides.

If the camber looks off (you can check it with a digital angle finder when parked on level ground but if it's miles out you can see visually), remove wheels again and re-do the bottom bolt alignment.

Rears jack the car up.

Remove inner plastics so you can see the top of the shocks.

Undo bottom shock bolts.

Rear beam will drop.

Pull springs out.

Fit the rubbers to the new springs.

Go inside the boot.

5 or 6mm allen key in the top of the strut to stop it spinning, spanner (19mm maybe, can't remember) and undo the nut.

Remove shocks.

Build up new shocks with the spacer, boot, rubber mount etc.

Refitting is reversal of removal.

When putting the bottom shock bolts in it's easier to lower the car a little so the wheels are on the floor and the rear beam goes up into place.

This stops the springs falling out and lines up the bolt holes easier.

Get your tracking done a couple of days afterwards as it'll be out and kill your tyres.

Edited April 22, 2010 by richie.guy

[TWL]

ok, thats whatt i was going to do, but just thought id ask first, cheers

[PaperWeight1]

Above is a rough guide I probably forgot some things but most of it's self explanitory when you're doing it.

[99hjhm]

Richie.guy's guide is good. The rear damper shaft needs holding with a 7 or 8mm spanner, think the nut is 16mm.

If you have new front struts, you can remove the top nut then the one below the plate, then refit the top nut again before taking the strut off the car, makes removing the spring/top mount easier.

[PaperWeight1]

Bilsteins must be different they're a 5 or 6mm allen head for the shaft and 17mm for the nut (although some are 16mm it seems).

My replacements were 17mm's and originals were 16mm's. Popped after a couple of months hence the replacements!

[TWL]

Thanks, that was just what i was after, just a reference guide, im just hoping that thers no seized bolts, ive just checked the front dampers and the shaft has a 7mm allan, with a 22mm nut at the top?

[99hjhm]

Thanks, that was just what i was after, just a reference guide, im just hoping that thers no seized bolts, ive just checked the front dampers and the shaft has a 7mm allan, with a 22mm nut at the top?

21mm, I used a sparkplug socket with hex flats on the out side of it and a 7mm brake type allen key through the hole, I found it easier that way.

[mat.m.]

My top mounts were solid, used wurth rost off to help. I used a dog leg 21mm spanner and went to halfords (as i knew i was going to snap something, tools come with lifetime warranty) and bought a set of sockets, snapped 2 sets, but 3rd time lucky they came undone. Takes few hours to get it done, just take your time and take plenty of photos, this will help you remember the order you took things off.