mk2
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Posts posted by mk2
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3 minutes ago, Skezza said:
I'm sure I've seen kits on eBay that basically work by cutting the ignition for a second so fuel is sent through the engine but there's no spark, it's then sent straight down the exhaust pipe where a spark plug is mounted and firing and ignites the fuel. Bang/fire/pop.
It truly sounds like one of the dumbest modifications ever and I really don't get it.
Sounds like what they do at airshows... inject raw fuel (kerosene) into the exhaust to make white smoke.
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What ecu r u running? 2nd lambda will be giving wierd readings, so must be chipped already...? Mot passes emissions ok?
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Yes, it is possible to inject fuel during the wrong period, ignite it late, so it burns in the exhaust. Damages exhaust valves. Need to get rid of the cat. Don't do it...
show us some pics of your car
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Welcome to club lupo! Pop and bang. Mmmm. Seriously?!
a car that runs perfectly, generating maximum power runs very very smoothly. Every single molecule of fuel burns to make pressure to push those pistons down. Any popping or banging outside the cylinders does nothing but waste fuel (and power).
You really really dont want that...
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Yeah, i dont believe the pistons story... shoddy work me thinks. Wrong pistons wouldn't cause that effect anyway. Something in the head "could"....
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Hey Skezz, there's a nice moss green SDI 'S' on gumtree at the mo. Nearer to you than me....
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I run the fuchs semi synth 10W40 in my diesels and fully synth 5W30 in my petrol/lpg cars. Opie oil bulk special deals every few years. A bit of a waste really as i change about every 7k. Almost as clean coming out as it goes in.
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If you change your oil every week or 3000 miles, any cheap stuff will do. Oil type is important when you do lots of start stop journeys or leave it for 20,000 miles before a change...
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Nice looking motor... 160k miles is a bit high though. If i get a chance to have i look i will, but still nearer to everyone up north. That's a 2 1/2 h drive for me. I love that lapis blue thing that someone on here wants to rat.
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It should start in N, irrespective of brake pedal I'd've thought. Unless there's a fault with the gearshift selector. I know what you mean now, now that @RAB has elaborated....
just thought, if you have to wait an hour, it could be accumulator pressure related. Is there a pressure sensor on the 3L system?
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If anyone is going up there to get some bits, PM me...
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Welcome to CL. Which Lupo do you have? Got a pic or two...
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@Lewiss_Lupo do you have a big sticker across your back window? May have spotted you around heathrow a few weeks back...
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14 hours ago, Rich said:
Bring me something cool and it is yours.
That's a fair deal.
He wants your old gearbox. I want your old gearbox...
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31 minutes ago, QU1N Y said:
Gearbox is in and doing 80 @ 3000rpm! 😀 Glad it was the right box..
That's really odd... the ratios are completely different. You must have an FFV box....
don't bin the old box... not just yet anyway.
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Nah, deffo Waitrose. It's the la-di-dah manner that gives it away.
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2 hours ago, Andrew1971 said:
Thank you all for replying.
Got steering wheel off I was going gently more force was needed.
Passenger air bag is off as is the dashboard. It will be easier next time
Now I know how to do it.
Andrew
Pics with dash out?
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From looking at the failure mode on them, the gears and shafts are fine. The housing also can take the torque.
It's the bearings that give up as they're just teeny weeny little things. Usually caused by yellow metal in the oil getting trapped in the bearing rollers, causing pitting, then failure.
Or leaky input selector shaft seal, low oil level, causing needle roller bearing cage inside gear 5 melting (made of plastic).
Or syncros being forced as clutch not being fully disengaged- caused by broken pedal box (the most common reason). Lots of metal in the oil leading to bearing failure. Again.
The 085 box is based on tried and tested old mk1/mk2 golf design. Only thing that changed is the oil, to bring down the friction. So they used thinner oil. Not good. Good for economy, but not endurance.
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2 hours ago, battlebus said:
Off to search for a crank now too
Be cheaper to swap the entire engine after bearings and headgasket etc...
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Don't drive it... at all. get it sorted now or it'll cost a lot more later...
Might just be the synchro clutch cones have become glazed. You still need to strip and rebuild it though. Worth it if you plan on keeping the car.
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Dunno if you noticed, but on the back of the block is marked 1.9... Our little 1.7 AKU SDI is in fact a 1.9 ready to go- just on a short throw crank. Pull engine out and directly transplant the 1.9 ASV turbo in. It fits like it's made for it. Afternoon job when properly planned. Then just the wiring and you're away... You can chip the ASV to 133hp.
yes the box is weak, but if rebuilt for £100 every 30k, not a problem. CV joints will also go sooner, but they're only £35 a pair.
I've been mulling over the exact same project. Time is lacking sadly.
vw lupo pop and bang
in Volkswagen Lupo
Posted
Engine must be running sweet and in good condition. No cat and still passes mot, is excellent!