James_VW

So limped it back home after snapping at work... Thankfully 10 miles or so later got home... This morning jacked drivers side up Removed wheel Release engine mount bolts some to drop engine down a bit to aid twisting tensioner (clockwise) Wrap belt round leaving alternator till last then twist tensioner from underneath then wrap around alternator. Job done £10 and around 20 mins job.. took longer getting my tools from shed...

My gearbox also seems rattly when setting off... When cruising its fine.. not sure why tho ??

Whilst driving alternator belt has snapped causing no power steering. Can it be swapped easy enough? Just pull down on tensioner and pop new belt on?

What a ballache it is getting the box back in... Deffo a lot easier with 2 people to lift box back in. First time I've done a clutch, good learning experience and will defiantly find it easier to do next time... Here's a pic of the clutch I removed... Best of all it didn't cost me anything ?

Oh, I don't have clutch alignment tool... What can I use? Think I read somewhere a socket?

Cheers for the reply, Will have a good comparison when I get the old clutch of tomorrow. Let's hope for good weather.... ?

Clutch keeps slipping on lupo sport. I've dropped the box and ready to install a used clutch. (Used because car won't be on road for awhile after a few months) How do you check the condition of a used friction plate and pressure plate? Release bearing seems good, would a little grease be ok on shaft? Cheers James

where did you get the arb droplinks from? James

Was the anti roll bar from a lupo GTI? Im struggling to find stabilisers/droplinks for it (other than vw) Were did you get your droplinks from? great thread btw Some real effort gone into it

I think I've seen people put the indicator lights inside the headlights and lower fog lights... To then remove the hole left your probably have to plastic weld and fill etc

Cheers for the reply. I know it's a bit early to tell if the bearing you've put in are any good, but how are they holding up? There's quite a few different bearings about with people saying to go with known brands such as orbis and skf.... Will be getting local garage to knock bearings out and in for free, not worth it for me buying tools for a one off job.

Sport/gti/polo gti hubs all the same. Straight swap over. This allows 14" wheels, you could also upgrade further by doing g60 conversion which allows bigger discs. G60 only allows 15" wheels Rear beam conversion is fairly simple as well. Straight swap, need to swap brakes lines and handbrake cables. Could also add braided lines I guess. Hope that helps

Needed for lupo gti... Are all bearings and hubs the same? has anyone had to change these and got a review? Which to avoid etc? found orbis, topran and (undeclaired ebay) hubs at good prices. bearings - orbis, any others? Basically just asking if anyone has changed these and got anything to input/review

Almost a full year since an update! hmm where to start... Seat Arosa has gone... Still driving around in the Lupo Sport which hasn't had a lot of attention but has been maintained. Its had a few odd jobs done, breaks all round, gti black roof lining, Abs sensors replacing, oil (lots of it) mainly just maintenance stuff... I've finally got into gear starting on the GTI... I wasn't quite sure on how to approach the build, do I do it properly and keep it or fix and sell... Took a while to think about but decide to keep it as you know there only going up in value, very fun to drive, cheaper insurance and I like that you don't see many about on the roads... So I decided to start on the front end - inspected to see what I needed and would replace anyway after 16ish years... Passanger inner and outer cv boot drivers outer cv boot passanger steering rack boot both track rod ends both wishbones both anti roll bar stabilisers Abs light present so may as well replace both sensors both wheel bearings Getting new zinc nuts and bolts aswell hubs getting shot blasted and painted may renew caliper seals inner track rods are good so just thread chasing them to clean the threads up so alignment is easier to do new brake shields Also managed to get the front headlight washer system working. New bulbs in spotlights. rip in seat so getting that repaired. Rear of car planning on... dropping rear beam... shot blasting and painting new bushes replacing discs, pads, calipers HEL braided lines (mk2 to mk4) New nuts and bolts Look at the condition of the stub axles, bearing etc Painting will be the last on the list of to do as would prefer to get mechanically sound then worry about the cosmetics later as that will hurt the wallet aswell Still on the lookout for... Drivers Headlight Rear door cards (Black rears or full red set) need some new front hubs Sorry for the long message will try and remember pics next time...

Thanks very much for the reply! Lots of good information there, will have a look at some of the products, seems as though there exactly what I need!

facebook group - 'vw lupo/seat arosa parts' ^ lots more members there than here (pretty dead on here...) regulary Gtis are being broken so keep your eye out for them... just be smart when paying... collection is best but if you do go for shipping ensure you pay for 'goods and services' and not 'friends and family' on paypal... better to pay the extra than be scammed. TPS (trade part specialists) basically vw's supplier of parts... you do have to be a 'trade member' but my locally one aint fussed... (there taking money why should they be)

Got hold of a few new parts wishbones, droplinks, tie rods, ball joints whats the best way to protect these from future rust? been looking at waxoyl and 3m rubberised spray. Anybody got suggestions? (going for longevity) also need to remove driveshafts to replace boots so may as well clean these up, best method? (wirebrush, kurust?, zinc primer? top coat? waxoyl?) any help?

seen a few for sale on facebook groups. I've been to TPS today and got quoted for a new rear bumper at £133+VAT....

Bump, anyone?

Are there any differences between standard lupo/arosa parts and GTi? Lower ball joints - extended on GTi... last known can only get from VW... are there any alternatives yet? wishbones Tie rod ends droplinks - what size are GTI ones? 20mm?

As per title, Anybody got a driver's side GTI headlight?

I'd say all are easy bar 3... 2 at the very bottom next to sill (I found best way was to use penetrating oil and impact screw driver) and the one inside the door. Other than that fairly straight forward.

Had a crack at the car today... Been informed Lupo sports don't have compensation valves due to it having ABS. The passenger brake pads was very close to the end where as the drivers was fairly reasonable, but still fading quicker than it should. Passenger calliper was knackered, the boot dusk gave way in which seized the piston solid The drivers side pad wore faster due to the handbrake cable sticking, it wouldn't retract back when the handbrake released... So new passenger side calliper and both cables greased and working as they should (I will replace the handbrake cables soon) Just need to bleed the brakes and all should be goof for brakes

I used VW discs and pagid brake pads. The second hand callipers I cleaned them up and they seemed fine. Handbrake can't be stuck on as I can roll the car easily without the handbrake on. The passenger rear side is more worn than the drivers side. Is this the compensation valve your talking about?

Roughly 5K miles ago... The rear brakes and discs was needed for replacement. So I had got the new pads and discs, but noticed the passenger side calliper was knackered (Dust cover came off and piston rusted) Replaced both callipers (Second hand) and replaced passenger brake line as it had snapped, then bled the brakes. Had a look today and the pads are almost ready for replacing again! What can cause the rear pads to wear a lot faster than the front? Is there a brake bias somewhere? (I also need to adjust my handbrake as it is needed to be raised to the sky to stop the car rolling , but cant see this wearing the pads out as some people ask to see if the handbrake is on slightly causing it to drag the rear pads, wearing them out faster?) Cheers James