Teflon

?

oh my! i can see a huge can of worms opening up here!!! torque is the amount of twisting force/or leverage that can be apllied to something, for example if you have a spanner trying to tighten a nut, if the spanner was 1 metre long, and you put 100 newtons of force on it, the amount of torque at the nut would be 100nm, now if you doubled the length of the spanner to 2 meters, you would only need 50 newtons of force to make the same amount of torque at the nut. horsepower is just a product of torque and revs.... generally speaking, the more torque you have, the faster you can go, but that assumes that you can rev as well... the average adult male can produce about 600nm or torque from the legs, but they cant run at 100mph becuase the legs can't move(rev?) fast enough, but an engine might produce say, 150nm, but becuase it can rev faster it can drive faster.... that's as clear as mud isn't it??? there's allways a diesel vs petrol arguament big torque + low revs - vs - low torque + fast revs

pmsl!

surely you would set the camber angles the same both sides??

i've just re-read the original post and for some reason i thought it said ht leads......... yeah you can get the sparkers from halfrauds, they are ngk bkur6et-10 i think??

i dont think halfrauds do them for that engine iirc..... the genuine vw ones are about £15 each.

funnily enough the ecu used is the same in both variants of the pd engine, the differences lie in the engine internals(conrods & pistons) which gives a 19:1 compression ratio as opposed to the 19.5:1 in the pd115 engine..... also the pd150 has a bigger turbo and injectors with a higher flow rate, and obviously they have a different program stored in the ecu.... however it is possible to swap these bits over, but i aint easy

Who wants a copy of ETOS pm me?

i would be more inclined to go for a lupo sport box, the have a lower final drive ratio than a lupo s box so it will pull through the gears better than the original one, and you'd be able to retain the original clutch too

me too! i've been racing mk4 polo's since i was 12 years old! i more recent years i've used a lupo for hillclimbs where i would set the front camber to 8 degrees negative for increased cornering stability, also i would normally adjust the rears to about 2 degrees as well seriously though for a stock lupo the specfied setting is .50 to 1.50 negative, and also that's what autodata says too!

the o2k box on the sdi would need the bellhousing changed to fit the 1.4 engine, and also it's a wider box so may require some modifications to the chassis to make it fit. the 1.0 litre box will go in, and it does have shorter ratios, but the spline on the input shaft is a different size so ou would have to use the clutch from the 1.0 litre as well

yeah, i've got loads of genuine vw tools, and how would you counter hold the centre piston on the damper if you used a closed socket then???? or am i missing something?? maybe i've been doing it wrong all these years! in fact i've even got a vw jig for setting the suspension geometry up for a mk4 polo/lupo the camber setting should be between .50 and 1.50 negative on a lupo and the toe in is 0.10 n/p each side

slightly different turbos and different valve timing too

the camber setting should be 1 degree negative.... if in doubt the settings are the same as the 6n polo year 94-99 oh and you dont need a welded socket nut spanner bodge up job! you can do it with a normal 21mm offset ring spanner

you wont be able to torque up the nut on the top of the strut because you cant use a socket on it becuase you need to counterhold it. the torque setting for the lower pinch boltsis 60nm and you will need to use new nuts and boltsfor this. and it's also 60nm for the strut top as well. make sure you get the camber angles checked and adjusted afterwards too

the actuall boost varies and is adjustable too.... but 2.3bars sounds about right for a chipped one

it depends which air box is fitted. some of them have a different shape airbox

i expect the valve stem oil seals need replacing.... and the engine code it the first 3 letters of the engine number in your v5 log book document, or if you look in the engine, it is on a label on the upper timing belt cover

nah, that sounds like you've got moisture in the hall sender if it cuts out in the wet/moisture.... maybe the seal has perished

yeah i meant 'not hydraulic' i think there was a language understanding issue there somewhere.... it's been years since i've seen one of those early pre'83 heads.... they were quite good too, but not as good as the later overhead lifter type, also the other problem (well maybe not where you are) is that it is very difficult to get replacement parts for the old heads here now..

there are a lot of interchanges available in gearboxes, the 1.4 16v 75bhp boxes will fit no problems at all, but if you fit a 1.0 box you will have to use the smaller diameter 1.0 clutch as well becuase the spline on the first motion shaft is 2mm smaller on the 1.0litre boxes..... but they all have the same flywheel

i had that on one ages ago and it was caused by the rear crankshaft oil seal leaking oil onto the impulse rotor and making it give funny readings... if it is that, then it's a gearbox / clutch / flywheel out job, and the new rear crankshaft oil seal is about £50... the rear seal only comes as a complete unit with the impulse rotor

that's a real early polo engine tho isn't it?? the the finger rockers!! vintage

ok just for reference here's what the front ones look like Mintex MDB1868 border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> and the rears Mintex MDB1377 border="0" class="linked-image" /> border="0" alt="" /> does that help?? they are the pads for both the TDI and 1.4 16v sport. (256mm fronts) the ones with th 239mm front discs have different pads