tshirt2k

Are you gonna get some adapters or make some mdf ones? if so you could go for these, read about them and for the price they are meant to be ok. Ideally you want something with a high sensitivity if you are using the head unit to power them. Around 91dB or more. Or get a cheap amp and power them up.

or make your own like these mdf rings A good 1st mod would be to soundproof the doors I Have 8sqft of Damplifier pro in each door, they are solid. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":shades:" border="0" alt="shades.gif" />

To be honest, it sounds louder on the vid than in the flesh. Motorway speeds its not v loud. you can hear it when you floors it. But i have a bootfull of dynamat. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

Think i remember it costing £1300 on parts with discount. plus labour + Mods style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

Cat D, No suspension damage. Was alot of work involved but that was nearly 3 years ago. I fitted dash, airbags and airbag ecu, repaired by a friend. All Genuine parts from Stealer, as therer wasnt many GTis bein broken then.

Yep, that the pics of it in the salvage yard. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> For me i would say it was between Janspeed and bastuck, Janspeed won on tailpipe design and price.

This is how my 2001 lupo gti started out. This is the new dash and airbags installed. And this was almost complete. Love The Ride Height

some good info on cats here

Can you notice a power difference?. # If its only slight then i would say the combo of exhaust and manifold (and BMC) have really made a difference on mine style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

I think i could have the same problem. The front end seems a bit loose goin over certain bumps anyone else had this? was thinking of goin powerflex.! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":confused:" border="0" alt="confused.gif" />

Sound is nice! A nice burble not intrusive, haven't been on the motorway yet but its a sound that makes you want to rev it more. Doubt you can get it higher, unless you get them to bend the mounts that go through the rubbers. Cat back and It has a centre box. Tailpipes are flush with the top of the recess. £335 delivered Haven't since i had to bend in the inside of the arch style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

I thought that but it would prob be touching the bumper and heat shield. Doesnt look that low in the flesh. Might need to change the rubbers to make it better

Good on ya, style="vertical-align:middle" emoid="B)" border="0" alt="cool.gif" /> Very nice..

just purchased a Janspeed exhaust and put it on today! After opening the box and seeing the tailpipes i thought border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> Found, the car is more willing to rev, definately more torque. Feels and sounds like how it should have left the factory. With the Raceland manifold, BMC and standard system it had a sort of flat spot between 3 -4k and seem like it was a bit resricted. Seems alot better now

Had the rears done at R Tec. Running 8 x 16" ET27 195/45 tyres No paint probs amd they sealed it up. £90 Did Rub recently on one sid but at he bottom where they didnt start low enough. That was a full tank and a bumpy rd. I am set quite low.

heres a pic of of an eaton on a golf 16v engine not a loop but you get the idea border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" />

Looks good mate! I Would have thought you would need to brace that sub in a bit better!! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> Just bought one of those Subs from CAD With an Alpine Ported Box fo £99. To go in a Mk3 Golf. Looks quite well made. Was gonna go for the MRD 605 amp. Would have thught the 1005 would be a bit too much for the sub.

You would need all the looms and switches and prob' connect it int the fuseboard. You may even need some relays. Best to check wiring diagrams also.

yea beeps, autolocking above 15 KPH and unlocks on key removal, also choose wether indicators flash or not.

Sounds like alternator whine. You May be able to get a suppressor to stop it. Or try to reroute your RCAs. They shouldn't be near any power cable because magnetic interference can be induced easier when running alongside. OR Try to get some better quailty RCA's, I got some Twisted pair Ones made by Stinger.

i think its stored on an eeprom in the clocks. I have and can get hold of a program called vag tacho, it can program keys ,read eeprom data etc. Correct mileage Not sure if it can correct mileage on lupo but on golfs etc it can. If it can be used correctly it could possibly be used to rewrite eeprom data in clocks.

Remove old Tweets from your dash. Take out standard tweeters by cutting off plastic lugs. Hot Glue new tweeters into position.

Think its quite easy just a few clips around the edge AFAIK. Remember seeing in elsa. The seat backs are really easy. You just have to get the the headrest holders out first.

Just wondering as when i enquired about them they said they had sold out. Wanted to know what the production ones fitted like, Sound, Quality etc?? Not Tims prototype one.

Cheers mate! Bout time I got it Too style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":shades:" border="0" alt="shades.gif" />