mk2
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Posts posted by mk2
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Yeah, just go for it. You keep existing ecu, but use resistors to make the ecu think ignition side is still there. = no codes.
fit it, tweek timing. Use a knock sensor if you can. Sorted.
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35 minutes ago, Rich said:
Start out looking at adding a turbo to any na engine and then you have the knowledge which you can then apply to anything.
Superchargers are easier. Less metalwork. No nasty exhausts to mess with.
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Two screws... Mmmm. Easier than an air filter.
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Ok, I'll get a few and split the shipping costs... what else is worth thinking about?
just bought a german passenger seat fabric, as mine was getting a bit tatty (driver's seat here). (30 euros)
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Yeah there's one in N germany right now 88k km. drives perfectly. they just want rid of for 300 euros. No TUV. Corrosion on drive shafts, rear beam, exhaust and coils. Yeah. Big deal...
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Ok, i get it. Not noticed the subtle difference at the join between the wing and the bumper before. Seems like too much work for the mo to change everything. I do like the 3L front grille though.
I'll swap just the steering wheel assembly then. I might get a couple from germany. Can you believe they only go for about 15 euros plus 12 euros shipping. I don't get why in germany they scrap what we'd generally class as reasonably good nick motors. I mean come on, surface rust on a rear beam or springs, and light corrosion on brake lines and drive shafts... that isn't dangerous. A slightly worn door hinge. Stuck electric windows? TUV failures?
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Nah, the copper open ring mounting to the neg terminal. When you tighten up the bolt that clamps it, it strains the edge causing the plastic to get a hairline crack. Then moisture and salt spray get in there causing an electrolytic reaction between the copper and the aluminium. (Like how a sacrificial anode works on a steel hulled ship). The ali corrodes away and separates from the copper. Open circuit. Fail. Game over.
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What's happening to the black lupo?
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Andrew my alternator was different in the end. It was a bosch one with an oval plug. Your's is square i think.
All fixed. I've taken some pics. There's a design flaw in the regulator which in time will cause every unit to fail.
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Can't you just fill the indicator holes then use a 3L grille? Never seen one for real, so might be a dumb question...
wings are different. Amazing. Material yes (ali instead of steel i think?), but shape...?!
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Kinda misleading title, but trying to keep it short.
i want to fit a 3L steering wheel and front 'grille' / indicators to my SDI. I was looking for a Gti wheel, but they're hens teeth because my poverty spec wheel is very rough. I also have a small crack in my front grille that has been annoying me for ages.
Anyone know if the stock 3L steering wheel and airbag assembly (basically a complete stering wheel ) is a straight swap to a regular SDI? Same spline? Same mounting back boss? Same airbag connection? Same clearance to steering column housing?
Same question for the front grille and indicators. Does that go straight on? Are the indicator mounts the same? Are the light bulb sockets/connections the same? Do the little plastic locating tabs fit and are they in the same positions...?
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What's it for?
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Looks like a breather vapour separator, but not sure as i haven't worked on this model... @Rich what d'ya reckon?
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There was a recall for cracked vacuum brake pipe ends... across the entire vdub range around '99 era i think (found out a year ago). If air is being sucked in elsewhere, a map/maf sensor will give a correct reading, but obviously wrong....
on a mk2 i once had a misfire, but at idle only. Drove me nuts. Ran sweet as most of the time. The vacuum pipe to the brakes was on cyl 4 inlet duct. No problem. But in this case the short rubber hose joining the vacuum pipe to the manifold had a tiny almost invisible split. This allowed air in, which dliuted down the mixture to cyl 4. So no. 4 misfired because there wasn't enough fuel in the mix which entered the cylinder. Too lean..... but once the manifold pressure rose, under load, the tiny amount of air made no difference, since 99% of the mix came from the carb. All the symptoms suggested headgasket failure, leaky exhaust valve or a hot running spark plug (it was paler than the others).
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Not 100% sure, but i think it locks 61 in place....
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3 hours ago, Andrew1971 said:
Hi All
I managed to get my alternator off with out to much trouble. the bolt just cleared the chassis. BUT for me it was easy cos i have no front end on 😀
Andrew
Pic of engine minus alternator?
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Yeah. Everything gimbals around 44.
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Punctuation helps... but i think you mean the linkage is loose?
oh, and welcome to club lupo!
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Just bought the passenger seat from a german car... should renew my interior nicely. Thanks, but not needed
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Holy thread resurrection!
but useful.
Got a part number at tps?
£22 for complete lower hinge from vdubs. Not primed. Just bare steel, covered in oil/rust preventer.
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About 1/3 should be right. Maybe a bit more if down london way. Ah, unless that's the vdub stealers price?
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8 hours ago, ravensthorne said:
Mk2
I hope you're able to get the regulator off without the headache of removing the alternator. If not, I hope you suss out a simpler way of removing the whole thing. My method of raising/dropping the engine was necessary (in my mind at least) as one of the alternator bolts cannot be fully removed because the chassis leg is right behind it.
If you figure out a better way, let me know.
In my slam panel, next to the rad, there's a big hole, which looks like it's just the right size to pass the alternator through. But it still means most of the front of the car has to come off. Not sure if removing it from the front or behind makes much difference. Still looks like a right pain either way. Hopefully the new regulator will sort it so i don't need to remove it.
AFH coil pack conversion??
in Tuning
Posted
In that case, keep everything as close to standard electrically as poss.... the mechanical stuff wont worry the ecu.