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Unplug the heater wire on the crankcase breather pipe, fit a new fuse, sorted! The UK doesn't need the heater element in the pipe anyway, been running mine like this for years! I see you are based in Surrey, whereabouts you from?

You can buy the strap on eBay cheap. Audi VW Fuel Cap Retaining Strap Tether Cord VW AUDI SEAT Skoda Fuel Cap Strap | eBay UK You knock 2 little pins out, the remainder of the strap comes out, push the new one in and refit the pins.

Just though id put a post on in case anyone else has this issue. So the immobiliser had got wet at some point which had caused pretty severe corrosion on the plugs side of the immobiliser board. If the immobiliser is completely dead there seems to be 2 options, you can either replace the ECU, immobiliser and key chips with one from a different GTi, the other option is sending the ECU to someone who can decode the immobiliser off the ECU. I opted for the immobiliser removal option so i sent it to VAGTRONICS in Stoke, who decoded it very quickly and got it sent back same day! Car now works perfectly! Thanks for all the help!

So the glue started failing since the car was exposed on the outdoor elements and aging perhaps. And so i discovered that I can put two more speakers in the back of the car because the panel covering the metal unglued itself: Is there some quick solution where I could wire the two additional speakers I have? I bough new ones which give better sound quality, but the ones in the front the car came with, I still keep them. Or this would be a job more for an electrician?

I guess I could try buying a KKL cable. A damage appraiser was able to scan the car a couple months ago so that might be it

Have you tried a different OBD2 lead? I have a few and only one (!!!) works on my Lupos and with VCDS... Same symptoms, looks like no power. I've never investigated why.

Yea the merc is a 2013 C class, but the device gets power from that even with the ignition off, because of the battery 12V pin. If you mean selecting KWP 2000 inside vcds then yea I tried that, but the problem is the device not getting any power form the car at all for some reason. if I at least got power but was unable to connect to the ecu, I'd have more options. I think I'll just have to give up and go to a shop. Though all I wanted to do was scan for codes and adjust my xenons after I got a new xenon level sensor and new bulbs

Merc is probably different and doesn't use the old K line from the 90's? Have you tried changing protocol?

I used a multimeter to measure Pin 4 and 16 and Pin 4 and 7 using the obd extension ignition on 4 and 16 is 12.5V 4 and 7 is 10.4V Engine running 4 and 16 is 13.8V 4 and 7 is 12.5V I simply cannot understand why it's not working with this car, but works with other cars. is there some other pin that I'm supposed to check

I also just tested the hex v2 on my mercedes again with and without the extension cable. both times I was able to read codes

Hi, just saw your reply. I noticed I was looking at the port upside down so I checked again with a multimeter and the respective pins on the port get power, I plugged the vcds Scanner into my mercedes and it got power there so it's not the scanner that's broken. Today I tried grinding down the plastic housing near the pins, so the pins can get in deeper but that also didn't work. I tried an OBD to OBD extension cable and that also didn't work. I can't seem to get any power to the vcds Scanner on the lupo. My cheapo Bluetooth scanner is at least getting power even if I can't read the car with it

This front subrame is for LHD cars (not UK)? And why scrap the car? Looks perfect...

I still have a complete front axel from a Lupo FSI from 2001. See picture. Feel free to contact me via www. willhaben.at go for "VW Lupo Teile" . If you find this picture you found me. Details are in German, but I can translate if needed.

Location?

nope, not yet luckily! hope i dont jinx it..

Are there any emissions regulations in Cambridge? I know Oxford near me now has restrictions... Older car? We must pay.

Hey all! Long time no see. Got a bit of a unique one for you today, my Lupo mingled with genuine rock history! Anyone here a fan of Pink Floyd? They're one of my favourite bands ever, so yesterday, I set it amongst myself and booked just one day off work to visit all around Cambridge, the hometown of original frontman Syd Barrett, bassist Roger Waters and Guitarist David Gilmour. There's a lot to unpack here, and being a day encapsulated in music, I've tried to tie this in with my car in some way. I left at a cheeky 4am to avoid the traffic on the M25/Dartford Crossing. As Cambridge is just 80 miles from me, I got to Grantchester Meadows at a measly 5:20am. It's genuinely a beautiful place, 50 acres of greenery and quietude. The relevance here being Pink Floyd recorded a song of the same name, talking of such in 1969 for their 'Ummagumma' album. I then visited David's, Syd's and Roger's childhood homes, but I won't include pictures here/talk further as I don't have pictures of my car there, and therefore is a bit off subject for an automotive forum. Well, all but one.. here's Otis in St. Margaret's Square, the road in which Syd's last house before he passed, is situated. I then visited a Syd Barrett plaque at the AR University, where he studied painting for a brief tenure, and visited the botanical gardens at Cambridge University (yes, THE Cambridge University!) where a memorial bench for Syd can be found. Afterwards, I visited (well, got to the closest I can without disturbing) the gates leading to Trinity House, a £3.5 million private mansion, the inside of which being where the 'Ummagumma' album cover was taken. The gates leading to the house are just slightly to the left in this picture. I visited lots more, and enough to keep me journeying around until I left at 7pm (meaning I spent 14 hours travelling around!) Cambridge has some lovely roads, namely the section of the M11 which goes into Cambridge, Newmarket Road going towards Stow-cum-quy, and little wilbraham road towards the M11 Southbound. All wonderful little roads as I say, and my loop took the whole thing like a champ. I must've stopped in between 15 and 20 locations, putting on around 40 miles in the process (not including the journey there and back, being 160 miles!) all using up half a tank, which when you consider the frequent stopping and city centre traffic, is quite good! I love my little car so much. Without it, I never could've done this memorable trip, and certainly not being able to do everything I wanted to do in just one day with free time to spare. Until next time folks, I hope you found this a pleasant read, documenting one man's travels in his Lupo!

Finally got chance to have another look today and decided to check the immobiliser, got it out and took the plastic covers off and there is a lot of corrosion on the board. There are multiple breaks in the tracks on the board which have been fixed but there may still be more which I haven’t found yet. I have tried putting the immobiliser back in but it still won’t start, I am wondering if the immobiliser needs resetting somehow to remove the block on the engine starting. Does anyone know if this may be the case? Also does anyone know if it’s possible to replace the immobiliser? Thanks

Hi All, My 2005 Lupo GTI has started blowing fuse 30, which I understand is exhaust gas recirculation value and activated charcoal solenoid valve. I have an MOT in a week so I'm keen to correct it. Does anyone know of a common failure in this area, or could recommend an approach to this particular fault? Pictures welcomed! All the best!

Yeah, it's going to happen to everyone I reckon. I spotted a ghetto strap fix on here a few years ago but can't find it. Was an elegant solution from what I remember. Anyone have any ideas where it might be?

Most of the OEM belts are made by Contitech, but Dayco and FEBI are decent brands too Have a look on Autodoc

Ross Tech Wiki shows this 17978/P1570/005488 - Ross-Tech Wiki and this for the other fault 18010/P1602/005634 - Ross-Tech Wiki

These are the codes that are coming up.

That really helpful thanks!! I’ve seen some stuff saying p1570 is a hard code and is difficult to get rid of does anyone know anything about this? Originally there was a code about low voltage which went after the battery was charged so wondering if it just needs hard clearing. I’ve cleared the code on vcds but it just comes straight back so I’m wondering if it isn’t fully clearing it? Thanks