ArosaScott

@Skajme You and MK2 was spot on. It took about 10 minutes to swap everything over, most annoying part was getting the plug/clip off. Coil Pack - £25 Spark Plug Leads - £13 (InterMotor)

The cable ties holding the leads onto the coil pack maybe had something to do with it. (Been like that since the day i bought the car) noticed A & D was also super loose on the coil pack.

Ok new coil and spark plug leads fitted and i think i see the problem. on the coil pack PORT A & D look very grey with corrosion while C & B looked fairly clean. We also saw the same results on the old spark plug leads which connected to A & D looked very worn while C & B looked fine. About to take it for a test drive and with some luck it will have solved the issue. https://imgur.com/a/YCqXlHM <- Pictures of bad ports, and the clean ones.

thank you for the replies, i ordered a new set of HT leads last night and today ill order a coil pack.

@mk2 Super quick on the reply thank you mate. So i have indeed just ordered some new leads, so you think try them first before buying a coil pack? Anything else to look out for mate?

Ok so the other day i was driving like i normally do and was in 5th at 30mph (been doing that since ownership of the rosa, over 2 years) but then i was coming out of a 30mph into a 50mph pressed down on the throttle to increase speed and it started to stutter / tug, whatever you like to call it (felt like if you was going to stall) since then its been doing it in other gears when i go to apply more throttle. So i had the spark plugs out, all spot on not an issue... so my question is can anybody tell me any common problems or things i need to change? Reading Coil pack / HT leads?

was skimming ebay not sure if these are what youre after? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352692497860?hash=item521e1c6dc4:g:-zMAAOSwJkNdBMOf

Front brake pads and discs all swapped over, had to order a full of new bolt and sliders and the ribber seat for the calipers as the bolts was well rounded, i cant stand allen key head bolts, so prone to rounding its unreal. ended up having to hammer in some hex head keys to get them out, but replaced them all with fresh bolts etc.

Thanks @James_VW yeah i got drums on the back. So simple push back on the fronts with a G Clamp sorted. Got MOT coming up so done a full service and doing the brakes and pads also and a brake fluid flush. Only annoying thing is when i put the engine cover back on and put the bolts up, 1 of the 2 bolts that hold the cover on the engine snapped, there is enough bolt to get a set of grips on to get the bolt out but really annoying, anybody happen to know the size i need to replace a cover bolt?

Do the calipers on a Mk2 Rosa (2004) have wind back pistons on the front or just push back? Thanks.

Yeah im the same i always like to make sure its 'all done right' and if im there anyway it makes sense to do the lot. Yeah thats really weird maybe another of the regs on here will come along with some useful info on them. Hope you got / getting the issue resolved.

Lesson learned on the wishbones mate, was they listed for a rosa? One thing we messed up on was we installed the new wishbones and lower pin with the 3 bolts was not doing up the bolts. I said to my mate as we was doing it make sure them 3 bolts are tight, thought nohting of it drove to get the tracking done (as also did track rod and trackrod ends) and they did it twice came back to check and every time it was off again he then called me over explained something isnt right and just as he started showing me on the ramp he noticed what it was, 5 minutes later, 6 tightened bolts and 1 more time tracking it was sorted, was a sound lad also and didnt charge me for the messing about which was good of him. Simple mistake to make suppose moral of the story is always double check everything! Also i notice some nice shiny new brake shields, im going to do a full brake replacement soon (this time also changing all the brake fluid) just because ECP has a 45% sale on brakes and pads, so bought new sets for the front and want to replace the shields also seen them for £26 delivered eBay (without bolts) any cheaper from where you got them from?

Looking great keep the pictures coming! Not going to underseal the whole subframe?

Nah you're good, no problems at all. Anything that helps others is all good!

I'll save anybody the hassle, don't bother with them above item. I ordered one late last night on amazon prime, paid a little extra but thought if it works well i paid £4 more than say eBay, it don't work and i send it back. Connected it all up as per instructions an double checked it all, powered up and nothing on dab. FM channels was better but there was nothing for dab made sure all settings was correct factory aerial as recommended but nothing, so within half hour of it landing on my door mat, its being returned just as quick. So for now the ugly window mount stays but it works flawlessly, its just so bloody ugly.

I have done all the above over the last year or so not really because they needed doing as such but just because the prices are really cheap to replace them, infact pretty much all the underside is less than 2 years old. Tie rods and arms was Vaico (£15 each) Front and Rear Springs - Mapco (£20 / £20) Rear Bump Stops and dust covers - Monroe (£12) Rear exhuast - Vegaz (£27) and Vaico holders front and rear (£9 total) Control Arms (wishbones) £48 for the pair, from a company on eBay i think called PowerX Customs or something. arb drop links was also from PowerX Customs £10 for the pair Front and Rear Shocks was i think £50 and £32 by Continental Direct Rear Drums and Front Discs and Pads was ECP specials around £50 with one of their discount codes. Keep the pictures coming love to see peoples progress. (Also drivers side control arm bolts a sod, had to undo the engine mount bolt and use a block of wood under the sump and jack it up a touch to get the bolt in and out)

Yes i used to have a single din sony dab unit but i bought a Kenwood DMX125DAB double din unit, it works great and the dab is spot on with the glass mount but theure bloody ugly and the pack of A pillar plastics to hide the cable and copper earth strip also really bugs me. I did look at getting a replacement aerial and replace the factory aerial on the rossa but really can't be arsed to drop the roof lining etc. This dab splitter <- clicky ebay link, seems to have what these aerials have just behind the head unit instead of in the aerial itself, has a 12v power feed, then FM and dab aerials, for the sake of it im tempted to try it because i wouldnt have to remove the glass mount until i knew the new dab aerial worked. Small tech question, if i was to use it could i connect the 12v to the headunit loom for Power Antenna (purple wire) or is it better just to scotch lock into the ignition wire? The unit you picked up looks smooth and still very much factory like, but with dab would be a great addition.

Has anybody tried one of these, its a little box, with box a normal FM aerial and then a SMB dab aerial with a power supply you can scotch lock onto the ignition live of say the head unit and then its supposed to turn your normal car aerial into dab. I do already use a window sticker one, but theyre ugly so if i can get rid then its worth the try but just wanted to ask if anybody else has used one to get abit of feedback before buying one?

Update. 200mm needed, replaced rear shoes and drums with ease, while i was there also changed my rear shocks also 2x16mm Spanners to drop bottom bolt and then i used a rachet 16mm spanner and a 6mm spanner to hold the top point to undo the top thread, replaced shock, and went with Monroe dust cover and bump stops.

Going to replace my rear shoes and drums, but looking online there seems to be two sizes. 180mm / 200mm which size is correct? with a 7" / 8" rear Drum. Also worth replacing all the springs while im at it? (Seat Arosa, 04 Plate, 1.0s)

Thank you for the information. Is this something i can go to my local VW parts store, or able to buy online at all?

Ok thinking of doing a full flush and replace of the coolant as ive now owned the car just over 2 years and i don't know when it was last done before my ownership. So heres the question what do i use, as a google tells me G12 Red some now say G13 .. I also see G12's / G13's in different colours and some are even a G12+ Can anybody link me to what i need. Seat Arosa 2004 1.0s

@Rich Wait, really? I'll have to investigate it. Any idea of the size, and will i have to run my own speaker wires?

@Rich I actually do have somewhere in the garage a fiberglass parcel shelf i bought off eBay last year with the intention of fitting some 6x9's but still not done it yet, im great at buying stuff to do jobs, or thinking ill get this that and the other done and leaving it ages! @mk2 I'll try get some pictures at some point should i ever go to change something or if i hear a rattle, its very straight forward only pain is the rivets. You wouldn't even tell i had changed the speakers if you was to look at it, all looks OEM

Speakers all replaced, and a great improvement from the old blown speakers (left 1 had a split in) - Remove 4 philip headscrews on door card and remove door card. Door card will come down in a downwards motion. - Unclip speaker wire adapter from speaker. (Squeeze tabs either side and pull) - Use a drill and drill bit to drill out the 4 rivets holding the speaker in place. - Screw new Speaker Adapter plate in (I used a set of U Clips and Small screws) Adapter plate is needed or when window goes down it will hit the speaker magnet - Connect wires to new speakers and refit the new speakers into the adapater bracket. Double check all is secure and tight, so it dont rattle when you have the sound on - refit door card by lining up the 4 top slotted groves and then once card is flush reput 4 philips screws into the bottom of the door cards.