Dubya

Think about it for a sec style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> "click click click click click...." Brunette chick walks down the street, in knee length boots... With me yet?

YES! They're all the same basic chassis and running gear. Wheel fitment is the same for each style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> The only difference being, the gti ran a 205/45 tyre. Perfectly fine to run these on your non gti Lupo or Arosa also. I ran mine on my diesel for long enough style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

lol There's more to life than BBS Splits style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> They've been done to death in my opinion, but each to their own if your into that sort of thing style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

Fitment is the same... front poundage rate is wrong for a gti style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

...while sitting on the pavement wiring the mains to a cctv dome camera... Full-on money shot! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" /> style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":blink:" border="0" alt="blink.gif" /> style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":P" border="0" alt="tongue.gif" /> style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":shades:" border="0" alt="shades.gif" /> style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":blink:" border="0" alt="blink.gif" /> style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" />

Leave the stock cat in situ... style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Disclaimer: The thoughts or comments mentioned by certain individuals are their personal opinions, and do not reflect the status or opinion of Club Lupo as an organisation. This does not affect your statutory rights. Please do not fold.

You'll need the stub axles from a Lupo that ran discs... Converting to discs will give an increase in braking performance, over the stock drums (which are shocking, to be brutally honest). Any increase in performance at all, should warrant an increase in braking capabilities - to say leave the drums on and spend the money else-where is lunacy in my opinion. If your going for a TDI 150 conversion, you'll need big brakes on the front. I'd go with the Brembo's from the old shape Ibiza Cupra R. At the very least, you'll want discs on the back, and an adjustable bias valve. You'll have massive problems with locking brakes, and instability if you run the drums... style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Disclaimer: The thoughts or comments mentioned by certain individuals are their personal opinions, and do not reflect the status or opinion of Club Lupo as an organisation. This does not affect your statutory rights. Please do not fold.

The 2nd Lambda probe will pick up a difference in it's reading running a sports cat, and will throw up the warning light on the dash... style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":huh:" border="0" alt="huh.gif" /> Disclaimer: The thoughts or comments mentioned by certain individuals are their personal opinions, and do not reflect the status or opinion of Club Lupo as an organisation. This does not affect your statutory rights. Please do not fold.

It does stop dirt, but it's there as an inspection hole, so you can look into the clutch/flywheel assembly and line up the markings... just like Teflon said. Putting oil in there, just dumps it onto your clutch and not into your gearbox. It doesn't really matter if the cap comes loose - your clutch will burn off any dampness or moisture that may ingress, and it's unlikely any debris will fall into it (unless you open your bonnet and drop something into it). There's a plug on the side of the gearbox casing, for topping up/checking the level. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Disclaimer: The thoughts or comments mentioned by certain individuals are their personal opinions, and do not reflect the status or opinion of Club Lupo as an organisation. This does not affect your statutory rights. Please do not fold.

Slacken off the 3 retaining screws, and slide the light forward if your stuck. The cover should come away, same as the opposite side headlamp. Just check your beam alignment when you tighten the light back in place style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Disclaimer: The thoughts or comments mentioned by certain individuals are their personal opinions, and do not reflect the status or opinion of Club Lupo as an organisation. This does not affect your statutory rights. Please do not fold.

The mk1 arosa wiring is different to the mk2 arosa - the latter running less wires to each rear cluster, and in a different order. You'll need to run a reverse light link from one side to the other, and also a fog light link. This gives you 2 reverse and 2 fog lights. Then you need to switch the order of the cables within the multi-block to get the right feed to the right light style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Disclaimer: The thoughts or comments mentioned by certain individuals are their personal opinions, and do not reflect the status or opinion of Club Lupo as an organisation. This does not affect your statutory rights. Please do not fold.

You don't need to change the whole rear beam - it's the same item for all models. To convert to disc brakes, you only need to change the stub axles and hub assembly, which bolts onto the beam with 4 bolts. Rear brake bias is usually 30-35% of the overall braking capability, though some abs programs shift the bias depending on vehicle load. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Disclaimer: The thoughts or comments mentioned by certain individuals are their personal opinions, and do not reflect the status or opinion of Club Lupo as an organisation. This does not affect your statutory rights. Please do not fold.

You want 2 exhaust cams, then advance your cam to crank timing style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Fast road, or high lift cams shift the power curve up the rev range. You don't need to rag the hell out of them as people expect, but you do need to be a driver who uses the revs. Low end torque is usually reduced slightly, but, mid range and top end peak is massively increased. Pulling out and overtaking becomes so much easier, and the motor tends to keep pulling, rather than peak and then drop off (like all stock motors do). The motor tends to rev quicker also, with higher profile cams. Though... Cams are useless without a decently flowed head and intake/exhaust system - fitting an induction cone does jack. If your serious about tuning your motor with some cams, you need to be looking at manifolds/headers also. ABT can remap the brain to up the fueling, and you might well need a bigger FPR. I'm no expert, but just my 2 penneth chucked in for free style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> Disclaimer: The thoughts or comments mentioned by certain individuals are their personal opinions, and do not reflect the status or opinion of Club Lupo as an organisation. This does not affect your statutory rights. Please do not fold.

The capacity decrease is usually done on the crank... hence the difference in stroke. You don't get one without the other, it's an engineering norm, and VW don't tend to change bore sizes and pistons unless they really have to. The decrease is only 200cc - 50cc per cylinder, that's millimetres on a crank stroke. The term 'sleeved down' is a saying - it has nothing to do with sleeving a cylinder in this instance. The mk4 Polo bay that the 1.9 was fitted to, is the same size as the Lupo. The subframe mounting, alters the height of the block within that bay. There's no reason why the 1.9 Polo motor can't be fitted to the Lupo bay, and conversely, why the 1.7 Lupo motor can't be fitted to the Polo bay style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

I'd tow it back to where you bought it from, and have words... Compensation style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

Put the wheels on and see if they catch. Would be simpler in my opinion... The 15's on the rear of my diesel are spaced 20mm, running 195/50 tyres, lowered 40mm, and don't catch on stock fenders. So unless your lowered a massive amount, the only problem you should have would be the fronts on lock - 1/4 turn and full. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Demon Tweeks? Sparco direct? style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":huh:" border="0" alt="huh.gif" />

To seal the exposed edge. When you fold them back, you cut into the lip for it to expand. Also, you need to remove the paint to weld it smooth. It's easier to seal the arch, than try and spray the back edge with paint and primer. Besides which, it'll last longer style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

I've run 20mm spacers on the rear of my gti since day one of ownership - so 40mm increase in track width. I've had a number of different wheels on the car, and ran a load of different ride heights. Not had any problems at all, though the wheel bearings will age prematurely style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Just put wheels on that fit style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

If your wheel scrubs now, the worst that'll happen is your tyre touching up against the flat return lip of the fender. Over time/big bump etc it might catch and start to re-shape the lip - maybe start rubbing the side wall. If you grind that flat lip away, you leave a knife edge around the inside edge of the fender. If your tyre catches that, it'll slice through... Besides which, your MOT guy will fail it. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Depends what tyre model you buy... If you by the directional ones, they're better than the equivalent Yoko for dry weather grip, and damp conditions. The uni-directional ones aren't all that brilliant, as they're a compromise tread pattern. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Try Steve Denton at Premier in Northampton. He's your man for rolling and flaring your fenders - usually custom done to the wheel/tyre package that you want to run. He did the arches on a couple of my old Mk2 Golf's, back in the day of running wide ass BBS splits style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Last time I had it done, it was around the £200 + vat mark for all 4. Not sure if it's gone up after recent market trends though style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

Take the bumper off, you'll find the damage more than likely looks a lot simpler than it currently does in that pic. That section of the rear panel is open to the inside of the boot. So you can beat the panel back into shape relatively easily. Failing that, you can cut along the seams and replace the entire bottom panel. The section underneath the bumper looks intact. So I'm guessing the bumper took the full impact and twisted up into the panel. Relatively simple to repair in my opinion style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> By the way, I'd ignore these gimps on here who moan about the age/value of the car. They didn't know Volkswagen existed pre Lupo style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

You'd need to fabricate a custom intake manifold to replace the current plastic item. You'll also need another throttle body to replace the current plastic item. You'll need to fabricate a turbo mounting/exhaust manifold and downpipe, boost pipes, and you'll need to look at compression and vacuums. Fueling is mechanical; there is no ecu as such to map on an SDI. You'll also only be able to run a tiny turbocharger on the motor as it doesn't rev, so you'll more than likely max out at 100bhp or less. You wont be able to spin anything up quick enough, or for long enough to get any massive power gains style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> A massive amount of work for upto a 40hp gain in my opinion. I'd go with a stock TDI Lupo to be honest, though you might struggle to get a good one for that £3k style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />