sgtazza Posted October 30, 2008 Report Share Posted October 30, 2008 (edited) Has anyone had any experience of 'Ashley manifolds'?They are selling them on europerformance.co.uk and are supposedly for the 1.4 16v, which i hope should mean they'd fit fit without the hassle of the raceland manifold. ? Maybe? Edited October 30, 2008 by sgtazza Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bithmeister Posted October 30, 2008 Report Share Posted October 30, 2008 had an ashley 6 branch on my vrnot a very good fit ,had to be modified a bit it was cheap so you get what you pay for would be interesting to see how they fit on a loop though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgtazza Posted October 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2008 (edited) had an ashley 6 branch on my vrnot a very good fit ,had to be modified a bit it was cheap so you get what you pay for would be interesting to see how they fit on a loop thoughHmmm... not overly inspiring then! shame. Cost wise its not too far off the raceland item. Edited October 30, 2008 by sgtazza Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Bob Posted October 30, 2008 Report Share Posted October 30, 2008 yeah it'll fit straight on with no hassle unlike those cheap raceland ones. My Arosa Sport was used as the base car for them. I had John make me up a full system with it aswel, it'll be a 4-1 manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC02 FFF Posted October 30, 2008 Report Share Posted October 30, 2008 racelend iv seen for £120 brand new i have heard people ffitting the raceland without modification,, so im 50/50 maybe its just a precaution that its extremly close but it may actualy fit . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgtazza Posted October 31, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 yeah it'll fit straight on with no hassle unlike those cheap raceland ones. My Arosa Sport was used as the base car for them. I had John make me up a full system with it aswel, it'll be a 4-1 manifold.Thanks Mister Bob, looks like im gonna spend my hard won wod on the manifold in that case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tigz™ Posted October 31, 2008 Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 Raceland will not fit without mods.They may fit, but i'll rub on the sump and subframe.How much are these Ashley manifolds?Do you have a link or phone number? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niche Posted October 31, 2008 Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 (edited) Ashley Manifold - Europerformance08700 34 70 30 (Europerformance)I saw this months ago. But its like £200! Edited October 31, 2008 by Niche Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tigz™ Posted October 31, 2008 Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 I saw this months ago. But its like £200!If it doesnt rattle like the Raceland, and fits straight on its worth the extra IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niche Posted October 31, 2008 Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 If it doesnt rattle like the Raceland, and fits straight on its worth the extra IMO.Something we can both agree on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgtazza Posted October 31, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 If it doesnt rattle like the Raceland, and fits straight on its worth the extra IMO.Something we can both agree on! I'll let you guys know what its like when it turns up. At least if its a ditrect fit we know there is finally a Manifold out there that you dont need to poodle(?) about with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanK Posted October 31, 2008 Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 Im guessing that this will also fit a 1.4 s?Keep us updated, if its a good fit and theres no problems (and it will fit an s) then i might also get one.Main reason i don't want a raceland is the fact that it has to be bent to fit.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgtazza Posted October 31, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2008 Im guessing that this will also fit a 1.4 s?Keep us updated, if its a good fit and theres no problems (and it will fit an s) then i might also get one.Main reason i don't want a raceland is the fact that it has to be bent to fit....Yeah exactly, thats why when i saw this was for a 1.4 16v I thought i'd give it a go.Its been ordered so i'll fit it whenever it arrives and update the post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CasperGTI Posted November 19, 2008 Report Share Posted November 19, 2008 Any news on this one and how it fitted?John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kam Racing Posted November 20, 2008 Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 just thought I'd point out these are mild steel whereas the Raceland is stainless steel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niche Posted November 21, 2008 Report Share Posted November 21, 2008 (edited) Mild steel or not it should still last the cars lifetime.A good example are the manifolds from the Polo mk2 mk3 gt/g40.Yes they are rusty but they still work and haven't fallen to bits yet.I have highlighted what I believe to be the most important part of this quote.Why not use stainless steel hardware?Stainless steel exhaust hardware comes with many caveats. If the hardware doesn't rattle loose it will weld together with no hope of removal. Here's why:Stainless steel expands more than mild steel at the same temperature. When your exhaust heats up, the stainless hardware expands more and can come loose. Vibrations will cause the nuts to back off within a few miles. If stainless steel hardware stays tight, it's stuck forever.Stainless steel is known as a "gummy" metal. When stainless steel threads are torqued together tiny balls of metal snowball in between the threads and literally weld the threads together. This is called galling and can only be avoided by using plenty of anti-sieze compound. Even with anti-sieze we don't recommend stainless steel hardware.We include grade 5 zinc plated hardware with all of our downpipes. This hardware is corrosion resistant, but like anything will eventually rust over the years. Penetrating oil will help break them loose. They may put up a fight, but at least they will come off!Why not build the downpipe in stainless steel?Stainless steel has it's applications, and our downpipes aren't one of them. We feel strongly about our choice to use mild steel / aluminized piping and will be honest in our explanation why.Stainless steel has some advantages in extreme applications such as exhaust systems. One benefit to using stainless is initial corrosion resistance. Stainless piping can be polished to a mirror finish for a beautiful look in the show room. It can also save weight on a race car. Because stainless has a higher tensile strength it is possible to use thinner gauge pipe and achieve the same strength as a thicker mild steel. While these advantages make stainless steel a major selling point in aftermarket exhaust systems, the advantages are short lived and not worth the additional cost.95% of all stainless steel exhaust systems on the market use grade 304 stainless steel. 304 is a commonly available grade which exhibits all the characteristics of stainless at an affordable price. The #1 selling point of stainless steel is corrosion resistance. Salesman will tell you that 304 will never rust. A 304 exhaust system will rust, just give it some time. Improper polishing of 304 removes the additional carbon content on the surface of the metal. Once the polishing compounds and impurities are burned off the metal is much less resistant to oxidation. A polished 304 system will turn a golden brown color after a few heat cycles and begin to rust after 6 months in a corrosive environment. Additionally, welding stainless steel can actually cause rust. When TIG welding the area on the metal directly to the sides of the weld bead are called the heat affected zone (HAZ). When 304 is TIG welded the slightest bit of extra heat will change the properties of the metal in the HAZ allowing faster corrosion.Using thinner gauge pipe to save weight is a great idea on a race car. On a full interior or even gutted street car that mindset really isn't worth the possible risks. The only risk we're talking about is the system breaking. Fractures will happen at the weld joint in the HAZ. As mentioned above, the properties of the metal change in the HAZ weakening the metal. Besides the change in properties, the simple physics of connecting a 0.050" pipe to a 0.375" flange is asking for trouble. With the forces that are applied to the exhaust system during a hard run these connections are where the system will break. Butt welds and muffler - pipe welds can also cause problems.VW transversely mounted motors are notorious for excessive motor movement. Everyone at 42 has their VW projects and we've all experienced broken exhaust components due to excessive motor movement and wheel hop. On a street driven vehicle why risk breaking your exhaust system? A broken exhaust is an inconvenience for you, the customer and 42.Everyone at 42 has been building VWs and modifying them for years. Some of us have been tinkering with VWs for 10 years, while some of us have spent the last 5 building wild custom setups. We have experience using both mild steel and stainless steel exhaust components and systems. We are 100% confident in our choice of materials for our downpipes and exhaust systems. We are not going to build a product that we don't have 100% confidence in.For us, stainless steel is not the answer. We use 14 gauge (0.075") tubing which is coated in aluminum. This is known as "aluminized" tubing and is very resistant to corrosion and oxidation. Our flex sections are 100% stainless steel. This is one area where stainless is recommended. We use Magnaflow catalytic converters and mufflers. Magnaflow uses a low grade of stainless steel for their mufflers and catalytic converters. While not a high enough grade to call them "stainless steel", they are more corrosion resistant than uncoated mild steel. Magnaflow offers limited lifetime warranties on their products and we honor their warranties. We CNC machine our flanges from mild steel. These are uncoated and will be the first thing on the system to rust. The flanges are thicker than necessary and will not simply rust to pieces. That's just not possible.Yes, our systems will rust. All exhaust systems will rust. It's a question of how long will it take for the rust to affect the life of the system. We have discussed the vulnerable areas of a stainless steel system and have discussed the materials used to build our systems. Think about how long you plan to own your car and compare that to how long you need your exhaust system to last. Would you rather overpay for an initially more shiny system , or pay less for a stronger, more reliable system? Our systems are engineered to really fit, last a long time, and make power. Your choice.Corrosion resistance can be had. Ceramic coating is the most durable coating process available. When ceramic coated, a mild steel exhaust system can literally last forever. JET-HOT (www.jet-hot.com) offers many ceramic coatings which we use when possible. Their sterling coating is affordable, bulletproof, and great looking. We have used JET-HOT in the past and recommend their services to anyone interested in ceramic coating. Please visit the JET-HOT website and contact them to have your system coated.Other corrosion resistance options to exist. High temperature powder coatings can be used which will withstand 1000°. This is useful after the catalytic converter. The downpipe and cat can be heated to over 1500° during normal use. Also, high temperature paints can be purchased. If you plan to paint your system, be sure to closely follow the product's instructions. Prep the metal correctly and cure the coating and you will have no problems.We hope this has answered any questions you may have had about stainless steel use in exhaust system construction. If you have any additional questions or would like discuss this issue further, please contact Evan via email tech@42draftdesigns.com. Edited November 21, 2008 by Niche Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanK Posted January 1, 2009 Report Share Posted January 1, 2009 Thought ide bring this up again, any news on how it fitted?Im looking at getting a longlife cutom exhaust in the next couple of days but i would also like to replace the manifold to get the most from the system.If it fits well without any need to bend it then i will get one and ask the chaps down at longlife to fit it aswell as the exhaust they will make Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgtazza Posted April 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 Bringing up an old topic! Sorry!!I didnt even bother to fit the Ashley manifold in the end. although it was good Value for money i thought the workmanship in terms of quality to be pretty poor and it had no Lamda ports so that would have involved drilling and welding a nut onto it and frankly I couldnt be bothered.Ive been out of the scene for a few months (i have a new bike thats been sucking on my money!! boys will be boys! ) but plan on a raceland manifold and see how it feels with the rest of the system stock and if need be I'll upgrade the rest on an R&D basis.I will say if anyone does decide to get an ashley manifold they supplied mine with a decat pipe which was cool. No extra cost.Any thoughts on the above let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LupoJoe Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 had plenty of experience with them on the 106's, a mate had an ahsley on his and it fitted better and also gave better gains on the rr than my raceland, only problem was, it wasnt stainless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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