Skezza

Interesting, so a GTi might pull a very light car. Maybe a G-wiz or something?

No, I don't have unlimited Spotify. I have unlimited 3G and In truth, I don't use Spotify. I use Google Play Music (currently a legally grey service, so I'm enjoying it's goodness while I can). It's Google's attempt at pushing everyone towards cloud, which for stuff like work and personal documents I won't touch but for music is absolutely fantastic. It allows you to upload 20,000 songs for free at high bitrate, and you then stream them using the Play Music app. I really didn't think it would work in practice (high bitrate + low 3G = buffering surely?), but honestly, I've not had it buffer once because they've got some quite clever caching going on, basically, it pre-buffers the first track in the album which takes roughly 10-15 seconds on good 3G (which I get quite regularly), then once a stable connection has been established and enough of the song has been download that there isn't likely to be a drop, it actually starts to pre-buffer the next track... and so on, so in reality, you are hammering your 3G, but if you have unlimited, it's fantastic! As I said, not a single drop and I've been using it for a few weeks. I am with Three mobile (no, they aren't as **** as they used to be), I am on a contract and then for a limited period (which I think is still going) they offered a £3 addon which gets truly unlimited Internet, with no fair use or throttling. I absolutely love it lol and I do take the piss with it! (I regularly download well over 10gb) To be honest, I think unlimited 3G should be a more common thing now. Years ago, 3G was actually unlimited, Three and O2 did packages with Unlimited 3G, then when people took advantage they introduced their fair use policies. They've basically done a full circle because now it's reappeared.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/vw-mk-2-golf-gti-/111017135824?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item19d9230ed0 Same reg year as this but in far far better condition. This one needs some TLC. If I had the time, money, knowledge, I'd buy that today, do it up, and keep it in the garage as my little summer car.

I thought most members on ClubLupo felt the Fox was a bit of a downgrade compared to the Lupo? Felt a bit cheap inside and didn't drive as nice. I'd be tempted to say another Lupo, perhaps a GTi or something. However if you are desperate for a new/different car, I don't think you can go far wrong with a MK2 Golf, as posted above. I absolutely love them. My old football coach used to drive a white one in mint condition, a beauty, and I was green with envy. I absolutely loved it, I desperately wanted to buy it off him however he listed it in the paper and within hours it sold and I never even got a chance to buy it. :'( Gutted!

Ahh, so the reassembly instructions for the lock are similar to the golf reassembly ones? Just removing it is different. OK, well I'm probably going to leave it for a while anyway. Spent all weekend noodling with my car and actually achieved nothing I probably need to do a little more research plus, actually establish a day where I can spend 10-12 hours doing it lol!

Look at the mechanism for the handle, there's a hook that pulls like a cable. Is that cable attached? If not, attach it Simple If you have no cards, then I assume you might not have a handle either... just pull the cable lol!

I'm going to hook it up to a powerblock sometime when I get an opportunity. Like, I don't have any reason to believe that the box isn't working, but it's a case of, there is no way of actually knowing and without an LED, the task is 10x harder. So yeah, the plan is, I'll get a multimeter out and a powerblock with 12v on, then I'll look for a 12v signal on the door unlock and lock. That should be enough to tell me whether it's ****ed or whether I wired it up wrong to begin with. The only other thing is whether it's to do with the remotes not being paired. Apparently, the box has to learn remotes, but I have absolutely no idea how to set that off, so I've e-mailed the seller lol. Will let you know I may end up asking for a refund on this one if I decide it's ****-diddily-ed up and just going for the bog standard right click one everyone was looking at. Just didn't fancy the flip key lol!

OK, so if I lose those two large bolts on the door, will the lock just drop back? My mechanic warned me that if I remove them improperly that I can destroy the lock, is this true?

Hey Geoff, Thanks for the advice. Out of curiosity, how do you get it out of the door? I've not worked that out yet!

I've removed it from the car for the moment. The box and wires were obviously exposed and with it not working I felt it might be a really bad idea to leave it as it was, so I removed the box and tucked the wires back in. It's a job for an auto-electrician, but testing the box I need to do, and I will have to do it outside of the car. What kind of voltage or current, should I be looking for? Like when the Lock signal is triggered, is there a 12v trigger or something? I will meter it outside the car and I can't see why that wouldn't work... If I'd gone for the RightClick one everyone goes on about with the flip key, that has an LED on the main unit lol, would have certainly made diagnosing it a lot easier. I don't know if it's worth simply buying one of those as well haha.

Joe, could you PM me his details. It's a little further than I was going to travel, but if he's good it would probably be worth it. The problem is, at least from my perspective, I have no way of actually testing if the box is working. It doesn't have an LED on. Some of them do, but this one doesn't, so how am I supposed to know if it even works :'( I've opened it up, it's only 4 screws and it looks pretty simple inside, just a fairly bog standard PCB with a few connections and what looks to be the receiver, nothing too extreme. Can anyone think of a fairly foolproof way of testing if this box actually works, because like I said, no LED

Well that was a total ****ing disaster. Got the trim off, got down to the plug, scotchclipped the wires, was sure it would work. Nope. Nothing. Not even a click. Neither lock nor unlock worked so I've removed it and given up lol. I thought about bullet clipping but that requires me to start chopping wires in half and I wasn't sure if I'd make it worse. #pussy. Does anyone in the Stafford, Stoke, Cheshire area fancy doing it for me, I'll pay if you give me a quote? Otherwise, I can see me going some auto-electrician and them turning round saying "nah, we only fit our kit, £200 **** face"

I pay 3 pound a month

Just get unlimited 3G

Yeah I already have central locking. I am just fitting the remote part. I might just fit the main remote unit to begin with. I'm a bit you know, reluctant to start splicing wires in the column, but I didn't want to take the entire centre console out either. I haven't really got enough time today to do that now What a bugger, should have started earlier. erm, ok, will go and remove the bonnet release pull and the piece of trim below the dash so I can start placing it and what not. If I just get the remote part working that'd be really cool today, then I could always sort the indicators another day I guess.

Erm, well. I'm not sure as I haven't fitted it yet I just saw most people said the indicators flash when they get it to unlock, but obviously this is a feature you have to wire in. I read in another thread that it was necessary to connect those from the bottom of the steering column, not down by the bonnet release pull, I was just checking I didn't have to remove the entire steering column lol. Otherwise I'd just leave them not flashing because that sounds like an absolute nightmare. Although flashing headlights would be a good compromise, any really.

No rust on the sills on either the two Lupos I own. The green machine is a pov spec and had absolutely not a spot of rust. Which is a shame because obviously I bent it up and now my new S has a couple of bits of corrosion. Roof above the driver side has some bubbling. The black column on the door has some surface rust. The boot handle has this weird white corrosion which doesn't look brill. However, I will eventually get round to cleaning it up

I bought one of the remote central locking kits. Decided to go for the one with the small but quite fashionable remotes that aren't attached to the key, rather than the flip key one. Don't know why, but after reading peoples woes with the flip keys rattling and stuff, I figured I'd save myself the hassle. From reading various RClick + Central locking in general threads, I noticed people were not clear what to do with the boot release trigger. I too have this (didn't think about it when I bought it) so I just wondered what inventive things people had used them for? Flashing the headlights I saw but no-one put which wire to connect too for that. Is it actually possible to wire into the boot so it just unlocks the boot? Seems pointless because the boot opens on CL on mine, so kind of seems a redundant feature lol! Also, I spotted that to wire the indicators in required going under the steering column, can I do this when I attach the box to the side of the fuse box?

Yeah, I really don't mind soldering. I would have checked all the connections and soldered any that had broken, but it just worried me when I realized how tough it was going to be. I honestly thought getting the panel off would be really tough and the rest would be a breeze but it's the exact opposite lol!! I would be very interested in finding that thread, so I may have a dig through to try and find it. The plan was originally to use this: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1542461 and http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1015107 But I believe that is for a golf so might not be relevant Also, if I'd read the actual tutorial properly, I'd have realized I need to take more than just the insulation off to access the lock safely. I don't recognize the black panel though? The thing is, I'd buy a second hand mechanism from the internet, but that doesn't actually solve my problem of getting it off. I never even got that far lol!! Sounds like one ****er of a job. Tomorrow, Remote Central locking, as I said, fireworks expected Cars eh? What fun

Hi Geoff, Thanks for the response. I eventually found it after peeling back the top piece but ended up bottling it when I realized I'd obviously be without a lock temporarily, I thought they were separate til I looked and no, I don't know how to reassemble it properly, so I'm glad I didn't remove it. Is there a tutorial? I think I might just live with it. It's just a bit dicky lol, figured a clean of the micro switches would help but it sounds too much. The three fuses explains why I didn't kill it last night when I removed the fuses lol. I'm going to try fitting after market remote central locking tomorrow. Expect fireworks lol!

OK, I'm trying to remove the mechanism for the central locking so I can clean the microswitches. I've got the upper and lower door panel off but can't for the life of me work out where the mechanism is. I don't want to start ripping the grey protective material off to find nothing behind. I have a feeling its at the bottom left part I assume? Can someone confirm this, here's a picture:

Anyone? I can't believe nobody has removed the fuse to their central locking

I was told number 26 should kill the central locking + electric windows. It kills the electric windows, but it didn't kill the central locking for some reason. The thing still worked when I put my key in and turned. Is there another fuse for it :| Read down about mechanism...

Lol!! This.

It's a bugger to get rid of. I lost my trip-ometer lol grr, but I eventually switched it off after a bit of fiddling