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mk2

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Posts posted by mk2

  1. 6 hours ago, mscherryviolet said:

    Frank I kid you not, if you saw the inside of the fresco you’d be mortified. It’s full of crisp packets and bits of kinder egg. 

    My guess is that is due to kids... kids and cars don't mix. In fact from what i've been told, kids and nothing mixes well. Everyone i know with young 'uns have the backs of  their seats kicked in, chocolate and various susbstances mashed into the headliner, carpet, seatbelts, cloth and door handles covered in icky goo... bring back vinyl for families!

  2. 1 hour ago, Tripod said:

    I've had similar symptoms to this on a Honda before. Would cut out occasionally on turning left. It turned out to be a loose wire shorting out as it touched the engine bay. Can't remember which wire though, probably something attached to the battery.

    That's another good one! Bet there was a lot of head scratching at first.... i wonder if @Rich is reading this? He's got some good stories i bet???

  3. Oh, great problem! I love these sorts.... :) clutch and revs... cutting out... completley unrelated. Got me thinking.... Mmmmm.

    It could be volts, but once warmed up the battery pretty much sits at 14.4v. Try and reproduce it with all the electrics on. Fan, lights, demister etc.

    ok, this might be a stab in the dark. Clutch switch has wiring that is on the same loom that the ignition relay is on a few cm away. When you declutch, switch mounting moves, tugging slightly on the harness that goes into the back of the relay. The added tension caused by the pedal being pressed causes the wire to act like a guitar string that vibrates perfectly when you rev the engine. The added vibration causes a harmonic ringing of the contact inside the relay which then disconnects the power. Engine cuts out. Mad idea?

    Or coukd be crank sensor, but i can't think of a link to the crank sensor and the clutch action...

  4. 20 minutes ago, Rich said:

    I'd say engine speed sensor.

    The crank sensor then...? Depending on what software's in your ecu, try getting it running then disconnect the crank sensor. Engine should die. Then try starting it with it disconnected. If it runs, roughly, then everything else is probably fine. If nothing, either you have a duff cam sensor or the 'other' version of software. But when u plug it back in again, shoukd be working as before. Crank sensors can be temperamental.

    if you look at trace of the O2 sensor on the diagnostics, it should be steady. For a misfire, going low means no spark, going high means no injection.

    But @Rich is right. If crank, could be multiple cylinders all missing for a split second.

  5. If the level is going down, there's probably a small leak. Usually its a classic Vdub seal failure between the alloy cylinder head and a plastic hose flange. They fitted little rubber rings that go inside the plastic hose mounts that go brittle, shrink a bit then allow a very slow drip drip drip of coolant. You don't ever get a puddle under the car, just a very fine misting or damp area around the leak. For the time being just top up with water or pink coolant.

  6. Welcome to club lupo :)

    sounds like everything is ok. Just top up the coolant with a bit of water and it'll be fine.

    but engines don't like being started from cold and run every now and then (just idling without being driven). The trick is to take the car for a good half hour drive till it gets properly warmed up, then park it with a hot engine and leave it for up to six months. Ideally with the battery disconnected. The condensation (combustion products) in the exhaust affects all the internal components.

     

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  7. Sell this car and get a wrecker.... your project is one of those tricky ones that'll probably be abandoned eventually, unfinished with too many difficult things to sort out for the average car enthusiast. Half shafts, for example need special heat treatment once cut and joined, and balancing if uneven.

    lots of welding

    lots of wiring

    lots of custom gear shift stuff

    custom exhaust

    the list goes on and on...

    it's a good looking motor... oh and welcome to club lupo! :)

     

  8. The corners, just behind the wheels have no strength and are just bendy plastic. That bit could be easily removed, but you'd get a lot of rear spray. The bit inbetween could be modded. You need to see what the structure is like on the car, the bit that is covered up by the bumper. I'd say that the bumper isn't that strong. It's held on by two screws at the top, 3 in the wheel arch and two underneath. Takes five minutes to remove it.

    the big question is what would you replace it with? You need some kind of non sharp surface to hide everything and to keep it looking sweet.

  9. Not sure what i'll be doing, but the drivers door moves up and down by about 10mm at the lock! Pin completely worn i reckon. So i'll try just swapping the lower one and see how it goes. The top one is known to be a tricky one to swap.

    Ideally brand new hinge. Just looking for cheap & new, as i could get a whole used steel door for £35.... Either way I'll need to do some painting.

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