Dubya

So raise it then... style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":rolleyes:" border="0" alt="rolleyes.gif" /> What's the point of running it so low, if you can't drive the fooker along a normal road? style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":huh:" border="0" alt="huh.gif" />

I've proved it, and I'm running it mate style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> I've not built it for racing, i've done it for daily driving. The 1.9 will rev a lot higher than VW take it, and with revs, comes smoother power delivery. Low-rev-high-horsepower setup means you get all the power all at once, and then it shuts off. A higher revving diesel runs more like a forced induction petrol motor, so everything is more progressive... The only 'failure' I have, is the clutch springs. The stock clutch cannot take the abuse, so the springs break up - which then shocks the gearbox and usually detonates it. There isn't a better clutch plate on the market for the 1.9 motor. Considering I'm not anything to do with Volkswagen, or Volkswagen Motorsport, I'll gladly show the Establishment that I'm not actually 'way off with the 1.9' style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

The 1.9 is a stronger motor than the current 2.0l. The 1.9 head has better flow characteristics through it for tuning potential, and can ultimately rev higher than the 2.0l motor. The 1.9 PD motor with the current Seat Leon FR Turbo will easily see 200hp, and will run forever without a glitch. The clutch springs are the killer on tuned diesel motors. They can't take the shock loading from the power delivery... style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Go with a lower front strut on the gti instead. There's not that much flex across the top of the struts to really warrant a brace, with a stock motor style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Not me, that's for sure. I'm only 5ft 8 style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" />

lol you might struggle with the gti 'bodykit' style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> 200hp diesel motor is easy. Start with the 1.9 PD motor out of the Golf... You'll get better tuning potential than with 2.0l motors. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

The complete RM centre cap (plastic nut shaped section, with backing ring, and BBS logo cap) is only about £30 a corner from the Dealers, if I remember right... Though, try Motorsport Wheels in London. They are the UK BBS Distributors... or were... They can get new caps directly from BBS, and were slightly cheaper last time I used them. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

..empty out your PM Inbox a little style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> My PM's keep bouncing back style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":huh:" border="0" alt="huh.gif" />

That's the whole point of a remap - you tune your modded motor for peak performance. However, there's no point in remapping your Gti if the motor is stock, as you wont gain anything from it. The stock map on a Gti is pretty damn good to begin with. It's not the same as mapping a Turbo motor... style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Geez... You could probably get a whole new downpipe from the dealers for that... There's no benefit in replacing it in stainless. It'll build up heat quicker, but may last a couple years longer than a mild steel item. There's also no real point in de-catting it. The stock cat isn't as restrictive as you might think, and if the Sport is the same as the GTi, it'll run worse without it. Plus, if the rest of the system is stock, and the motor is stock... then there really is no point at all. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

I'll disagree. The gti motor wont ever rev to 14k revs in a month of Sundays. You wont get it past 9500 without rebuilding it every other week. Besides which, no Supercharger will ever rev that high. For crank speed to match the 'charger drive shaft, and both max out at the same revs, you'll be running a big ass pulley on the crank. Which in turn means, you'll be getting **** all in boost pressure, as it wont be spinning up style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> The chassis itself will take more. The downfall is it's front wheel drive... Any power increase demands a brake upgrade, and atleast some stiffer springs. If your looking at that sort of power, you NEED big brakes, coilies, larger anti-roll bar, and a custom gearbox/diff setup... at the very least. The gti in stock form is very torque-steery, in that, you plant your foot in the lower gears, and one wheel will grab and pull you off in that direction. Run a lot of camber on the front, and the inside wheel will usually break away and spin up. Increase the power, and it gets worse. 220hp is about the maximum a front wheel drive can cope with, to still be able to steer and put power down. In a daily used gti, i wouldn't want anything near that... style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Define reasonable... baring in mind, no form of tuning is "cheap" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Not a cat in hells chance! The old 2.0l 16v motor from the Golf... fully race tuned, lightened and balanced, running on side draught Webbers would struggle to see 240hp at 9500rpm. Without a massive capacity increase, the 1.6 gti motor will struggle to see 190hp normally aspirated... You wont get 100's of horsepower from bolting on a supercharger either. A fully tuned 1.8 8v G60 motor would only achieve 250hp, and that was designed to be forced induction from the start! Unless you can prove otherwise, of course? style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

Rubbish. You couldn't gain 250hp with a gti motor... It'd max out at 250/270hp converted. You wouldn't get a supercharger to spin up quick enough to produce that sort of boost, and consequently, the motor wouldn't take it. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Yup style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> If you're willing to pay for it style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> Yup style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> I'm not a big fan of volkswagen's forced induction motors. I think the 20v motor is w8nk in stock form... But the Rothe kit was/is awesome. Best Turbo'd motor I'd ever driven style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /> It now stands in a garage as a memorial piece, so wont be clocking up many more miles, sadly.

You need to get out more... style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> The lamps are different. To fit the indicator lamps into the bumper you'd have to mod it. To convert your fogs to indicators, you'd need to buy another fog - so may aswell stay as you are. What's the purpose of the funnels and air intakes? They do nothing when you are stationary, or in town traffic. And at motorway speeds, they'll just fill your 'bay up with air that has no where to go - that's why the front end of the car is relatively sealed. In effect, it'll just act like a wind break, and cause you to use more fuel. The intake pipe wont cool any air that passes through it. It'll only transfer it to another part of the bay. If you want a cold air feed, you need to take it from a low pressure cold point. That's why they come out of the wing as apposed to the front of the car... style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Wait wait wait... That reads... They're not tuneable, because there are no off-the-shelf parts for them.. They are tuneable, and by quite a massive amount in some cases. No tuning of any normally aspirated motor is cheap. You get very little power increase for the actual cost at the end of it. If your serious about tuning, then the costs involved are budgeted for. Simple as... There are no quick fixes that get you massive gains, in any sort of motor tuning. Bare in mind the millions manufacturers invest, to develop motors in the first place! There are normally aspirated options available for the GTI, aswell as forced induction (turbo or supercharger). Expect 20-30hp gain for upto around £2k normally aspirated. And anything from 40-100hp gains when it comes to forced induction, but expect a hefty bill at the end of it... style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Turbo...

Fitting an induction kit wont fool your motor into thinking it's running cold, so it wont pump in more fuel. Fitting an induction kit to a stock motor doesn't increase any air intake, so it wont pump in any more fuel either. If your motor thought it was cold, because you'd shorted out the air flow sensor, when infact it was warm, it'd run like a rich sack of ****. You'd end up dumping fuel... To gain any performance benefit from fitting an induction kit, you'd have to increase the flow through the head, and then remap it to compensate for fueling. But in answer to the question, and to confirm Tigz' answer... it's your right foot that causes the increase in fuel consumption. You hold the throttle open longer and harder, because you think it sounds better. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

What he said. Fcuked cv joint... style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Rothe Motorsport. Bolt-on kit, with everything needed for the conversion. £3k gets you 180bhp, and anything up to £7k gets you 220/230bhp. Bullet proof reliability style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Spotted 2 Lupo GTi's today, at the A508/A45/M1 Junction. One was raven blue, driven by a woman - had a DAF private plate. T'other was reflex silver, driven by a youngish lad. Both standard ride height and on bathursts, from what I could see... style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> I was sat on the roundabout testing cables style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":blink:" border="0" alt="blink.gif" />

A turbo upgrade style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

On one hand: I'd be gutted by the fact that someone had done that to the car... but on the other hand: I'd be pleased as punch. I think the TT filler cap is nasty, and looks like a wart on most cars style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" />

That's feasible, but they have to... legally. The Highways Act is a government guideline, which sets out what you can and can't do on a Public Highway - with respect to Maintanence/Enforcment and Protection of Right of Way/Use of the highway itself, and it's class etc etc... Basically, The Police have to work to this same Highways Act, in the same way I have to. If I need to close of a road section for Maintenance say, I need to look at Right of Ways, highway class (whether it's a main road, whether it's a trunk road, or a side road), and I need to look at lighting, signing and guarding, along with a whole host of other aspects. The Police work on the highway, so legally, have to look at all the same aspects whenever they undertake a task. EVERY speed camera van in the Country BREAKS the Highways Act. They don't have flashing amber beacons on their roof, that are visible from all angles. They don't have red and yellow warning chevrons across the back of the vehicle. They don't, typically, have any proper markings on them to show what they are (most are plain vans these days). And NONE park up on the verge/kerbside and cone off a safety zone... let alone, put up extra warning signs at set distances from the safety zone to warn drivers. The drivers/operators typically, don't wear the correct PPE for visibility and protection either. If they did, they'd never catch anyone... because you'd see them a mile off. When a traffic cop pulls you over, he's working on the highway. He can't ask you to stop on the hard shoulder, or on a soft verge, he has to move you on to a safe parking area away from the roadside. IF he stops you on the roadside, he legally has to cone off a safety zone, has to park up with his beacons flashing, and has to display road signs to warn other motorists of their presence. He also has to wear the right PPE - high vis jacket, boots etc. The cop that pulled me, didn't. He never put his jacket on, and didn't have any beacons on his car roof - only the blue flashers in his front grill, and side light/head light strobes... A petty technicality, but a technicality non the less. Protest against a safety camera van conviction, on the basis that they break the Highways Act, and chances are they'll drop the case. style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

Your exactly right, our kid. I really couldn't agree with you more.... There's a time and a place for speed. 5/10mph here or there, you could probably get away with, but anything else is plain loonacy on the roads these days. If it wasn't for the fact that The Highways Act is now a big part of my job, I wouldn't have known any different. Most people in the UK don't even know that it exists, or what it sets out. It could so easily have all gone totally pear-shaped... style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":huh:" border="0" alt="huh.gif" />