LincolnLupo

Really?? :shock: I didn't think that was too bad considering it was the first insurance in my name and I'd only been driving a year by that point (too lazy to do my test, was easier + cheaper to get taxis). This is a 100 bhp sport after all - as a first car that's quite quick. If it was £1200 in your own name and £710 in my name I'd have thought that'd be about right based on age difference and the insurance companies' perceived risk. As I said I could have got it loads cheaper under someone elses insurance as a named driver but I needed to build up no claims

which bit doesn't make sense? I'll be 24 in 6 days time if that makes a difference to what you're asking

yep, norwich union for me.

you're only 1?? :? lol I could have got it cheaper through parents insurance but needed to build up some no claims so I could move on to a GTI and beyond. HOWEVER if that isn't a concern for you then yes you can get it really, really cheap straight from passing your test. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

For anyone interested in the MW180 there's some more info here... http://www.dynaudiousa.com/products/car/driver.htm The explanation of the drivers internals here gives a good idea of why these subs sound so good... http://www.dynaudiousa.com/products/car/en...engineering.htm All the Dynaudio car speaker range is built to the same exacting standards as their insanely expensive home & studio monitoring speakers! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

001 Mobile seem to be very cheap and had no probs when I ordered from them, they do have a website but you can't buy online (need to ring them). http://www.001mobile.com/ Sell Dynaudio subs at stupidly low prices (my MW180 (10 inch) cost me just £105 inc vat!) should be about £300 and from an SQ point of view £300 would still have been cheap!

Very Nice! Who moulded that lower door card for you? Looks like they did a high quality job!

hi, I think it was turn key to fully off position, press and hold milage reset button, turn key to on position and keep button pressed in for about 20 secs then let go. The previous post about the service light worked for me, mine came on about 1000 miles after my service as not reset properly.

one more thing, if you're planning on pointing it sideways it doesn't fit. A friend of mine had one and tried to convince me to buy it by showing me how small it would be in my boot before he sold it. It fits in fine firing backwards though which most reviews said was the best position although it takes up the same room as my current sub box with amp on top when pointed that way (lose about half the boot). The main market for it though is to get effective bass in your boot in no time with little experience, so sounds about right for you. might want to read this... http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/`ISE...ss_reviews.html You'll have difficulties finding a black one though as they're no longer made and the clear ones look a bit cr@p if you ask me.

OK, I can just about guarentee that eveyone will tell you that it's terrible or not value for money but if you pick one up cheap off ebay (about £100 or less) then they're great for adding a little more bass. Don't expect it to shake your car or anything but I've heard them in action and they're not all that bad. Certainly unless you substantially upgrade the amp and speakers for your front's / infinities this'll be of a good enough quality.

OK, I'm not really what you'd call an expert although I do have some idea on these things. I'm not personally a fan of 6x9s but I know some people like them so I'm not going to go into that one... to answer some of your questions... the amp you've linked to is a 3 channel amp that is basically designed for running some fronts (or your 6x9s) and a sub on the seperate channel. the amps are usually more powerful on the singular channel as it's needed for a sub which generally needs more power and also because most designs are really 4 channel amps with two channels permanently bridged into one to get three channels. this would mean that the singular channel for the bass will almost centainly be about twice as powerful (approx) as the other 2 channels. You could not bridge the two channels to get the sub and run the 6x9s off the other channel as you would need 2 channels to run them in order to get a stereo output, you wouldn't want to either (see above) the price as you mentioned is very low but because of that I don't think I'd trust their specs too much (doesn't even list the outputs for each individual channel which is not a great sign), the cheaper amps never seem to get close to what they've claimed. I'd look at spending a little more on an amp that other people have tried and tested, you can still get 3 channel amps for not that much though these days. I'd ask tigz / loudlupo / tshirt2k - by the looks of it they've tried enough things to have an idea of what'll work well or not.

I've got that useless tim and tom design as well, I can't believe they released them as the sport seats - they must have been on drugs or something! (Either that or a really clever way of getting people to upgrade to the GTI when they released it?) My seats are quite clean and I've never had to wash them so I can't help you there, although I did buy some foam cleaner when I got the car in case they got dirty (looks like it'd work really well in theory). To be honest I almost considered getting them really dirty deliberately so I couldn't see the useless design!! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" />

I'd prefer to be able to wire it up the same as how the vw unit works now, ie can be used fine when the ignition is off and also when on. I rarely use the stereo with the car off but it'd be nice to be able to keep that "feature". Would I be right in thinking that the wires used on the back of the nak and also the vw car wires would be colour coded to be the same? eg to wire up stereo simply connect blue to blue, yellow to yellow etc, or is it not quite as simple as that? I think you said the earth would need to be connected to one of the wires on the connector thingy, what colour would it need to be connected to and how essential is this compaired to using another earth point? the earth connector has a large spade plug on it that I don't want to cut off and it may be awkward to be able to wire it in without doing so. this wouldn't create some nasty earth loop thing or something would it? any thing else I need to think of? thanks,

QUOTE(gargoil)QUOTE(LincolnLupo)...cr@ppy roads .....!! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" />take it you've never driven on our fun unqueued roads then!? I haven't personally but I've heard they're not too good. Had to travel up to glasgow and from there to Edinburgh I think a year ago with work, they weren't too great - always seemed to be 1 or 2 lanes tops. I was a passenger and half asleep though so maybe I just can't remember?? Roads around lincoln aren't all that bad actually and not too many queues as there's only about `200-250k` people in Lincoln I think??

If I bought about 6 boxes I think it'd work out cheaper to drive to Scotland buy them and drive back rather than buy them in Lincoln! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":(" border="0" alt="sad.gif" />

more likely to be because it's made up there and they can't transport it down properly because of your cr@ppy roads to be honest!! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" />

Maybe not but by the time I'd taken into account the much reduced price of buying bottles of Miller in Scotland I'd still find it cheaper to live there! Asda are always doing boxes of 24 at £10 (Scotland only), the best we get in the UK is a standard price of £4.50 for 4 bottles and cr@p offers if they even run any. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":(" border="0" alt="sad.gif" />

Ahh, Little bit far for me! Can't really be bothered to travel to Doncaster and I'll struggle to find time to get there, let alone Scotland. thanks for letting me know - for some reason everything seems to be cheaper in Scotland!

where are you based and where did you get them fitted? I've been trying to get some from top gear in doncaster for over 3 weeks now (live in lincoln but best price was £65 more than doncaster price - admittedly they still don't have them in yet though!)

ok, pics didn't work last time I tried (different subject + a few months back) so here's some links (first one fairly big) http://4fh.us/data/media/1/wires.JPG http://4fh.us/data/media/1/block.jpg I've now realised the mb100 just has wires instead of a connector, so I think this would work (bloke who owned it before me just chopped everything off)... cut off power iso from end of converter cable, attach blocks similar to pic 2 to all wires, use oposite side of blocks to wire up both head unit wires into the same screw hole (to run both head units off same power supply), cut off the speaker connector and clamp the wires into the speaker outputs of nak with amp that seem about right from looking at pics / using your knowledge of car audio? there's also a ground connector, is there a suitable screw to use behind the h/u bay or any suggestions? any help / other suggestions appreciated

that's what I thought snoopstah but the site insists I need both adapters to get one radio working. see http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_in...products_id=210 and http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product_in...products_id=211 the second one only seems to be needed if you have a vw.

just realised, looks like I'll be needing both those aerial adapters as well! the naks wont fit in the dash at this rate with all the crap behind them!

thanks tigz, that's a good start. One of the h/u (TD35z) with the amp has loose wires for all connections - speakers, power etc I think (looks like the yellow one on the adapter you found - wire with plastic around it). The MB100 I think takes a more normal looking connector like the adapter you've shown. Think I may have to chop off connector for speaker wires and wire to loose wire TD35z speaker outputs and cut power connector wires so I can add a connector block to run the power connector as well as being able to get a sperate wire output for the TD35z. Does that seem about right? (not easy to understand I know) I'll try and get some pics when I'm back after work, so much easier with pics. the audio side will be fine (understand this side perfectly), ultra simple here as well - output from mb100 will plug into aux in on TD35z. thanks

Need some pointers here guys from anyone who knows a bit on the car audio side. I need to wire up both my Nakamich h/u so I can use the 6 disk changer in the MB100 and the tape / amp in the TD35z to run speakers etc. I know I can just plug in the output from MB100 into aux of the TD35z but how do I wire up the power / speakers? I'd rather not rewire the iso plugs if I can so are there any adapters I can get to wire from one to the other? If not, what wire does what so I can rewire it properly? I've got just about all the bits I need for a full car audio install but with work being a bit mental these days and the weather about to take a turn for the worst I'm not looking to get everything in the car just yet (I'll prob wait until I've upgraded to a gti about march / april time then do it all then) HOWEVER I sold my VW 6 disk cd + gamma h/u ages ago and the lack of decent music is getting to me (using beta unit at moment), therefore I need to know what I need to do to get both my nakamichi h/u in! thanks everyone

just seen this on ebay for lupo / polo, out of my price range at the moment but maybe of interest to someone? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...4501895080&rd=1