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BioTriffid

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BioTriffid last won the day on February 12 2016

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About BioTriffid

  • Birthday 11/05/1991

Previous Fields

  • My Car Diary
    clio 1.4 16v remap
  • Currently Driving
    Lupo 1.416v s

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Forfar Scotland
  • Interests
    Cars
    Tv
    Trucks

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  1. @mk2well since the old subframe was completely bent from the years of abuse it appears the tracking was out by miles so I had to drive it ten miles with both front wheels scrubbing and squealing along luckily I had 4 new ones going on the next day, turns out the tracking was out by 5 on both sides so i guess that's not a thing to be proud about lol. But I can only recommend that you fit new everything apart from suspension (unless you are) I am running camber bolts but I sense I may no longer need them 🤔. Get a full subframe alignment if you can find a garage that has that. But my next date with the lupo is to get the bonnet fixed and I need to pull the passenger side rear sill out since it was bashed in years ago in a kfc car park.
  2. So I've been putting it off but after much gathering of parts I managed to change out my old subframe for a nice new one. Through the rain me and my partner got the old one out in no time at all. Everything was going well until i went to drive the car the alignment was out by miles and couldn't drive the car at all. I've got more to tell but it's a long story.
  3. Hello guys I've found a problem with my coil pack. I've got a melted ground on the pin and on the plug has anyone else had this issue and found the cause let me know. Thanks Kieran
  4. Does anyone know what kind of bolts these are? Just the 4 for the cover. Thanks Kieran
  5. Here are the original factory bushes if someone can explain how the metal piece got them dents.
  6. @tigcraft yeah I was using all kinds of wire bits on drills and grinders even flap disc sanders Dremel tools for tight spaces most of the original factory paint would not move dunno what they use but it sure is tough hopefully the rust treatment and however many coats of paint I did will hold up for a while. I was thinking about a VW up axle if they fit or a fix maybe? My bushes are now powerflex the old ones were completely egg shaped the metal was bushing part in the rubber had some strange markings on it. I'll find some pictures of the old standard bushes.
  7. Pictures are not showing for some reason
  8. Afternoon all here is a few cross cut photos of the rear axle that I've just scraped now just an inside what to expect if you are doing the axle change or repair. Hopefully this guys you an idea what to expect. Kieran
  9. That's a good call just to see what's going on in the area you can't see if only there was a spray straw type contraption to get the insides of parts.
  10. I've seen it split from the bushes before the entire loop ripps out! Not sure what the inside could be coated with maybe a wax or grease can be used but it's a matter of applying it I did shoot a can of spray in the openings.
  11. I've managed to obtain a fog valance I've been trying so long to get one and now I can't wait to fit it on
  12. Here is more on the rear axle and the products used Kurust is applied after you have spent days using wire wheels, it basically turns rust into something more sturdy I'd say dunno how but it works make sure you remove as much rust as possible before using it, that small pot with a small brush will cover the entire axle or whatever you are using it on plus up can go over it as many times as you need but please do use old clothes as it stains anything it touches even the ground so use cardboard or some kind of protection. Rust primer is then applied to the piece nice thick coat it gets into all the areas again with a small brush taking time to apply it get every area, can reapply as needed. Give it a light sand and you can get a gray primer on top of that then your set for whatever color (colour?) You want. I did 2 clear coats on top of all of that locking it all in. Hopefully this helps someone else i know it's probably not the right way about doing it but I thought it turned out well and I didn't have much time to get it finished.
  13. @mk2 I have a similar situation where the captive nuts are broken off inside so from a previous repair I've just welded extra length to the nut and covered the hole again but I have a full subframe replacement and lower arms and track rod ends to fit. The old subframe is not repairable as it's had a hard life after 20+ years on the road but I'll keep you posted on this feed still have to find torque specs for everything on the front subframe. But I do have some rear axle pictures to share with you all just so you know what to expect. With the rear axle I didn't take it to a sandblaster like the last time as I think it cause more damage to the steel and top tip never use hammerite paint it's not long lasting or provide any protection from the elements. I can provide paints and advice if needed from my process I used to achieve better results. Alot of wire wheels on drills and grinders is good takes a lot of time but worth the results in the end. Also thanks for the help guys I got two bolts brand new from VW only cost 11.90 not bad to keep original and safety is keep after all.
  14. Hello everyone just needing to know what size this bolt is so I can get a replacement as I'm updating the front subframe soon as I've redone the rear axle after it split! I'm using @littlekev photo here just to show you what one I mean. Any help as always will be much appreciated Thank you Kieran
  15. Hi all just a little confused as to what these are called they fit onto plugs and the black conduit on the wiring any help please Thanks
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