mk2

That's handy. How does it work? Is there a voltage 'injector' probe in the coolant system? As in, where does the voltage reading come from? Is it like a sacrificial anode setup, where a voltage is generated between the anode and the block, and the meter probe picks up the voltage difference between them, but only if the coolant "still works" as a corrosion suppressant? Lots of questions!

Just was wondering if there's a life limit to new coolant? Used to need changing every two years on G11. Or is it sealed for the life of the system- as in until you change the pump, thermostat or temp sensor?

I've already forked out a fair bit on London ULEZ. Waiting for this month's bill (autopay). Not happy. CO2 is no longer considered a pollutant. So all the low car tax stuff (based on CO2 emissions) from a few years ago is now being clawed back. Lovely.

That has got to be one of the BEST put-downs ever. Love ya Ray! LOL! Respect.

Ooh er. Too posh for this forum. Like @danno and @mscherryviolet... Everyone is leaving us. Sad times.

Good write up! It is scary that vdub haven't got any plans for a new small replacement car. Even the polo is bigger than the old Golf. The ID series is getting a fair amount of bad press, so I really have no idea what's going to happen next. Maybe people will just stop buying vdubs?

To be replaced by £57k SUV EV model... Got no concrete confirmation of this story, but apparently this is it for the end of small vdub cars. Anyone have any info? Personally, I don't really like the style of the up. The seat and skoda versions look better IMO. They expect sales to run out by next Autumn.

Lights on reminder buzzer also not working i'd guess? Tricky, if it's not the door lock. Does the other door make the interior light come on? Thinking aloud... I wonder if the positive feed to the light circuit is working, you know the little wire that gently lights up the light switch when the door has been opened. The wire people use to run trackers and dash cams etc... oh, and is the radio retaining memory settings ok, as it might be the same wire? Can't remember.

LOL. Yeah. I do need an edumacation. If sludge is an issue, check the thermostat. Once the engine is hot, the oil usually becomes runny enough to flush any crud away. Especially if you're running synthetic 5w30. And more pics of the rest it. Looks great by the way!

Depends what you need, but on here's a good start welcome to CL 👍🏻

The GTi hub carrier is different to regular Lupos. @Rich might have one? The vdub breakers in Thame/Biscester area has a few. There's also a specialist vdub breakers in Southampton. Can't remember the names of either but you'll find them online...

Uh oh... looks like a new Lupo addict... Sharp looking Lupo. Nice 👍🏻 Yeah, quick way to tell if it's the pedal box, by seeing if the rest position of the clutch pedal is below the brake pedal. If all at the same height, chances are that the pedal mounting box is ok, and it might just need an adjustment. @Rich is usually on the money.

Pics?

EGR valve regulator thing... But was the car running ok before?

I'm not sure, but pretty good guess that all vdubs/audis/seats of that era are the same part. It's a basic pickup coil.

I like the analysis. Hmm. Yeah, I think the same, that it's (was) just electrical gremlins. Hasn't happened since. A least I hope that's what it was. The oil pressure relief valve on all engines opens as soon as running oil pressure is reached, and stays in a state of partially open depending on temp and RPM.

All obvious once gearbox is off. The lever slides in through the side. And there are splines on the fork that the lever axle goes into, so make sure yiu get the right position (which I didn't, the first time I did it...). Yeah you can buy a replacement, but any 085 gearbox lever should work (cable actuated type). But the gearbox needs to be out to remove it... Unless it has snapped or has cracks in, it's pretty straight forward to bend it back into shape. But it might be the releaser fork that is bent/broken, in which case you will need a new one. Just plan for being without a car for a week! 🙃

Well known problem... Either of two things or both: The release bearing guide tube has become all gunged (oil weep from front gearbox seal plus lots of clutch dust over the years). Which leads to the release bearing sticking, meaning you have to press bloody hard to disengage. Which also means that release lever (circled) could bend- easy enough to straighten out with a hammer). Gearbox has to come out to sort lever and gunged guide tube. May as well replace front seal (£4) while gearbox is off. And clutch plate and release bearing if you're thinking of keeping the car a few years. Otherwise it's just a case of pull box, clean everything, lightly lube contact surfaces and reassemble. The other problem is if the clutch was very stiff, the pedal box assembly- that the clutch cable plugs into- is also known to snap. There's a thread on that subject- easy to tell because you get the symptoms you describe, plus the pedal at rest sits a bit lower than the brake pedal. To sort that, the pedal box needs to come out and swap for a new one, or if someone is handy with a welder, it needs tacking back together (2 min weld job). Either way, not expensive, but a couple of hours work. You'll also want to flush the gearbox oil and bung in some nice fresh stuff.

Correct. There is someone on the German Lupo Club .DE who knows a company that can remap a 3L into full manual mode- so there is a solution already. We don't have 3Ls in the UK, so not much use to us...

Make holes. Way way easier... Any pics? We all like Lupo pics

Before starting anything, make sure you can find someone to change the ECU... If you run a 3L as a manual without changing the ECU software, many people simply leave the gear select connection in N. The car will function, but use lots of fuel and have low power. Software first. The rest is easy... 👍🏻

When I did two of my SDIs I used clutch plates from a Derby and a Vento. Same reason. Not paying silly money. On one of the clutch plates, I had to remove about 4mm off the central splined shaft arbor with my angle grinder, so it didn't hit the flywheel. Still good 50k later. I can't remember the details, but count the number of splined teeth and measure the overall diameter. You'll be good to go. There are loads and loads of cross references if you take the time to research. The exact same clutch is/was used in loads of vw/audi/seat/skoda models over the years. The pressure plate is probably fine- The max allowable wear on the spring tips is around 1mm to be able to get one more clutch life out of it. Just get a nice new release bearing- decent branded part. Smear a thin layer of CV grease on the surface of the release bearing where it makes contact. Oh, and make sure that the guide tube that the releaser slides up and down on is spotless and dry. Worth changing the inlet shaft seal. When they leak, the tube gets covered in sticky gloopy gunge that binds on the releaser making pressing the clutch pedal really stiff- breaking the pedal box again...

There's a how-to with pics on here

Got a pic? Might be fixable. I'm going to mig weld some stuff this week, so could spend 5 minutes on it... (Reading area). Although for a couple of beers, any local place could probably have a go.

Go for full manual 👍🏻