mk2

Some pics for added interest...

Some pics as promised... I have got to say that the engine will have to run better once I've done the mods. I mean, just look at all the cr@p that bungs up the inlet. Any restriction on flow will not be noticed and the computer will still supply the same amount of fuel per cycle as if it is running clear. So the exhaust gas will always be sooty. Running rich. I have no words... Economy should be better, power better, emissions better. The oil wont need changing as often. The cylinder bores will stay cleaner. In addition to the blocking off of the EGR ducts, I've already diverted the blowby gasses down on to the road below the car. I'll report back if it makes any difference when it's all back together again.

This afternoon I started... I ended up removing the inlet manifold in the end as I came to the conclusion that that would be the easiest way to do it. Now clean again. No trace of carbon buildup now. First clean with parrafin/kerosene then finish with cellulose thinners. Thinners are excellent at cleaning off diesel deposits by the way! And once clean and on the bench it became clear how the design really has been messed up by the emissions team at VW. Under the tumpet bases there are little oil drains (for when the plenum fills up with oil), which also messes up the sensitive air flow. So now my plan is to fill those gaps with high temp silicone (as used for gaskets) and smooth everything off. Also insetad of fitting a blanking plate to the EGR, I'm going to plug each individual gas duct that joins on to the exhaust gas feed gallery. How I'm going to do that is yet to be decided. I was thinking of either tapping the holes and filling them with bolts, which I could die grind off later (to not affect the air flow), or machine up some ali plugs (same diameter as the holes) and then simply wedge them in and grind off later. I'm tempted to go down the ali rod route as it's probably easier.... I'll take some pics in the morning.

Thanks FKA daood. Yeah the stuff is quite dry. Vacuum cleaner.... Mmmm there's an idea. I guess i could vacuum and scrape at the same time. I could do it with both valves open, so any airflow (and gunge) would simply be sucked through. I'll get the camera out before starting work.

OMG. I now completely get why people block off the EGR valve. I'll have to post some pics for you to believe what I'm seeing. A-maz-ing. The base of the inlet trumpets are so clogged I'd say that the diameter of the air flow duct is only about 10mm instead of 30. Who knows how bad the back of the inlet valves are. I know that the inlet ducts (leading to the inlet valves) are really bady clogged with soot. Hard gritty material it is. I thought that it may have something to do with the blow-by gasses, but there isn't that much oil residue in the back of the plenum chamber. I'll be bunging that up for sure and adding an open air vent. Looking at the way the gasses flow in this head, I think adding short ducting tubes into the inlet manifold will be more beneficial than a blanking plate at the end of the exhaust gas gallery. Having that gallery at the base of the trumpet completely defeats the purpose of the resonant air flow. I reckon EGR on this head is an afterthought. I need to figure out how to very carefully scrape out the soot from the inlet ducts, without too much going into the cylinders. Any suggestions welcome!

I thought that might be the case... I looked in Etka, and it didn't show up in the right combination there either. I suppose it's because there simply isn't enough space for a compressor. But I suppose it could go right above everything, just where the fuel hoses are, but how the belt would need to be routed I have no idea. I'll have to get one of my spare compressors out and have a play to see what size would fit. It could go where the alternator is, but then I'd have to move the alternator. mmmm tricky. There's lots of places a mounting cradle could be bolted on though, which makes it 'doable'.

Just have a new SDI arrival I'm working on for the next few months.... But thanks for the offer!

I have to add my pennies worth to the HID vs Blue tinted halogens debate... Yes, instead of an Argon/Chlorine/Iodine gas mix around the tungstan filament they use Xenon gas which is another 'noble' or inert gas to protect the filament from burning out. But, and this is my biggest concern about why people 'think' they are better- they actually give out LESS light than regular halogen bulbs. By partly filtering out the red and green light spectrum, you end up with more heat and reduced light. If it's looks you want then that's ok, but if you want 'really' bright lights to help you see in the middle of a rainy wet winter night, I'd go for standard Osram halogens every time. It is possible to buy super bright halogen bulbs, which simply have a higher wattage (although not completely road legal - they're too bright). Most wiring looms can take it no problem. Like these: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDUwWDMzNA==/z/J5UAAOSwosFUWAkW/$_12.JPG

If you buy a nice GTi Lupo now, store it, in 15 years it'll be worth more than you paid for it. I'm sure they'll be considered classics... 24V VR6 Urgh (sorry!). I don't know a single one that didn't have design problems. Even the latest 3.6FSI has problems with the inlet valves clogging up after about 80k. Not a few. Every single engine produced. The problem is that the engineers forgot that breather fumes are sticky. Add some heat and the 'particles' stick to the back of the inlet valves. No fuel wash to clean them... Every FSI with direct injection. Huge oversight. And the FSI has fuel pump problems with that little cam driven pump which bungs the pressure up to 120PSI. The older 2.8 and 3.2 had hot spots (they needed an electric pump to keep circulating the coolant after switch off, otherwise the head would warp). And corrosion on the 2.9 head... But when new, they were very nice. Oh, and the FSI concept is a big con. What do you have planned for a Rallye? An old quattro if you can find one? Or how about a MK2 Golf countryman or 4WD version. But you'd want to change the viscous coupling to something a bit beefier for fun.

Not sure where to post this but if you need any bits cheap, I was just emailed a code "NOVE33". 33% off everything till Sunday night. AND free delivery to your door. But GSF can be expensive for some items so check Ebay or regular parts places first. Handy for me as I needed a SDI water pump today. £15 delivered to my door...

I have worked on many cars and I have to say that the Lupo SDI has got to be up there as one of the most difficult CAM belt changes I have ever done. I now get why on Lupo ads, they say "cam belt changed". Yup. I think dropping the engine/box out might be quicker next time. I've now been battling for about two hours. Everything is off except the accessory belt pulley (on the crank), which is refusing to come off. Am I right in saying you only need to remove the 4 bolts? Don't touch the middle one? I don't want to use a puller (plus I don't think there's enough room to get in there anyway), because it's made of alloy and I'd probably bend it. I have a feeling that after 12 years from new, neither belt has ever been changed. The 'fan' belt almost crumbled in my fingers once it was off (easy job). While everything is out, I might do the water pump at the same time, as the bearings have a slight amount of play. Peace of mind I guess down the line.

It'll be Lupo SDI soon (now driving) and the Mk2 will be in the shed for work... And maybe a light respray.

Kind of a side topic, but is the 'basic' air con system the same as is fitted to the polo? I'd like fit it to my sdi... It'll make it even slower! I wonder if AC was an option on the sdi, as you need the compressor bracket. That's probably the hardest thing on a retrofit.

Thanks for the good advice and stock look ups for me... This forum is great! I'll use silicone oil as it doesn't affect any waxes or plastics for the track/glass channel. Yes, I've decided to use the alternative method. I have a piece of old tablecloth (sealed vinyl) and some gutter glue. Also I've conjoured this rather good way of holding the clips in place. A section of 15mm Hep2o pipe I had hanging about.... secure and flexible......... Wil post some pics when done.

Door leak fix quest is continuing... I need two of these clips: One for each side. Not clever design. They're made of what looks like Nylon. Nylon doesn't like organic oily compounds on it- and guess what the inside of the door has been sprayed with anti rust wax. Not good combo. Makes for a brittle clip. Snap! (but it wasn't me gov. Honest!) this is the seal that is also needed (4 actually):

Sounds like the complete opposite of running on LPG... I had a play with that a few years back too, and it works really well once warmed up. The engine oil gets runnier and runnier, and the wierdest thing is that the oil never ever goes black. There is no soot generated, as the fuel is in a gaseous form and mixes really well, for a good clean and even burn. The valves get knackerd quick though. Thanks Skezza

Leaking?!? Er, I think Niagara falls would summarise it quite well. The foam pieces are completely missing in some places. This morning i was about to do some mechanical work to it, just to get it going properly, and i noticed loads of condensation on all the windows. Instantly came to the conclusion that there must be a leak. Used to them with my mk2... Carpet is soaked, but stangely no smell. It was kept garaged up till I bought it. All out. I just need that wierd clip that clamps the window cables to the inside door panel plus a shed load of panel clips... Ebay I think for them. Lots of silicone lube and back together again. Yeah thanks for the suggestion to seal it. I was thinking along the same lines. Can't use silicone glue, as it peels off. It'll have to be gutter sealant or something similar.

Any suggestions what is the best way to proceed? Obviously all the door clips will need replacing- Blue tack doesn't cut the mustard. And, er, I think those weather seals will also need doing, but should I go OEM from the stealers or just use some plastic sheet? Clearly some 'mechanic' had no idea what those little sheets of foam are for... Grrr. Also the clips that hold the window cables in place have also popped... I bet they're expensive. I thought it was a bit breezy in the car while driving it home those 180 miles. Anything else I could do while everything is in pieces?

I wonder what causes it. Any ideas? It doesn't happen with Peanut oil.

I have 8 pics

I've played with veg oil (SVO) before and after long usage the result is you end up paying for lots of new parts. The problem is that the glycerol and fatty acids hydrogenate (turn to a stiff brown plastic like material), when the fuel gets really hot. The engine runs fine on SVO for a while, but the seals and compression pumps start to either stick or leak after a couple of years. This is especually true with canola, sunflower, rape seed and general veg oil. Peanut (groundnut) oil is completely different though. Then it's a case of complete dismantling all of the components ot replacing them. Although adding heating oil up to about 15% did help... Diesters (where them glycerols have been removed) are great, but you end up paying almost the same as regular diesel. And you don't have the advantage of the added 'detergents' giving you a clean burn.

After 2 hours very close scrutiny- The bad news: Very slight rust in one of the roof channels. Electric windows are not brilliant. Near side door seal doesn't touch perfectly at the top. Only one key. No servicing for about 12 months- Lots needs doing. Awful tyres (some chinese cr@p). Remote central locking intermittent. Very slight rust around rear wheel arches. A couple of very light scuffs to front and rear bumper- but they're going anyway. Alloys have been kerbed (new ones or renovate????) The good news: New pedal box. Gearbox is sweet. Doors, hinges and locks are as new. Interior as new (seriously!). New exhaust. Engine runs like new- very very smooth. Economy excellent- just did about 80MPG at 60 the whole way home. No modifications anywhere (that I can see). 60k miles. £2k Now I need to spend some money on lots of mods... Service stuff first though. SORN till then. I'll post some pics of various items of interest as they are now, just purchased. Now which body kit were people recommending? Some just don't fit, and some go straight onto the mountings.

CV joint? Diff? Power steering servo valve (in the rack)? Exhaust rattle?

Never done one of these on a Lupo, but if it's anything like other Vee dubs, you need to make sure that the bolt centre pivot runs under instead of over the centre. God it's really hard to describe. One way, tightening it will tighten the belt, the other way will loosen it. It's an eccentric cam type arrangement, where the centre of the cam is the pivot. You know you have it the right way round if you have it only loosely tightened it gets looser (is that a word) when you apply more tensioning force on the belt. If it gets tighter, you need to rotate the cam about 300 degrees so it goes from below. Sounds like it's ok now though, so leave it alone!. But it shouldn't run right up against the edge. The belt should fit right in the middle of the pulley. The tooth face of the pulley is curved so that it forces the belt to run along the centre line (like old steam engine belts)...

I don't think they have DMFs. Could the vibration be a misfire? (misinjection...)