mk2

Not usually plugs. They last almost forever. More likely coil pack or an HT lead (if your model has them?). Try swapping around and see if the misfire moves. Not injectors either. Could be a manifold leak. Pic of plugs?

That's soooo true! (And sdi/tdi parts)

Noooooo! @Rich?

R U sure it's defective? MOT time, the rears don't lock up (not meant to).

I'm trying to picture the position... If it's a vertical tube, it might be the sunroof drain if you have a sunroof? But not in the right place.

When you have done it, tell us how with lots of pics! Those sunroofs are rare in the U.K. 👍🏻

Read: https://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/50231-crank-sensor/#comment-624651 And https://forums.clublupo.co.uk/index.php?/topic/107066-10l-crank-sensor-location/#comment-1198956

If you're not seeing ignition sparks (with the plugs out), then yep, most likely the crank sensor. Assuming ignition system is ok. It's possible that it's another electrical gremlin, but by the description, sounds like crank sensor. Some jobs are a pain... My SDI Lupos, it's the alternator. Easier to pull the whole engine out!

I wouldn't put any force on the drive shaft "cup" when trying to push out the threaded part of the ball joint. You can damage the wheel bearings. My method is to tap the side of the hub with a hammer, then pull the track control arm down, by tapping the body of the ball joint with a pin chisel and hammer. The ball joints can take about 2000kg of reverse force without damage. If you don't mind replacing the seal, you can also use a slotted ball joint wedge removing tool (when really stuck).

That's a marker bung in the gearbox bell housing so you can line up crank TDC. There's usually a line on the flywheel with a little "0" next to it.

My guess also would be crank sensor because of the way it cuts out. Could be ignition switch or main power control relay as well? I've never seen a TDI pump fail.

Need a lot more info. Car? Engine? Conditions during failure? Etc etc... Lupos don't have a limp mode. They just degrade (with warning lights) then eventually stop working.

Not sure if it's the crank sensor. The symptoms sounds very much like the coolant temp sensor, which is really common on our Lupos (and so many other Vdubs of that era). @Rich what do you think? Can you use your diagnostics to see live sensor data? Worth checking if the temp readings look correct... And welcome to club Lupo Pic of car?

The mk3/4 golf auto box (096 or 01M) were French design things. Worst thing ever for Vdub. I don't know one that ever lasted beyond 130k miles. Even with lots of love. How do I know...? Lupo was different (real vdub), but they all need fluids and filters changing every 40k I'd say.

Yeah. What @Rich said. Full car =400kg loading. And while you're at it, may as well do both fluids, magnets and filter inside the gearbox...

It's great seeing a club lupo member on the Nurburgring again! Thanks for updating us on the latest. Excellent. 👍🏻 I wonder how often you see any Lupo or Arosa doing laps these days.

Have you had a chance to read the pedal box thread? they are weldable- if they know what they're doing. The gearbox will need it's fluid flushing too now, most likely.

@Rich does the 1.4 16v have a cam sensor? Not worked on that specific engine. I know that the mini secondary cam belt needs to be correctly tensioned or you get slop between cams. Later ones do have a sensor. Or is it possible that this is a complete red-herring and it's more likely to do with the crank sensor? The throttle valve is DBW, so if it shuts off killing the engine, that will have been called for by the ECU. And the reason the ECU usually shuts off is because it's not seeing the right timing signals. The crank signal runs the entire show. Ignition always works, so the fuel circuit is controlled. Analogue sensors would cause other effects, so most likely not temp/flow/pressure stuff.

What model? Engine?

Is possible the coolant temperature sensor is not working? Blocked fuel filter? But it is also possible you have a lot of carbon build-up in the inlet EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve. Welcome to club lupo

Awesome pic! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Hey, we're all learning from your experiments here. So thank you! Yeah @cj1 also had so many problems with the left side drive shaft and CV joints. I think the solution was to machine a different groove (for the spring clip) on the splines. Then grind off some of the end off the shaft. That moved the inner CV joint away from the gearbox flange a bit- it was the inner one that knocked.

That is gorgeous! 👍🏻

Everyone's back again!

Hey hey @Pete!