mk2
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Posts posted by mk2
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Didn't realise TT bushes are shorter... Aren't golf (R32) types solid and maybe a bit bigger? There's potentially a fair amount of stress on the central sleeve which is why there's the little C shaped slot to firmly locate them. All that jiggling will eventually loosen the bolt if there's sideways motion on it.
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You're meant to simply bend the lower edge back up again if there's a gap. The central metal sleeve wants to be solidly locked in there... the bolt is not enough on its own.
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9 hours ago, oprn said:
The snow builds up inside the rims then part of it breaks off and the car shakes like a paint mixer
Something I'd have never ever thought of.... interesting design problem. Must be a lot of snow build up. A lot!
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Yeah, just don't have the time right now. Maybe in about 2 months. Even my 2 SDIs are being neglected...
Seriously, get it fixed, make the investment and you'll easily sell it on once mot'd and CLEAN! You'll 100% get the money back. With mot and clean you should easily get around £750 for it. They are in high demand, because the £30 tax rated Lupo/Arosa SDI is probably the most inexpensive car to operate/own on uk roads right now. The guy i know charges £40 for a very thorough interior valet. Looks like new afterwards. Would add at least £200 of value....
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16 minutes ago, danno said:
@mk2 there’s a pre £30 tax lupo sdi needing a clutch and a few things in Bath for £150 on scumtree.
That's true. Forgot to add £30 tax ideally... £240 road tax for an SDI is nuts. Mind you i pay that for my carpy mk4. SORNed....
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1 hour ago, danno said:
@mk2 how far are you from Bath?
About hour and 3/4 ish. I'm looking for a fantasia green, poverty spec. Don't care about milage, just a good shell and interior. Although an Arosa SDI would be awesome.
the only 'real' mot fail is leaky shocks. Dust covers wont generally cause a fail unless there's excessive movement. The parts woukd be maybe 50-60 quid. 2 shocks, two bump stops, two ball joints. Easy work too. 2h labour woukd do it. There's a place in East Hagbourne that'd probably fix it fir you for a 'genuine' price if you supply the bits. Maybe £100?
if it can wait, i could do it for you... too busy at the mo. Happy to help out a fellow CL member.
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How much? 20 minutes from me
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Yeah, you're right. They are big heavy springs...
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Seriously, our injectors don't like the glycerols... old style injectors no problem. The problem is the glycerols hydrogenate and then go hard like plastic inside the nozzles. If you can stop the engine on diesel, but run on SVO that's fine. No veggie oil sitting in a hot injector getting gently poached, then cooling down slowly. But blend with kerosene does work, but then you need to add some 2 stroke oil to get the lubricity numbers back up or the pump injector cam rollers will wear.
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Me too...
just about every post 98 vdub has this happening. Never figured out where they go back, but has never been a problem without them.
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You're just reaching the power limit... normal.
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Hi, welcome to club lupo.
All electronic controlled engines have rev limiters, which stop the components being stressed beyond their design limit. Some engines have clever variable rev limiters (lower limits when engine is cold scenario for example). No point removing it unless you change mechanical stuff. At wide open throttle, the speed it takes to burn the mix will be slower than the revs. So you reach a point when the mix wont have enough time to burn so power drops at high revs. The mix simply burns as it leaves the cylinder. If the compression ratio is increased or cylinder size reduced then it's worth upping the revs. Google V8 2L engines, or high cylinder count low capacity engines...
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Yeah, just give it a tap, but dont go mad or the earth electrode falls off into the engine.... no one wants a bit of metal bouncing around in a cylinder. Do a test and see how big a gap the spark can jump- about 30mm on a dry day (screwdriver to block). But the compressed fuel air mix does block the spark to an extent, so i generally max out at 2mm even with a high compression engine.
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Any news on this @MattyB, or do we need to rewrite the buyers guide all over again? There was some really good info in there, nicely collated together by a few of us members.
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It's a 1.9 block, retro fitted with short stroke crank to displace 1.7L. A very strong, reliable engine. Basically the same unit as in the US/canada fitted to golfs/jettas, 1.9 and with a turbo.
hows your little 'un running in the depths of a canadian winter? I can't imagine it... !
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Never ever worked on a fox... but if like a regular dub, run the cable up the 'A' pillar and connect it to the ign on circuit behind the light switch. Both earth and power is there ready for you
(brown and colour with stripe).
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Yeah, i'd like to know too...
may help others in future
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Momentum 99 has the same stuff in as redex apparently (according to the people i know at castrol/bp research).
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Yeah sounds like it was the main injector/loom power feed... did they show you where the fault was? I bet it was the plug being loose or something around that.
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All the dub shows I've been to in the last few years have gone that way... shame really. I think people are just too scared to try their hand at old stuff. Dunno why cos it's so much easier to fix 'em. Rust perhaps? Most rust is fixable.
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Plug gap isn't critical. Anything from 0.6 - 2mm will work. Guaranteed. Its all a myth....
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Is there a way to isolate if it's the convenience centre, the leccy window mech/contoller or switches? I always used the hold the key in the door lock in the open door position, till all the windows start going down. Not sure if the same on Lupos. Then you know if the window mech and convenience centre is ok....?
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In that case RAB is correct
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Skezz, isn't there an anti finger trap system with the leccy windows on Lupos? On other vdubs of that era, there are anti finger trap sensors that sense the window over current and then back off if being closed. It could be the current sensor playing games? I've not played with the window control modules on Lupos so not sure...
Vegetable Oil
in Automotive Chat
Posted
The SDI does the bare minimum a car needs to do. It gets you from A-B with minimum fuss, very very cheaply and in 'relative' comfort. And will keep going and going and going..... I have two.