StuM
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Currently Driving
Seat Arosa 1.4 Auto 1998, 2003 VW Bora V5, VW T3 Transporter 1985
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Did this myself in the end, hope it helps someone.. http://www.funkybear.co.uk/arosa/lupoArosaWindowWiring.htm
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Hi All, My Elsawin for my Arosa has circuit diagrams for the electric windows that are completely different to what the car actually has. I've managed to get hold of the wiring for the Lupo driver's side window and that matches what I have. Does anyone have a circuit diagram / wiring diagram for a Lupo passenger (left) side window that they could share with me? Many thanks in advance for your help. Regards, Stu
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StuM started following Wiring/Circuit Diagram for Lupo Electric Windows
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1.4 Auto Arosa - starting problem, central locking woes, auto box and exhaust!
StuM replied to StuM's topic in Seat Arosa
Hi there, Sorry, never did find out. I rang Wimbledon Autos, but they wanted £80 to just look at the car, so I lost interest at that point! We hardly use ours, and now just live with it. I found that if you lift off the throttle just as it is about to change up, and don't apply throttle until it is in 2nd gear, it is ok. Not ideal in all situations, I know. I 'threw away' £130 getting Seat to change the gearbox oil which failed to cure it. If you do find out what's wrong, I'd be interested to hear. Thanks, Stu -
Thanks all. Will go for the grease, followed by volume control option!
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Hi All, Our 1998 1.4MPI Arosa has very creaky seats - everytime you go around a corner, it occurs as weight is put on that part of the seat. Has anyone else experienced this? Any ideas where to look to try to resolve? There are a few sets of seats around for sale, but if that won'r resolve the issue, I don't want to waste time/money... Many thanks, Stu
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If that doesn't solve it, it could be the regulator - mine made a load of horrid cracking/crunching noises before my window jammed. There's a good guide here: Window Reg Refurb - clicky
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Very common - I've heard that the regulators on these have a 45% failure rate! Stripped mine down the other night. The symptom was that it would crack and crunch as you lowered the window. Basically, there are metal cables that are routed around various plastic wheels - including the main spool that is powered by the motor and winds up the cables. On ours, the cable had chewed up that spool. If you are lucky, it will just need relubing. There is a guide in this thread: Clicky Cheers, Stu
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Quite right - VR6 is a mixture of m-ways and town. I do give ours a few long trips every now and then too. Cheers, Stu
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Thanks for that - reassuring to know.. and glad the car only does 5-6k a year! My mate is finding this all very hilarious as he gets 29 out of his Golf VR6. Cheers, Stu
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Hey All, Just stumbled across this thread looking to see what folks were getting. We've got a 1.4 MPI Auto and in all town driving, we're currently getting.... wait for it... 27.6MPG. Not especially impressive. It was serviced at Seat <4000 miles ago, so plugs etc should be all good. O2 sensor was replaced <6m ago. Exhaust is a bit boomy - someone told me "they all do this", but I reckon it's worth a look. Any other suggestions? Cheers, Stu
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Hi All, An update... Throttle body removed by garage as they thought that there was a good chance that the 'squirt carb cleaner in top' method wouldn't have got all gunk out and that the TB was the likely cause. It was totally clean. So... plugged into a code reader and it is throwing up an error code on the O2 sensor. Closer investigation shows that the O2 sensor is not the original one and is a non-VAG part. It has also been wired in badly. So, new O2 sensor on its way, so fingers crossed that sorts it out. When the car idles, if extra load is placed (eg. power steering) the butterfly valve in the TB should open up to increase idle speed. My guess is that the O2 sensor fails to report this change in mixture correctly, and thus the mixture stays too lean - causing it to judder. Theories are great, but let's see if it holds true! Cheers Stu
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That's similar to the one that I bought for our Arosa - still sitting in the box waiting for time to do it! I believe that the central locking in the Arosa is 'negative trigger' - which should help you. When you see the wiring diagram that comes with the kit there will be different wiring depending on the type. Cheers, Stu
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Great, thanks - I'll stop looking now Air temp sensor is presumably the little copper device in the air intake. Cheers, Stu
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Hi All, Can anyone tell me where the MAF (air flow meter) is on a '98 1.4MPI Arosa? Many thanks, Stu