CasperGTI

And what fuel do "N/A drag cars" use? i think the reason they have such small pipes on them is due to the temperature that nitro burns at.... (2400°C) It leaves the exhaust pipe at just under 1000°C! M7R - of course he will have issues with the EGR, the sensor is unplugged at the moment so its bound to be over fuelling, which will soot it up in no time. TBH the best bet is to get a post cat boss fitted and fit it back in to the system then save up for a remap, where you can delete the EGR all together and sort out the fuelling - problem solved. You never know, the original over fuelling might be to do with the pre cat lambda, i removed mine and cleaned it in turps when my check light came on, put it back in and it went away... Different people seem to have different results with de-cat and manifolds, some get faults... others don't. Down to the car in the end, each one will always be slightly different. John

I dont agree with you either. The post cat lambada is used to trim the fueling to achieve the correct lambda reading. Afterall lambda is the ratio of unburnt oxygen to unburnt fuel (hydrocarbons) as you should know an mot tests the lambda reading post cat. This is a closed loop system that normally is narrowband. The pre cat sensor is for air/fuel sensing which gives you the air/fuel reading the Ecu for the main fueling control. And the theory of getting air out as quick as possible isnt true in my eyes either, the engine relies on back pressure to force some unburnt fuel enriched gasses back in to the combustion chamber on overlap, enhancing the combustion process. On a turbo car this is different, but on an N/A car back pressure is a bit more crucial than most people think. Engines can infact perform worse. And cooper, it's not all about BHP.....

yeah heres two from the tunnel run done last year. On another note, something else has turned up. So my pile of car upgrade parts is getting larger, just need a few more! All will be revealed at some point soon i hope! John

Clutch aligned?

Ahhh that makes sense. I see another CBS user, they are great! bought all sorts from them over time. Im looking forward to getting the kit. It does look good, shame ive still got to build a garage before i can get the car over to fit it! John

Did a thread not start like this last year? people coming on here to vent because there upset something was said about there car, great stuff.... now grow up, its a car... and the world is not perfect..... grow a pair, most of you make your car as you want it because its the way you like it, who cares what other people think? Someone mentioned "keyboard warriors" again, one of the people venting about the forum and the stand?? contradicting yourself slightly there. Im pretty sure this forum is alot less scene that most others, heck what do you class as scene anyway? who knows the difference between scene or not? - answer is no one, they just use the word in context.... As is said on most threads like this, if you dont like the way the forum works, or the people on it then please dont use it, its really simple. And i guess most of your opinions are generated without actually meeting any of the "clique" as you call it. Maybe you should join in? your opinion will change. John

Looks good, I'm waiting for my pedal box at the moment. Same setup as yours. Any reason why you used a brake pressure switch rather than a pedal switch?

paulbin eaton supercharged 1.4

Un seize the boot lock. That's your best bet

Theres one for sale in the parts for sale section at the moment for £100. Given a good dip with new guides and stem seals and it will be as good as new.

Limp mode?? But the engine went all the way up to the limiter?? Limp mode is 2-3k isn it?

christ knows what that is rich. If money was not option for you, go to jenvey and get a TB from them? http://www.jenvey.co.uk/home/large-single-throttle-body

The throttle body I got off some car builders website, can't remember which one tbh, it fitted directly back on to my inlet manifold at the time, I then moved it and made my own adaptor plate for it. 3 pin tps sensor Idle air control valve I got from euro car parts or Camberly Autofactors. Someone like that, standard 2 pin iac valve.

Yeah I did mine, I'm using an emerald K6 now, bit was previously using the K3. What throttle are you using? By cable or by wire, I'm guessing cable. I would not like to play with the electronic version, there's too much to piss about with. What I did was convert to cable throttle using a readily available throttle body for kit cars. This had a standard pin assignment for the tps. I then bought an iac valve and plumbed that in to the system, again a readily available bosch valve. It made life alot easier. John

Going on the length of your bodies, you will be much better off getting an adaptor plate made up to fit them to the head, otherwise you might need to cut a rather large hole out of your bulkhead. John

Shims give you the adjustment, you can get camber and toe adjustment with one shim.

It's a fabia one

Ok i didnt sell them to veedubdude...... infact I'm currently struggling to remember who i sold them to!

Thats because you have a silver car...... Personally if i was me, i would ignore anything i do too...... I can't do anything right....

I bet you only get it on the RH side? that seems to be a GTi trait. If its really annoying you... why not fill the damper up with a few extra bumpstops..... LOL

You kids are funny. lets all calm down and play nice, Deadmetal i suggest you read the T&C's about the choice use of language, and then getting round the swear block.. is there any need?? unless it makes you feel any better... if it does you need to grow up. TBH, i had exactly the same experience with my KW's as cooper, i didnt make it too far, infact only 5 metres to the edge of my drive but i think i realised what happened, i jacked up one side at a time to remove the adjuster and adaptor.... not realising that doing so twisted the rear beam slightly which moved the other side spring out of place and given the slightest bump cocked it over.... I think a lot of weather its safe or not comes down to the length of the damper, as i hope most of you have noticed that the standard dampers on the rear are longer than aftermarket versions.... well maybe in good kits anyhow. The original spring sits in there with no problems, so why shouldn't an aftermarket one? Why remove them.... well it looks good, but IMO impractical and makes the car bounce round corners. John

Speak to veedubdude he might still have my old ones, thats if he hasn't used them. Other than that, your best bet is a scrap engine, i think there was one for sale on here just as a block. Have a search John

When I'm back at my parents next I'll pull out the bit o paper I had with the info on it. Mabe it was malhe that supply it? I'm sure I've seen them! And 4.50 for a m10 machine bolt??? WTF!! If your rebuilding yourself, I'd guess yo could do it for 500-600 without pistons, depends if your going genuine VW or not.

You sure martin? I spoke to i think it was john at your place last year and he told me there were oversized ones available?? I think aswell it talks about them being available in elsawin too, 1st and 2nd oversize they call it. John

Personally i wouldn't bother with the pistons. If you go lightweight it will affect the drivability no end, for the power you want it would be a waste of time. For example, i have pistons half the weight of the originals and a lightened crank/flywheel, yeah it is noticeably faster at responding, but if you load the alternator up too much you risk stalling the car. Especially the drain put on by the fan! Don't worry on the crank seals, if there not leaking then don't change them, they need a silly special tool to form. Cranks been out of mine 3 times and still no oil leaks. The walls between bores are fairly large, about 8-10mm iirc, which is a lot more than most french counterparts. You could overbore easily, and there are overbore pistons available off the shelf from VW up to +1.5mm, at something stupid like £400 plus vat. They won't be readily available from anywhere else id imagine, the GTi piston is odd with its small wrist pin and piston guided rod set up. Don't raise the compression to much with a higher lift cam, you will hit a piston! If you want to, id keep a good eye on EGT's especially with standard valves. iirc, bottom end bearing shells were something like £26 a pair. Bottom end bolts are normal machine bolts and are about £8 a set. I think the con rod bearings weren't too expensive. Id guess you won't see any change from £700 if you supply just an engine to them to rebuild. John John