mk2
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Posts posted by mk2
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If you fire them on the in stroke (lean), then fire again about 20 degrees after TDC (once ignited), you get a double kick. It was the original concept behind FSI. Lots more torque... The hardest thing to manage is the common rail high pressure fuel pump.
Yeah with a supercharger you can get about 550. Trouble is at high revs you run out of injector time.
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Did you keep the 60V injectors on your R36 conversion?
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Give the diff flanges (inner cv joints, gearbox side) a good shake. There should be no movement at all.
Or it could be wheel bearings, but it'd be obvious which one when turning.
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Yay! Should've waited 30 seconds. A momentus event.
I always remember exactly where i was when it happened to each of my cars.
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Totally different. Easier to swap car.
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What reading did you get? Over 2.5 or over 0.9? Might just be the EGR valve...
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Drill a socket sized hole in the bumper underneath, to allow easy access to one of the filter box bolts. You'll see which when you do it. You can bend it out of the way, but as the plastic is getting older, they have a tendancy to snap. If you don't like the idea of vandalising your car, use a hot air blower (hair dryer) to warm the plastic first. Don't overtighten when reassembling
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Yeah, i've done it... i have a spare pair of 'lenses' which I refurbed ages ago just sitting in a box.
The trick to separating them is heat. But not enough to damage anything. Bung the whole headlamp unit in an oven at 60-80c then remove and separate the lens from the chassis. The butyl rubber sealant melts like cheese with long strings. Make sure everything is spotlessly clean to start with or the black sticky stuff acts like a magnet.
Once apart absolutely don't let anything touch the mirroring. You can clean them, but you first need to get the dust off by first spraying with a detergent like washing liquid (for clothes), diluted. Leave for a few minutes, rinse with more detergent, then 'very' lightly wipe the surface with clean fingers, keeping lots of detergent around. Then rinse well. Then rinse again thoroughly with deionised water and dry with a hair dryer.
Back in the oven to soften the butyl sealant then simply press together again until the clips snap in place. Sorted.
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Welcome to club lupo!
yeah, we used to have decent buyers guide, but it accidentally got deleted...
quite a few people on here with sports'. All lupos have similar issues, but not sure on the specifics just for a sport edition.
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£200-300? Rough interior, dodgy bodywork and older tax bracket doesn't help to be fair.
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Ah.... I think I get it now. So am i right in understanding that what I think has happened is: as the reduced travel, lowered suspension bottoms out occasionally (like when you hit a speed bump or do a hard landing after jumping 21 double decker buses), the top of the shock or the completely compressed coil spring hammers the strut bearing. The bearing then pushes (hammers) the lower edge of the rubber bush. The rubber bush and sleeve compresses completely, then smacking hard against the suspension tower. Tower stronger than suspension component wins. So I guess there is no bump stop in place? Must be hard suspension...
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Any idea what caused it? Did the strut retaining nut that sits in the top dish come off or something? I can't think what would cause it to fail like that.
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4 hours ago, BioTriffid said:
Hi guys
I need to know the part number to this bit or links to any thanks
Kieran
OMG! You must have noticed this deteriorating well before it finally popped. Never seen one this bad before... wow. Replace both sides.
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£30 for about an hour's work is very reasonable! Nice one.
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I think the windscreen pillar bit will be ok, but probably needs a plate attaching to the pillar near the top. I also think it'll need another web across the middle of the 'X'. Above and below.
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CV joint? If gearbox, you'd get a whining usually. If bearing, it gets louder as you go faster.
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I'd love to know @Rich's sales pitch.... can't believe how much rust there is on that car, and it's three years newer than mine. But wouldn't take long to swap the wings and driver's seat. Swapping the driver's seat fabric is easy enough to like new condition by getting the passenger seat material from a German car breakers (ebay germany). It'll be a cracking little motor for someone with a little bit of work. SDI's are probably as desirable as GTis (but I would say that...!).
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Yeah was thinking the same. I guess its the regs? What do they say regarding fuel tanks now? I know there was a requirement a couple of years ago for a small double lined thing that could be kept inside the passenger / driver compartment. Has that changed?
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Yeah, but it's usually the ball joints on the ends of the track rods that go... water ingress. Corrosion. Movement. Friction. Lube displaced. Fail. Game over. So many many vdubs have these problems. Do not understand why....
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Is that how it's concentrated? Same for all maple syrup?
Surely boiling off the water component will also remove a lot of flavour? Can't you vacuum off the water part, lowering the temp to a cold boil? But i'd guess you still need to pasteurise the syrup somehow...
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Nice. You've even left the speakers in
what's that thing on top of the instrument cluster?
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If you use VCDS, check the individual injector quantities at idle. They should be all about the same. It is possible you have a blocked injector or even a fault relating to EGR.
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19 minutes ago, Rich said:
You would need a Lupo first.
TBH, my thinking too...
Honda B16 Engine Swap
in Volkswagen Lupo
Posted
Sounds a bit like project miatabusa... now that was an awesome project. Probably the best engine ever made mated to a small car. Lots of engineering for you geeks if you haven't heard about it.