Luppy Jack

I recently bought a 1.7sdi about a month ago, and had no problems during a 200 mile trip last week. However, I went out in the car last night, at which point the red engine coolant light came on the dash. I've read this is overheating, however the temp gauge was sat low when it came on (roughly 80's), and there is enough coolant in the tank. Unfortunately I haven't got access to a vagcom where I am and am pretty scared to drive it! Any suggestions are much appreciated! Thanks Jack.

Cheers for the suggestion koop! I did think of this, but I can't find anything online about part numbers since elsaweb was taking down. Tried giving TPS a ring to get them to check but they need chassis numbers

hello there, I'm in the process of repair my lupo which was written off (Cat C) last wednesday. The damage to the car isn't as bad as initially thought, hopefully only need to replace track rod+end, and the part which the coilover and tie rod end both bolt onto, I believe to be called the steering knuckle. My question is, is the steering knuckle exactly the same from the 1.4(2001) to my 1.0(2002)? (both are non-ABS) Here is a picture of the part: It's only the cast metal part I am interested in as I will probably change the calipers etc.. from mine should I find a cheap full hub from a breakers. Many thanks in advance! Jack

Today I replace the plugs, cleaned the throttle body and inspected the MAP sensor(no obvious visible damage) The engine management light has now disappeared However, the EPC light is still on, this leads me to believe the MAP sensor and/or brake light switch need replacing. My rear lights work when the brake is pushed, could the brake switch still be showing as faulty even though it appears to be working ? Thanks again!

Shouldn't need to register buddy just go along to your local tps and have a chat with them. Not quite sure I undersstand what you mean about MAP/MAF? is there a difference? I thought the only MAP sensor was located to the rear left under the rocker cover? Cheers for confirming this for me mate

Saw a guide on how to do this recently and forgot about it- cheers buddy! Yeah I saw that although the experienced VW mechanic that diagnosed it said he'd only ever changed one MAP sensor in his career, and said its more probable the sensor is receiving the wrong information caused by another issue (such as a misfire or throttle body) causing it to show up, if that makes any sense! I'll remove the MAP sensor and clean it got quoted £40 for a new one from tps

Hi guys, My loop has been surging on idle, (ie revving up and down slightly) and randomly losing power whilst driving. Went to pick up my car today from my mechanic only to find it's too low to get in his garage Anyway I got the diagnostic sheet and figured i'd have a go myself- the code is: 16492- manifold/barometric pressure sensor (G71)/(F96) P0108 - 35-00 - signal too high readiness:1000 0101 Searching the code returns: Possible CausesWiring and/or connections faulty (Short to Plus)Leak in intake and/or exhaustG71 and/or F96 faultyControl Module faultyMy plan of action is too- Clean throttle body replace plugs (haven't been done yet and at 52k) Check all pipes not losing air If this doesn't solve the issue: Replace coilpack+ht leads Replace manifold sensor Does this plan sound sensible?anything missed? Many many thanks, Jack!

Lupo's are quite notorious for having failing coilpacks so could be worth a check, however i'd have thought it would have given a fault code.

Massive thanks for the replies gents- I have been reading alot about throttle body issues, definitely looks like it's the next step to take when I find a guide on how to do it. I did read the EPC common fault was the brake switch- but got a friend to check and the brake lights are working perfectly I will be replacing the coilpack and leads just for peace of mind - thanks for the tip looks like genuine is the way to go I did see the rosstech link- not very specific on the problem but it seems to suggest an issue with the intake runner motor 2- of which I know nothing I'll try the battery tonight although it is the running issues i'm more worried about!

Hello there A few months back (when I had a timing belt changed) the mechanic said the diagnostic was showing dodgy coilpack which I planned on replacing but never got round too. It's been running fine on this coilpack with no lights coming on, however during the lastweek I have started to lose power, and both the EPC and the Engine check lights have come on and stayed on. I had it diagnosed again today- this coilpack raised no errors so that seems intermitant, however there was one fault code (P1018) which im told is a problem with the inlet manifold. I've search the internet but everything i've founded is pretty ambiguous, I wondered if anybody has previously had this problem/fault code or has any information on the inlet manifold. Any help would be greatly appretiated! Jack

Sorry to see it like that! Looking forward to see its recovery !

Looking foward to seeing how this progresses

White steels on jazz blue look sweet

Welcome Looks like a smart example, good luck with your test!

Weight saving seconded- eg rear seats, spare wheel, clueless boyfriend, door cards..

Why on earth would you want to do that?

Blown away seeing this for the first time Sunday, Loved the VW mat such a quality touch

Great vid mate, looking forward to the future videos Looking at getting a waffle weave any brands you recommend? Cheers

I'd suggest browsing through the member's cars section, as asking for the best brand of wheels is like asking how long is a piece of string? (The wheels you have pictured will look shite imo ) As for what coilovers thats also difficult to answer without knowing what your budget is... Jack

Just cleaned the lupo to find quite a surprise, I recently rolled my archs using a proper roller and plently of heat, and thought I made a decent job of it.. although after seeing this i'm not convinced! Need advice on best way to proceed to prevent it cracking/rusting/bubbling, was always going to flat and hammerite the hidden lips, but unsure what to do with the cracks in the picture as they're very close to the arch face Thanks! Jack

yeah you have to pay for the privelege of the retest, good job mine only had about 3 months until it expired Totally agree, but I can honestly say I do drive pretty sensibly my license is too valuable to me to drive like a dick My car is very oem, apart from the banded steels, aswell as maintained so not really any issues on that front. All my mods are declared, hence paying silly money to insurance a 1litre. I also get this feeling aswell bud! I've kept the pink ticket in my car so if I get stopped again after i've sorted the issue I shouldn't have any problems. who'd recommend flaring as opposed to camber or both? How much tyre wear should I expect with very small negative camber? (like I said driven sensibly so not much heavy cornering etc..) A little worried about losing the profile of the arch one the flaring starts

Must be a killer going to college at night haha? yeah I was with nathan I'd had thought you'd have easily got 2600 for it no doubt it would go for 2500 in classifieds Yeah man definitely, im sure ill see the progress of it on here but let me or nay know when you're ready to show it off

I was on my way back from the station after beig told I can drive again haha, you were coming round the McDonalds/morrisons roundabout about 6ish with the mrs I assume Haha I can imagine it too be annoying looking forward to seeing the progress on the golf! hopefully it'll go this time then bud, I assume they don't know it just won best gti 2012 get that ebay listing edited!

Sounds like I caught him on a bad day then, ill put that one down to experience and hopefully have no more trouble once I flare the arches! Also considering a smal amount of camber if I can't get the clearance from flaring, but trying to avoid this as much as possible Thought you might haha, I'm the guy who came to pick them up with him, saw you in the loop down derby last night, still had no luck with the sale?