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mk2

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Posts posted by mk2

  1. That's exactly what I did with my black SDI. When stripped there was nothing wrong with it except the reverse gear had been slightly abused. Cleaned magnet.  All like new again. i even flushed it before refilling with decent oil!

  2. Mine received too. Can't figure out if they were painted or enamelled. But they're great! Making the stamping tool to press out the blanks was probably the most expensive bit I'd guess? And the colouring has got to have been done by hand. i can't imagine any machine being that accurate. I like my chrome one BTW... :)

     

  3. The sensor to the best of my knowledge is a semiconductor accelerometer, usually manufactured by Analog Devices. So think playstation controller sensor that can tell which way you're moving it... they are very tough little buggers. Surprisingly accurate too. But the way the crash sensor works is not by G-force. They actually 'listen' to the shock waves that are generated as the vehicle crumples. The activation pulse is only generated by the controller when it recognises an appropriate shape or waveform. The waveforms are characterised during trial crumples... Then a DSP chip does the recognition. It's a fair bit more complex than a simple g sensor.

  4. Dunno if the box from a mk2 golf syncro will fit. Other than that, there'll be a lot of fabrication and welding... the biggest problem as always is fuel tank. The rear suspension will need to be fab'ed. modded propshaft. Modded exhaust (obviously). Modded front half shafts. Modded gearbox mounting. Different steering rack probably.

    great project though. I also was thinking of making a VW Lupo Country. Start with a junk car as no point wasting a decent motor.

  5. I've also heard that it's a one hit wonder... have no proof of this though. Something to do with super capacitors and charge retention once the battery has been ripped out during the crash process. The airbag still needs power even if there's no engine or battery to ignite it...  easiest is to try swapping them over to eliminate a loom fault. But like @Rich says, it's a right pain to get to. I've never needed to. Ever.

  6. I think all GTIs were built in Germany, with the other variants in Belgium? And Seat had their own Arosa thing going. No Arosa GTI I believe. Apparently Arosas rolled off the Lupo production line before the first ever Lupos were assembled- in Wolfsburg.

    I wonder how different build quality is depending on where they were made....

    All the engines were from Czech republic I think.

  7. Had a chat with someone the other day who says he used to work with VW Belgium in one of the production facilities. But not when the Lupo was rolling off the lines. So we got talking about Lupo related things.

    Apparently the UK/Ireland and Jap market cars were all made in smallish batches for only a few months at a time. Many more LHD cars were made compared to our RHD versions. He thinks that there were only 6 runs for the RHD market, the last being 2004 (one a year?!), which I find very hard to believe, as I've seen date stamps all over the place. But I can confirm that my 2003 and my 2001 SDIs must have been the same batch as the date codes are almost the same on most components.

    But it could just be that once built, they sat on a remote airfield ready to be shipped out to the next dealer. Poor stock management means you could potentially have received a car that was built maybe two years earlier.

    Anyone have any further insight? I'm sure Gtis are different.

  8. 1 hour ago, Rich said:

    Not quite as simple as spacers, then there are so many aspects.

    Just get the sump plated and stop being a pussy.

    You're not going to be the lowest Lupo ever.

    Ray's is low isn't it or am i mixing him up with some else from a few years back? Who was it who had 4 sill rubber stops that sat on the ground when the air was out?

  9. They're made of polystyrene plastic i think (or ABS, equally brittle stuff). When mine broke, i had to fibreglass the back of it, then fill the cracks and start over. Looks perfect again now. They are so easy to break in cold weather. 

  10. Welcome to CL :)

    if there is a crack (which is possible), solution is to replace the manifold. Might be able to weld it, but it'll probably crack again. Just be sure there is a crack before swapping it, as it might be further down the system. You just have to get under the car while idling and somone bungs up the tail pipe till you find it....

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