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dirk1978

Changing rear discs and pads

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I started to do this but left it for today because I can't get a wheel nut off so left it soaking. But is this correct?

I assume the handbrake needs to be left off so need to chock the front wheels?

Then it looks like take the 2 13mm nuts off the pistons, and then unbolt the carrier with 8mm hex head. How does the handbrake cable disconnect or is it obvious?

If I want to clean and paint the calipers and carriers how do I block up the brake pipe to stop fluid coming out?

Finally, unrelated, my 500nm impact driver won't loosen a stuckw wheel bolt. I'm leaving it to soak overnight but I've only got gt85. Is anything else e.g. wd40 specialist penetrant much better?

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1 hour ago, dirk1978 said:

I assume the handbrake needs to be left off so need to chock the front wheels? Yes

Then it looks like take the 2 13mm nuts off the pistons  Brake sliders pry the pads off the disk and lift the caliper away, and then unbolt the carrier with 8mm hex head -I seem to recall the disc can come off without taking the carrier off. there is a retaining screw holding the disc on, they can sometimes be troublesome. How does the handbrake cable disconnect or is it obvious? can be removed by pulling on the ball and pressing the arm down, but this is not needed for brake discs & pads change - if you are keeping it attached do not let it hang off the flexy, support it with cable tie or wire coat hanger

If I want to clean and paint the calipers and carriers how do I block up the brake pipe to stop fluid coming out? -you can paint them on the car, wire brush and mask off anything you don't want painted, hand brake cable

Finally, unrelated, my 500nm impact driver won't loosen a stuck wheel bolt. I'm leaving it to soak overnight but I've only got gt85. Is anything else e.g. wd40 specialist penetrant much better? GT85 is a lot better than WD40 - I don't think anything would be able to penetrate past the alloy, the disc and then into the hub, don't think that would work - just get a breaker bar on it -then put your weight on it - scaffolding bar also helps

Replies in Blue - I suspect you would be better off leaving the caliper connected.

Hammerite smooth seems to be the best paint to use, great coverage and performance - from a recent experience with Halfords caliper paint I would not recommend that product.

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Thank you. My breaker bar with some pipe is about 4 feet long so far and it's not shifting it. I'll have another go with the impact driver in the morning. If no good I'll have to source some scaffolding pole.

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Only use the following as a last gasp option  -

Ever struggled to undo a crank pulley bolt with socket and bar?  - socket on bolt, breaker touching ground and using the cranking of the engine to undo the bolt

Found this as an example - 

With care  - the same thing can be done with stuck wheel bolts, but instead of chassis leg put the breaker bar on the grund, only need to drive the car a few inches in direction to undo the bolt - best to have a second pair of eyes watching the wheel

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:( properly mashed the wheel bolt trying that. I've done it plenty of times on crank bolts and it sounded a good idea for this. This time the front of the car just lifted off the ground a bit and rounded off the wheel bolt. Not sure how that comes off now.

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And now been round Jefferies tyres where they got a long rigid pipe on it with a tight 17mm socket and bounced up and down on the end of the pole. Eventually cracked it off. 

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Glad your sorted now - did you get someone to hold the socket on? sound like it just twisted off

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16 minutes ago, LR5V said:

Glad your sorted now - did you get someone to hold the socket on? sound like it just twisted off

Nah, that'd be far too easy. Always have to do things by myself. Especially so at the moment.

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