StuM

Did this myself in the end, hope it helps someone.. http://www.funkybear.co.uk/arosa/lupoArosaWindowWiring.htm

Hi All, My Elsawin for my Arosa has circuit diagrams for the electric windows that are completely different to what the car actually has. I've managed to get hold of the wiring for the Lupo driver's side window and that matches what I have. Does anyone have a circuit diagram / wiring diagram for a Lupo passenger (left) side window that they could share with me? Many thanks in advance for your help. Regards, Stu

Hi there, Sorry, never did find out. I rang Wimbledon Autos, but they wanted £80 to just look at the car, so I lost interest at that point! We hardly use ours, and now just live with it. I found that if you lift off the throttle just as it is about to change up, and don't apply throttle until it is in 2nd gear, it is ok. Not ideal in all situations, I know. I 'threw away' £130 getting Seat to change the gearbox oil which failed to cure it. If you do find out what's wrong, I'd be interested to hear. Thanks, Stu

Thanks all. Will go for the grease, followed by volume control option!

Hi All, Our 1998 1.4MPI Arosa has very creaky seats - everytime you go around a corner, it occurs as weight is put on that part of the seat. Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas where to look to try to resolve? There are a few sets of seats around for sale, but if that won'r resolve the issue, I don't want to waste time/money... Many thanks, Stu

If that doesn't solve it, it could be the regulator - mine made a load of horrid cracking/crunching noises before my window jammed. There's a good guide here: Window Reg Refurb - clicky

Very common - I've heard that the regulators on these have a 45% failure rate! Stripped mine down the other night. The symptom was that it would crack and crunch as you lowered the window. Basically, there are metal cables that are routed around various plastic wheels - including the main spool that is powered by the motor and winds up the cables. On ours, the cable had chewed up that spool. If you are lucky, it will just need relubing. There is a guide in this thread: Clicky Cheers, Stu

Quite right - VR6 is a mixture of m-ways and town. I do give ours a few long trips every now and then too. Cheers, Stu

Thanks for that - reassuring to know.. and glad the car only does 5-6k a year! My mate is finding this all very hilarious as he gets 29 out of his Golf VR6. Cheers, Stu

Hey All, Just stumbled across this thread looking to see what folks were getting. We've got a 1.4 MPI Auto and in all town driving, we're currently getting.... wait for it... 27.6MPG. Not especially impressive. It was serviced at Seat <4000 miles ago, so plugs etc should be all good. O2 sensor was replaced <6m ago. Exhaust is a bit boomy - someone told me "they all do this", but I reckon it's worth a look. Any other suggestions? Cheers, Stu

LOL

Hi All, An update... Throttle body removed by garage as they thought that there was a good chance that the 'squirt carb cleaner in top' method wouldn't have got all gunk out and that the TB was the likely cause. It was totally clean. So... plugged into a code reader and it is throwing up an error code on the O2 sensor. Closer investigation shows that the O2 sensor is not the original one and is a non-VAG part. It has also been wired in badly. So, new O2 sensor on its way, so fingers crossed that sorts it out. When the car idles, if extra load is placed (eg. power steering) the butterfly valve in the TB should open up to increase idle speed. My guess is that the O2 sensor fails to report this change in mixture correctly, and thus the mixture stays too lean - causing it to judder. Theories are great, but let's see if it holds true! Cheers Stu

That's similar to the one that I bought for our Arosa - still sitting in the box waiting for time to do it! I believe that the central locking in the Arosa is 'negative trigger' - which should help you. When you see the wiring diagram that comes with the kit there will be different wiring depending on the type. Cheers, Stu

Great, thanks - I'll stop looking now Air temp sensor is presumably the little copper device in the air intake. Cheers, Stu

Hi All, Can anyone tell me where the MAF (air flow meter) is on a '98 1.4MPI Arosa? Many thanks, Stu

Hi all, As per the thread title - I have bought a remote central locking control unit. It looks easy enough to connect up, but I need to know if the central locking on my 98 Arosa 1.4MPI is positive or negative trigger... Many thanks in advance, Stu

Thanks - I've done this at times... would be wary of suggesting this technique to SWMBO though (it's her car) - as a novice driver I can imagine it might confuse matters in an expensive way! I might give the wynns another go and have a look at the throttle body again, just in case. Is the idle controlled from the ECU? Cheers, Stu

Cheers for this. Yes, a couple of months ago I cleaned the throttle body out and ran some Wynns injector cleaner through in the fuel - and it did run better. At that time it was stalling easily when cold (even when in Neutral) and the cleaning sorted this out. Now it starts and runs fine, but put it in gear and move around with few/no revs and it stalls - a ballache when parking etc as being an auto means no balancing of throttle/clutch to avoid it! It idle at 600-700rpm or so which is way slower than any other car I've owned... Cheers, Stu

Hi All, Does anyone know how easy/difficult it is to adjust the idle on a 1998 1.4 MPI Auto Arosa? Ours ticks over VERY slowly which seems to result in it struggling when manoeuvring around slowly in gear. Put on the air-con and it stalls very easily. Thanks, Stu

Hi All, One suggestion that was made to me to help with the 1-2 gearchange issue was to change the gearbox oil. The car went into Seat for its 70k mile service last weekend and they also changed the gearbox oil.... and it made no difference. I might get it booked into Wimbledon Autos for their opinion. Cheers, Stu

Hi Adrian, Sorry for not getting back to you earlier - I got an e-mail notification for your latest reply, but not the earlier one - guess it was spam filtered out or something... Thanks for the info, all of which is very useful. Please do let me know if you get to the bottom of the 1st-2nd change issue.. whilst I try and avoid the thud (by lifting right off until it changes up), that is not always possible.. and I do fear that damage could occur. If it can be sorted easily, I'll definately get it along to Wimbledon - my other car is on the market at the moment and the Arosa will be our only car for a time, so I'd love to make it 100%. Cheers, Stu

Hello, Just thought I'd post up to say that after cleaning out the throttle body, putting some Wynns injector cleaner through (in the petrol) and having a couple of decent long runs, the car is now running very well. To update the other issues... drivers door lock now doesn't work at all and having taken the door cards off I realised that there is no easy way to see what the problem is The auto box is still banging into 2nd gear - an auto box specialist I spoke to suggested it might be a sensor that has broken - and that it would need to be plugged into a diagnostic machine. Can anyone advise me of a decent Seat dealer in SW London please? I know that there is one in Wimbledon, but can't find any 'reviews'. Also.. would VW dealers work on an Arosa? There is one very close to me... Thanks Stu

My engine code is printed on my V5... Cheers, Stu

Hi All, We bought our 98 Arosa 1.4 Auto (66k miles) a couple of months back and are generally really pleased with it, but there are a few problems of late that you might be able to help with.... 1. The exhaust has always been noisy - top gear at 65mph on the motorway it is really noisy, loud drone. Sounds to me like it might be blowing a bit, but someone told me that they "all sound like that". I don't believe this for a second, do you agree? 2. The central locking is stubborn. On the passenger side it is always ok, but drivers side it always unlocks, but often only locks the drivers door - leaving passenger side unlocked. Recently, it has started randomly trying to unlock the doors (which are already unlocked!) as I've been driving it! Any ideas?! The service history shows that many of the central locking parts were changed by the owner before last. 3. The car is an auto and when it is cold the 1st to 2nd gear change is always very 'hard' - ie. thumps in very harshly. Once warmed up it is very smooth. All other changes are fine. 4. The final and most urgent problem is that the car went in for MOT last week, and past fine... from that evening onwards (and it must be coincidence..) the car has had starting issues. Basically, it turns over and fires fine, but won't idle and then cuts out. If I use the throttle and keep revs on, it is fine, but being an auto, as soon as it is put in gear, it cuts out. Once warmed up, no problem.. and it runs fine. The car was very low on fuel the first time that this happened, so I am thinking fuel filter maybe? Other things I have found on here are clogged up throttle body and coolant temperature sensor. Which of these would you try first? How easy is it to get to the throttle body to give it a carb cleaner squirt? Sorry for the barrage of questions, and thanks in advance for any help you might be able to offer. Cheers, Stu

Hi All, We've got a 1998 Seat Arosa 1.4 Auto to compliment my '05 Skoda Fabia vRS. I've been around for a little while on seatcupra.net, but am now here to pester you with questions too Cheers, Stu