mk2

Door leak fix quest is continuing... I need two of these clips: One for each side. Not clever design. They're made of what looks like Nylon. Nylon doesn't like organic oily compounds on it- and guess what the inside of the door has been sprayed with anti rust wax. Not good combo. Makes for a brittle clip. Snap! (but it wasn't me gov. Honest!) this is the seal that is also needed (4 actually):

Sounds like the complete opposite of running on LPG... I had a play with that a few years back too, and it works really well once warmed up. The engine oil gets runnier and runnier, and the wierdest thing is that the oil never ever goes black. There is no soot generated, as the fuel is in a gaseous form and mixes really well, for a good clean and even burn. The valves get knackerd quick though. Thanks Skezza

Leaking?!? Er, I think Niagara falls would summarise it quite well. The foam pieces are completely missing in some places. This morning i was about to do some mechanical work to it, just to get it going properly, and i noticed loads of condensation on all the windows. Instantly came to the conclusion that there must be a leak. Used to them with my mk2... Carpet is soaked, but stangely no smell. It was kept garaged up till I bought it. All out. I just need that wierd clip that clamps the window cables to the inside door panel plus a shed load of panel clips... Ebay I think for them. Lots of silicone lube and back together again. Yeah thanks for the suggestion to seal it. I was thinking along the same lines. Can't use silicone glue, as it peels off. It'll have to be gutter sealant or something similar.

Any suggestions what is the best way to proceed? Obviously all the door clips will need replacing- Blue tack doesn't cut the mustard. And, er, I think those weather seals will also need doing, but should I go OEM from the stealers or just use some plastic sheet? Clearly some 'mechanic' had no idea what those little sheets of foam are for... Grrr. Also the clips that hold the window cables in place have also popped... I bet they're expensive. I thought it was a bit breezy in the car while driving it home those 180 miles. Anything else I could do while everything is in pieces?

I wonder what causes it. Any ideas? It doesn't happen with Peanut oil.

I have 8 pics

I've played with veg oil (SVO) before and after long usage the result is you end up paying for lots of new parts. The problem is that the glycerol and fatty acids hydrogenate (turn to a stiff brown plastic like material), when the fuel gets really hot. The engine runs fine on SVO for a while, but the seals and compression pumps start to either stick or leak after a couple of years. This is especually true with canola, sunflower, rape seed and general veg oil. Peanut (groundnut) oil is completely different though. Then it's a case of complete dismantling all of the components ot replacing them. Although adding heating oil up to about 15% did help... Diesters (where them glycerols have been removed) are great, but you end up paying almost the same as regular diesel. And you don't have the advantage of the added 'detergents' giving you a clean burn.

After 2 hours very close scrutiny- The bad news: Very slight rust in one of the roof channels. Electric windows are not brilliant. Near side door seal doesn't touch perfectly at the top. Only one key. No servicing for about 12 months- Lots needs doing. Awful tyres (some chinese cr@p). Remote central locking intermittent. Very slight rust around rear wheel arches. A couple of very light scuffs to front and rear bumper- but they're going anyway. Alloys have been kerbed (new ones or renovate????) The good news: New pedal box. Gearbox is sweet. Doors, hinges and locks are as new. Interior as new (seriously!). New exhaust. Engine runs like new- very very smooth. Economy excellent- just did about 80MPG at 60 the whole way home. No modifications anywhere (that I can see). 60k miles. £2k Now I need to spend some money on lots of mods... Service stuff first though. SORN till then. I'll post some pics of various items of interest as they are now, just purchased. Now which body kit were people recommending? Some just don't fit, and some go straight onto the mountings.

CV joint? Diff? Power steering servo valve (in the rack)? Exhaust rattle?

Never done one of these on a Lupo, but if it's anything like other Vee dubs, you need to make sure that the bolt centre pivot runs under instead of over the centre. God it's really hard to describe. One way, tightening it will tighten the belt, the other way will loosen it. It's an eccentric cam type arrangement, where the centre of the cam is the pivot. You know you have it the right way round if you have it only loosely tightened it gets looser (is that a word) when you apply more tensioning force on the belt. If it gets tighter, you need to rotate the cam about 300 degrees so it goes from below. Sounds like it's ok now though, so leave it alone!. But it shouldn't run right up against the edge. The belt should fit right in the middle of the pulley. The tooth face of the pulley is curved so that it forces the belt to run along the centre line (like old steam engine belts)...

I don't think they have DMFs. Could the vibration be a misfire? (misinjection...)

Too much torque in a little car is never good... Power yes, but torque no. I completely agree. I think probably 130hp will be enough. So I've been thinking about haldex to help with all the torque distribution. I wonder if there's the space where the tank and rear subframe goes... Would need a custom propshaft and a few bit's'n'pieces around the back, along with cutting out the spare wheel well. The car would be well balanced. When we did the 4WD 3.2 corrado work, one of the biggest problems was the fuel tank. It's like nothing will fit, as it needs to be contoured. My guess is that this might be the show stopper. Back to 1.9 on its own. Definitely not the 085 box though. I suspect that that little bucket of cogs is only rated to about 100hp which is why so many let go. Still in planning stage...

All the lights flickering is the alternator usually.... Regulator failing.

I've been looking at various engineering drawings of the 1.7 and 1.9 SDI engines and realised that they are identical other than crankshaft, pistons and injectors. Cam's occasionally are different, but not usually from what I've found. It got me thinking... Would a PDI 1.9 fit? The engine definitely would, but what about the gearbox? Is the gearbox for the 130 lump any bigger than the box for the 1.7 SDI? Has anyone ever seen them side by side? I'm guessing that the half shafts could be reused, perhaps maybe changing the inner CV joints so flanges mate up correctly. It would be possible to have a perfect stealth car with a chipped PDI 130 or even a 150 to 180HP. That would probably be too much power though for the little car to take. In granny mode, you could drive around with the suspension up to normal ride height. Then if you wanted, you could set the car to hunker down and then enable 'boost'.... I don't think it'd be that difficult a project. The hardest bit would be the wiring to the 1.9 lump. I'm sure someone must have done it already. I know loads of Mk4 Golf SDIs have been converted 'on the quiet' with great success to 180.

Ok, I've been thinking about all the basics first... Oil level (not enough) Oil filter (blocked?) Sump strainer (clogged?) Oil pump (worn out- but symptoms would go away at higher revs/cold engine) Pressure relief valve (stuck open) Serious seal/gasket failure (so all the oil pours back into the sump) Sensor (weak spring behind the diaphram) Casting web crack inside block or head (would be obvious I think) Electrical fault (making oil light go on- check sensor with a meter) anything else???? anyone?

When you lower a Lupo, how do you deal with the rear brake compensator? Dumb question, but if it 'thinks' the back of the car is fully loaded, it'll affect the braking (a lot).

Yeah would like to see a pic or two.... What sort of control gear do you have for it, and do you use a fluid splitter feed from the power steering pump? It's the same fluid which makes life easier. Also for the front shocks, did you use the same strut bearings?

It happens because the oil gets runny when hot, so the pump has to work harder to achieve the same pressure. Then the sensor clicks on, telling you that the pressure is low. It is because the engine is worn. If you use a thicker grade of oil, like 10-40 and semi synthetic (not pure synthetic), it'll probably stop happening. Also check your oil level!

That's really simple. Gotcha. Ok, so just need a simple servo valve block (ex bobcat), switches, wiring, 4 small rams and some plumbing. Easy. So why's it cost so much? i guess the same could be done using air- like bits off a landrover or other thing with air adjustable suspension. The most difficult bit is simply making a 'thing' to join the top of each lupo shock to the base of a ram. And a ram to lupo bracket (tube?). I shall search... Something like this but bigger: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181557039516 cheers

I'm interested in a late SDI for a spin in my golf... Only adding to 'my collection' that's going in my barn. Me thinks that in about 10 years the Lupo GTi will be a classic. Get a good one now, store it and triple your money And you can drive it when the weather's nice. So why am I getting a SDI? I like basic stuff sometimes (like a mk1 polo). No turbine thank you very much.

I recently helped a friend out looking at a Mk2 Golf, described as immaculate. Er, no it wasn't. He bought it on Ebay for £3700 and the thing had so much body filler on it, I can't believe that it didn't snap in two. And talking about brake lines- how it got through an MOT I'll never know. Ok, so I know some 'friendly' test places too.... Needless to say, he rejected it, but was slammed by the seller on Ebay feedback- so much so that Ebay had to get involved and told him to go away after suspending his account. On the subject of checking cars out- If anyone is in the Leicester area and knows Lupos inside out, I need to check a SDI over sometime this/next week, with prospect of buying it... There's a beer or something in it Also if anyone needs a VW 'expert' eye (I hate using that expression, as there's no such thing as an expert!), in the M4 & Reading area, let me know and I'll come down and help you have a look. The more Lupos I look at the better! PM me.

I have access to engineering workshops for all this stuff, so that is easy... Thanks for the info on Rayvern's. I can't find any info on which shocks they use. To power the hydraulics, you can use a standard power steering pump, with a high pressure accumulator tank for the sudden change in volume- if you need it (if you want to make your car bunny hop). For air systems, you can use a vane driven ac compressor with an oil separator. But again, I just can't find small shocks anywhere. Loads of american big stuff. No diddy lupo suspension parts (or similar).

yeah. But seriously, if I set myself a budget of 6k for all the mods, I think 3k should cover the suspension. But what is better? Air or hydro? Isn't hyrdo a lot more hassle because of the pressures? And you need a mega pump somewhere. Air you can use a small compressor and simple tubing similar to what's used as a tyre inflator thing. Both are noisy though. The closest kit I can find is for a Mk5 Golf. But since Polo's are the big twin, I wonder if someone in germany I know knows of such a thing...? Any UK tuning companies offering any kits? I've also been looking at wheels. There are some really good one's out there from looking at the photos thread. Some me thinks really don't look right though, but I guess it's all a question of taste. So far the ideas are as follows: based on a 1.7 SDI- been thinking of electric blue or bogey green as a base car as I've just looked at that one in Wales on offer at the mo. 1.9 PDI 130 conversion or turbine. (130 is more than enough). stainless exhaust- no cat- out to centre rear GTi back bumper- colour coded of course. front bumper all frenched and colour coded. add rear Gti spoiler. adjustable lowering kit with adjustable shocks (no need to uncomfortable after all). tints wheels sill 'skirts', but not sure which sort as there are 3 that I've found. decent wifi connected ICE head unit with blue tooth and USB. boot light (of course!) maybe reversing sensors AC if I can find one somewhere. heated windscreen if it exists not sure about the headlights yet. add OEM mudflaps if I can find them OEM satnav??? Has anyone ever seen it? does a cargo tray exist? mats. Keep everything else stock. There was never 4WD polo was there? I'm sure there's space for a haldex unit....

I was thinking that the usual way to lower is either coil overs, short coils, modding the shocks or what? Is there a kit available (small enough) that has an electrically adjustable ride height controller, like on classic hot rods. I think I'd like to have a setting that when I park, I could completely ground it.....

This is really good info that I cannot find elseware. Many thanks