Phatbwoy

Regarding the CD player I email the eBay seller and he also mentioned about the earth problem. He said they get a lot of these problems when retro fitting the CD player to Lupos and Polos where there is a lack of earth and the car wasn't originally set up to take a CD player? Anyway I am going to try and run a seperate earth to the back of the player (brown wire) and see if that does the trick. Cheers for the responses guys

Evening everyone, Appreciate some advice with these two issues I have: 1) I bought a single CD player from eBay to go with the Beta radio/cassette. I removed the Beta unit and connected the cable from the CD player to the back of this. Went to test and.... nothing. No power going to the CD unit unless the metal housing touches the metal housing of the Beta unit!? Have I just got a duff CD player or am I missing a trick here? 2) The heater blower in the Lupo has been very irratic lately, sometimes working, sometimes not and is very rattly and slow (no matter what speed is set). Today I removed the relay to check the fan and noticed that a gentle push of the blower got it going again after it previously gave up all together. I'm assuming I just need a new fan/heater unit? Is this a lovely person to change or fairly easy. Thanks guys.

Quick question for anyone in the know. I need a switched live from one of the wires that goes to the ignition barrel, just don't know which one is the ignition live? Just wondered if anyone here knows. Did my pedal box today and fitted some LED pedals that need a 12v feed....

Would just like to add to this, seeing as I have been faced with the broken pedal box issue lately. We have a 2000 SDI with 127000 miles and the pedal box went last week. I knew straight away what it was as my Mums Polo did the exact same thing a year ago. So, knowing the situation and that there was no point in chasing any dealerships, along with the costs of using a garage, I decided to tackle the job myself. After a long afternoon of swearing and agro, the pedal box is out. I am going to my mates tomorrow and we are going to weld it up around the entire bracket to strengthen it. The only thing I have bought is the plastic retainer that clips into the rear of the brake pedal (confirming what everyone else has stated about it being impossible to remove without breaking). I will also write up my method statement as it may be useful for anyone else facing this job. It's certainly helped me having all the info posted on this thread. - Disconnect battery negative terminal - 10mm nut - Remove driver seat (essential imo for work space) 2 x 13mm nuts at front center and remove 2 x plastic trim pieces that are fixed with 2 x phillips screws that are covered with blanking caps. Seat then slides back and out of the runners - Remove steering cowling and other bits of plastic interior trim to expose steering column and fuses - a hole host of torx bolts - Disconnect all electrics from steering column and tie to one side (so they dont drape in your face while you work). Pretty simple automotive connectors (one is covered in grey sponge!?) The black connector morphes into the plastic ring that surrounds the ignition barrel. I found this popped off with two small flat head screw drivers. - Ah, now the fun bit.... SHEER BOLTS!!! I never understood why car companies use these to fix steering columns. Security bull****! Anyuway, some people on here mentioned using a sharp chisel and hammer to get them off. Well, this didn't work for me. Firstly they aren't small bolts (there is a lot of metal to chisel), secondly to room you have to hammer a chisel up there is very restricted. Even if you were to chisel a flat head "slot" into the bolts, it's still a nightmare. So, I opted to drill them out. I used a corded drill and some high speed steel drill bits, building up from about 2mm up to 15mm. This was still a pain and took me a long time. You have to drill your first pilot hole exactly in the center of the bolts or the job becomes harder (trust me I know). I also trimmed a little of the plastic either side of the column (won't be seen when it's all back) so that I could get the drill up there. I found it long, hard work on my back getting metal swarf in my eyes (wear glasses) but after some persistance they fall out. To me this was the hardest bit of the removal. - Once that is done the steering column can be unbolted from the spline shaft in the footwell (covered by a piece of plastic trim with one small torx strew). Don't forget to maek with tippex the position for re-fitting, although mine actually came apart further up the joins???. The column then just pulls out. - Now it's on to the pedal box itself. I first un-bolted the clutch pedal (13mm nut) and popped it off along with the nipple adjuster on top of it. Naturally the broken piece of metal in question followed... I think there was a connector or two to remove from here also. - Now the brake pedal. If you remove to brake light switch (disconnect, twist and out) you can pull the pedal forward. Now the plastic clip that holds the pedal onto the servo rod. Yes you have to brake it, but I decided to weaken to retainers by drilling them on the left hand side using an angle/small drill. I then yanked the pedal forward and it popped off. - Finally, undo 7 x 13mm nuts to get the pedal box out (+ one or two more electrical connectors). I had to push the servo out a bit for clearance. So, thats where I'm up to. Took me ages really, though the sheer bolts really took up most of the time. Would love to know an easier way of removing them. Tomorrow Im getting it repaired and will put it all back... Hopefully in time for tea. Martin :thumbup:

Also have the same issues here after leaving the car standing for 10 days. Damp in boot, under rear passenger seat and soaked rear passenger foot well. Doesn't smell of washer fluid though!? Can I ask how you discovered your leak to be the high level brake light seal? Would you spare wheel well have been filled with water due to this? Thanks

So, is it agreed that the best budget coilover kit that will slam my car while providing acceptable levels of quality, ride comfort and handling is AP?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COIL-OVER-COILOVER-VW-LUPO-ADJUSTABLE-SUSPENSION-/180752818319?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a15b5208f These seem to be the cheapest coilovers I have seen. Hottuning! This company used to flood the E30zone website advertsing their stainless exhaust manifold. Obviously they are cheap as chips for coilovers so one would expect quality in the region of the others mentioned? Anyone running these or had experiences with them? I have heard of some bad stories about the company and the quality of their products, but I am considering these as a cheap method of lowering my car for road use only.

I struggle to believe that it's purely down to it being a deisel engine. My Escort van has a 1.8 NA deisel engine and it is rough and rattly at best, but it doesn't vibrate like the SDI on tickover. The whole cabin shakes and the tone of the vibration changes when doors and boot lid are opened. There must be something wrong. More investigating taking place today.

Surely they didn't leave the factory like that?! Got to be an age related problem. It's so bad in mine I feel like my brains are being scrambled when I sit at idle.

Have got EXACTLY the same problem with my SDI... First suspected engine mounts, then thought exhaust was hitting a heat shield or body somewhere. Lot of pissing about under the car today adjusting exhaust positions and it's still the same! Haven't replaced any engine mounts, but have checked them and they all seem good. Do hope this isn't a flywheel...

Just to add to this post I did exactly the same as the OP today on my SDI. The existing lock didn't have the spring and reatiner present!? I just added the new bits from the cheap eBay kit and fitted, although I have no idea where the spring goes. It still works fine without. Martin

Hi all, Just a quick update on this. I had a good check of the engine mounts yesterday and they seem pretty good. No visible signs of being shagged and when lifting the clutch up and down in first gear with the handbrake engaged it feels pretty tight. Also can't seem to see any kind of stabilizer bar, though I haven't had a look underneath as of yet. I'm wondering if an exhaust mount has gone somewhere and is somehow pressing the exhaust against the body of the car when idle??? Anyway, couple of other small issues discovered: - Fan only works on speed 4, resistor maybe? - Drivers door lock feels pretty stiff and unreliable. Can these be re-built? Thanks for all your responses to my first thread chaps. Here's a quick pick of her taken from my Iphone. Cheers

Yeah, I intend to check those as that had crossed my mind. Also the fact it's a deisel could be a factor, just can't believe how extreme the vibration is and how it completely disappears once revved. Thanks for the reply Deadmetal!

Evening all, Just joined the site as I bought a Lupo for the missus today. It's a 2000 1.7Sdi in soft blue and to be honest it was a steal. Very basic interior, but it all works and everything is in good nick. Exterior is also pretty good, just a few marks and dings. Anyway, the question I have is this: Whilst the car drives very well and pulls decent, at idle the whole cabin vibrates quit a bit. Once the engine is revved or when the car pulls away the vibrating stops, only to return when the revs sit at idle. Just wondered if anyone knew what this could be down to? It's done about 125000 miles if that makes any odds. Any help or advice much appreciated.