Jabo

Praise the Lord! can't belive my peepers! Jabo's correct? I think I'll get drunk tonight style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" /> style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" /> :wink:

The simplest way is to hack your bonnet up and make an air scoop. Not only it will be ambiet temp at all times due to extremely short travel time (make as close to throttle as possible) but also would create an air ram jet effect at higher speeds. Additional benefit of cleaner air is a bonus. Natirally aspirated motors are easy, unless you ara adamant on keeping your bonnet stock style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> If you really want to fiddle with `re-routing` your air intake within engine bay use hi temp thermal insulation - it easily withstands engine temps.

It looks like we are talking about BMC induction kits here. Has anyone tried BMC replacement air filter element?

hat's a very good question, will come handy when I get about to installing rear srut braces!

taking door infil panel is a doddle mate. all it takes is unscrewing it and it prys out neatly - you'd need torx bits to avoid leaving any marks on screw heads

He hehehehe I know twindustries style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":P" border="0" alt="tongue.gif" /> Well, it explains all the basic theory.... and Mazdas are not so bad imho style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> (rotary engine is soo sweet)

I can spin my Loop 180 anytime, fast yank on the hand brake and it goes like stink! EDIT: In wet so far, too scared to do it on dry tarmac - stock with no ARBs is way too high for my liking...

Old '`slow-in`-`fast-out`' mantra huh? style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":P" border="0" alt="tongue.gif" /> Nicely put snoopstah, what you wrote holds true bar racin low power machines when traction circle principle has little bearing at corners exit hence it is more beneficial to do cotrolled power slide cornering than mathematically correct one. Here is the whole thing explained, please note conclusions to Part 18 style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> http://www.miata.net/sport/Physics/index.html Those with allergies to maths and physics do not enter style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=";)" border="0" alt="wink.gif" />

How much is it? Have you got a link?

style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":(" border="0" alt="sad.gif" /> I wish I was friends with Rubinho... as far as LFB is concerned quite to the contrary, everybody else use this technique since it has lots of benefits in F1 car (moreprecise breaking points, faster back on throttle, get more temp into breakes if needed, Shumi is known to use breake pedal and acc. pedal at the same time!) twindustries is right in thinking that FBW cars are not good with left foot braking or `toe-heel` techniques since ECU prevents that in large amount. I'd be of opinion that `toe-heel` thingie would make more sense than LFB but it eats away clutch.... p88bel= so n your experience Falkens were *****.... hmmm looks like F1s then style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

It doesn't style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":P" border="0" alt="tongue.gif" /> Haven't driven a car powerful nuff to be able to use it style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":(" border="0" alt="sad.gif" /> Which is not to the point exactly since R. Barichello and me thinks DC do not use LFB techniques and ther isn't anything quicker than F1, is there style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" /> Getting back to tyres... Has anyone tried Falken rubber? It is a big Jap band afterall and prices are competetive...

No, I haven't. How much is it? Got a link ?

twindustries=> you must have an exeptionally high driving sjills standards then m8! snoopstah=> that's what I was writing on about, FWD tarmac rally technique. Hairpins are always taken with hand brake use and have nothing to do with power sliding style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />. It does improve times since your entry speed is higher which equals higher exit speed and much sooner power application (or constant controlled power feed) maxes out cars potential. Lifting `in-corner` means your racing line was crap to begin with and entry speed to high for you to control; going in at a speed where tyres do nat squel - what's the point, you going to slow to be competitive anyway, go for a pit instead; finding the sweet spot between the two is what I am after. I can only do it on roads I know and corners I tried it at few times before I get it going... it is damm dificult to get right imho. Anyway, whatever you call it, ability do drive or rallye technique it takes lots of time to get to feel your car and skill to be able to do it

He he he - nice one! style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":P" border="0" alt="tongue.gif" />

You mean this one? http://www.dunloptire.com/catalog/spRace.html

I dunno about the rolling radius thingie mate... if the last two numbers are the same then rolling radius is exacly the same no matter what the first number is.... that's what I thought and then I checked this site: http://www.tyresave.co.uk/tyresize.html It looks like the wider the a trye the large ocerall diameter of the tyre becomes... So I'd need 195/50/14 then style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> only -8mm diff. snoopstah => Yes, it is a common mindset (or me not expressing myself properly) that when you say powerslide everybody thinks `drift-like` behaviour of a car, which makes it obvious that it must be RWD machine. By power sliding FWD car I mean controlling cars behaviour in such a way that it is NOT overcooked and you just move sideways but speed and power aplied to your wheels is such that it keeps the car inbetween `sliding-in` cornering and `out-of`-control sideways slide into a corner. Benefit? You are puting much more power into the tarmac compared to non slide F1 style cornering which results in increased exit acceleration and speed (partialy due to higher entrance speed as well). YOu are right that full blown `slid-in` into a corner like you see on films is just a waste of time and tyres and it is made purely for show style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> YOu can call what I desribed above as power induced and controlled understeer - car is position or a line taken trhough a corner is mostly power applied dependant, not steering dependant style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> and it chews trough tyres at fascinating rate !

If you do not powerslide a front wheeler into corners you are not trying hard nuff mate:) That's why I need new fronts every year style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> The best time is just before I fit new ones and fronts are totally bald = 100%illegal. Nothing compares to road driving on slicks in the summer.... I was doing it with my former slug of A3. I fiited new set of rubber just before I sold her and after 4 weeks i managed to get trough half of the thread on fronts style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" />. They were Firestone, amazing tyres btw - at first they are total ***** but when the thread goes down 1mm they literally stay sucked to the road. For some reason my TDi doesn;t have ABS brakes and on Saturday I got caught by it and slid into a roundabout.... before old habits returned and I regained the control of the car (scary crap, dual carriage way leading into a tight roundabout... in rain). I am on Contis and they are absolutely hopless in the rain! Change if you can. When I murder my current set I am going for either one size width up to 195/55/14 on stock Kaylami alloys (Goodyear Potenza rubber - would they fit???) or I'l go fir stock size of 185/55/14 F1 ones

Bikerz, I can get your name or nick in Japanese (one of the three alphabets) if you want (my better half knows the language) so you could have some cool Jap stenciled graphics meaning something real and usual 'Sechuan chiken in balck bean sauce' style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":P" border="0" alt="tongue.gif" /> Here it is EDIT: Oh, it means 'Jabo' - phonetic transcript

Welcome to da cloob loopo style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> Enjoy the ride!

:shock: :shock: style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":lol:" border="0" alt="laugh.gif" />

Welcome to VW Servicing garages mate style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":D" border="0" alt="biggrin.gif" />

I managed to get access to both and only ETKA gives part numbers, ELSA seems to be for maintenance and repairs purposes mainly (I only had a play with it for some time and I am no expert so if there's a way to get part numbers I am all ears, or eyes in here style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /> )

Drive Loop back and ask them to fit one while you wait! P.S. Wouldn't you rather need ETKA?)

Dear me, we are getting seripusly paranoid here style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":P" border="0" alt="tongue.gif" /> .... I must agree with you mate though, I'd get bodyshop receit and all the details possible or to be sneaky get the name and number of a bodyshope they use and call them directly without VE Stealership involvement style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":)" border="0" alt="smile.gif" />

LOL seems like a common problem! Had the same story, in my case tehy kept sending a certificate with wrong registration numbert on it, TWICE!